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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-02-2003, 10:46 AM   #2266
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Paperboy
Wouldnt that just make the car slower?

Hey, I never said it would make it faster! I just said it would make it look more real!
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Old 02-02-2003, 07:21 PM   #2267
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Cool 70 MPH

OK 70 mph heres your chance, 12L3, HERES WHAT YOU GET!!!!
12L3 roller, proline purple fronts, proline grey rears, 1 pr. ea front & rear proline wheels, .075 tbar new, .075 & .063 tbar used, copy of 12L3 manual, spare lower front arms, 75 tooth 48 pitch spur, 1 100 tooth 64 pitch spur, 3 ride height adjuster set, Nissan P35 GTP body (red), Futaba 9601 servo, spare new associated graphite main chassis plate, original 12L3 box. All for $150.00 CAN $s , I realize you are just getting started. A deposit will hold for ?? days and I can deliver in EDM. area.

Talk to me 70 mph.
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Old 02-02-2003, 07:30 PM   #2268
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big b read your pms i want the 12l3
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Old 02-02-2003, 08:25 PM   #2269
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Thumbs up 12L3

SOLD, mail me for details, we should be doing this on buy & sell forum.

regards Terry
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Old 02-03-2003, 08:33 AM   #2270
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Default RE: Shooter Chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
Close up of the rear pod...
How thick is the chassis??? I run on carpet and I am very intersted...I found this chassis on ebay.

How would you rate the flex in comparison to the yokomo chassis in side to side flex and front to back.
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Old 02-03-2003, 09:21 AM   #2271
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Quote:
Here is a pic of the real Bentley. My idea is that if you took some music wire, and reamed two small holes near the spoiler, and then ran the music wire through the two holes and then mounted a touring car wing on there, it would look more like the one they race in real life. The music wire could be mounted in the T bar in the rear. It may not be the greatest idea, but its an idea

For those of you who missed my idea, here it is again. Go about 5-10 or so posts up on this page and youll find the pic
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Old 02-03-2003, 10:08 AM   #2272
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Default Re: RE: Shooter Chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by senna555
How thick is the chassis??? I run on carpet and I am very intersted...I found this chassis on ebay.

How would you rate the flex in comparison to the yokomo chassis in side to side flex and front to back.
The chassis is 1.9mm thick. It is very flexible and quite comparable to the Yokomo chassis...obviously this is simply by "feel"! The car had MUCH more steering with this chassis....

By careful if you order online. Check that it is the second batch chassis. In the first batch they screwed up the chamfers on the 4-40 countersinks. It meant that the screws did not clamp up tight. To check ask if the countersinks for the small holes and the large holes (A-arms) are the same...if they are then it is a first batch chassis. Only unscrupulous dealers are selling still selling the first batch because I know there are free replacements available! I just got my new chassis and motor plate tonight!
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Old 02-03-2003, 11:16 AM   #2273
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what would you guys recommend for spares to keep in stock for a 1/12, or tuning aids. i will be running a crc carpet knife. thanks
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Old 02-03-2003, 11:26 AM   #2274
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spaz- where are u running at? i am running at Big Boys Toys in Taunton, MA. anyway i am assuming you are running an AE dynamic strut front end, if so, you should be fine, since those things are pretty tough to break, but it cant hurt to have a an extra upper arm and hingepin, as well as the caster shims. for an old style front end just get two extra arms, they are cheap, and they are not symetrical (in that you cannot use the right one on the left side). Also i would suggest maybe some different side springs, otherwise you should be fine, there isnt much that breaks on the chassis itself, normally wear and tear is on the body (espically with the lightweights) and the tires.
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Old 02-03-2003, 11:39 AM   #2275
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hey, i will be running at a local carpet track up here in maine but im still planning on coming down to taunton at the begining of march. i dont have the car yet, but it is the bloody red carpet knife and is all stock i believe. i will order all the springs and the parts you mentioned. thanks
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Old 02-03-2003, 01:55 PM   #2276
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i would suggest coming down sooner, since the carpet season will be over by then, everyone is already itching to run outdoor already, lol, if it wasnt for the group of guys going to the nat's (including myself) then i think we would be running outside sooner).

if you havent order the kit yet, then please hear out my speedmerchant rev. 3 sales pitch, lol (and no i am not a speedmerchant driver): the crc is a great car, and is actually very similar to the rev. 3, however the minor techincalities that make the rev. 3 better. 1)the way the rear supsension pivots, on the crc the adjustment to make sure its pivoting straight and not crooked is made at the center, and through tigtning 2 nuts, however on the rev. 3 its done by side links and adjusted through turnbuckles, which not only hold their setting much better, but they are also much more sensative and consistant, thus making the rear end pivot smoother and better overall. Also it comes with the old style front end which is better for carpet, and holds its settings much better, the dynamic strut front end is very inconsistant (and the castor settings are always off, and to get both sides equal you have to place the caster shims differently on each side), and is alot heavier. Also you can move the batteries so you can either have more rear grip or more steering, which is a nice option since 12th scales generally dont have much in the way of adjustments. also Big boys is the home track pretty much of speedmerchant, alot of their drivers race their weekly, including the owner, and thats not to say that if you bought a crc you wouldnt be able to get help from those guys (since they are all very nice and approachable) but also there are all of the speedmerchant parts in stock.

anyway either car you get you will be thrilled, but i just prefer the speedmerchant, and i have run and helped people with both cars, and just found the speedmerchant to handle better and be more adjustable.
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Old 02-03-2003, 02:00 PM   #2277
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Here is a pic of the real Bentley. My idea is that if you took some music wire, and reamed two small holes near the spoiler, and then ran the music wire through the two holes and then mounted a touring car wing on there, it would look more like the one they race in real life. The music wire could be mounted in the T bar in the rear. It may not be the greatest idea, but its an idea
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Old 02-03-2003, 03:09 PM   #2278
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Default 1/12

Hi I was looking into buying a 1/12 scale car i run a Tc3 now.I was looking at the trinity swichblade and AE RC10L3. Wich do u think is better? I want one that is not going to cost me over 250 bucks not including electronics.
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Old 02-03-2003, 03:15 PM   #2279
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l3 duh sorry 12L3
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Old 02-03-2003, 03:36 PM   #2280
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My Corally can be very quick at times but because it's over 5 years old the parts are worn and it can be inconsistent. I'm thinking of buying a new 12th for the next winter season (so no hurry) but I don't know what to go for. The L3 has about the same level of parts support as Corally but if the parts are mostly interchangable I might try an AE based car. Could someone please recommend a car with a 6 cell chassis that's good on carpet? and if not AE (or Corally) then the extent of AE parts compatibility. Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
Here is a pic of the real Bentley. My idea is that if you took some music wire, and reamed two small holes near the spoiler, and then ran the music wire through the two holes and then mounted a touring car wing on there, it would look more like the one they race in real life. The music wire could be mounted in the T bar in the rear. It may not be the greatest idea, but its an idea
For show it may be OK, but most people who have show cars want very realistic bodies. The wedge wing built into the Pform Bently is not on the real car so it may look a bit odd with 2 wings. Mounting the wing as you suggested would weaken the T-bar and restrict its movement, if you try this consider attaching the wire to the body, the same as oval wings
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