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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-22-2006, 10:08 AM   #22756
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I found this link- http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:12 AM   #22757
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If you're talking about Rich Chang's set-up cheat sheet he posted several months ago I think I found it--I downloaded and printed it, had it laminated and it rides in my pit box. Great info.

Cheat Sheet

Scottrik
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:15 AM   #22758
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cool
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:05 AM   #22759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
im at a 93/20 (4.65)around a 30mm rollout , 7.5 I havent tried it yet
Thanks alot.

The ratio you gave me ( 4.65 ) was for 3.5R, right ?

BTW. Merry Christmas
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:17 AM   #22760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Thanks alot.

The ratio you gave me ( 4.65 ) was for 3.5R, right ?

BTW. Merry Christmas
yes with the 3.5, merry christmas
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:24 AM   #22761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxratter
Hello guys...
I'm fairly new to running 1/12th scale...I'm looking for some advice...
I'm running a CRC 3.2R, with a monster stock motor, and stiff plastic front bumper...I'm still hitting a few boards here and there....
Last run, 3 different times after hitting a board, the motor stopped. It was seized up. I found the endbell was coming loose, and the ring inside that it screws to (the ring locks under tabs in the can) was bent, causing it to stop rotating. I took it apart and repaired it only for it to happen again and again.
Is this common? Any ideas why? Recommendations?
Any help is appreciated....
I'm also considering going brushless...which motor is best for 1/12th? 4300, 13.5? I still only have the ss esc...
Thanks
I would vote for 5800 ( equivalent to 19T stock ) or 4300 ( 27T stock ).
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:25 PM   #22762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
If you're talking about Rich Chang's set-up cheat sheet he posted several months ago I think I found it--I downloaded and printed it, had it laminated and it rides in my pit box. Great info.

Cheat Sheet

Scottrik
Thanks Again,

Alex Cortez
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Old 12-22-2006, 01:57 PM   #22763
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Default t-bar, battery brace

I saw a 12th car on here someplace that has a flat CF brace that goes across the cells (placed long ways) in the chassie eliminating the need for taping. the car still had a T-bar, so it wasn't the newer bmi kit. Any ideas?

Thanks,
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:07 PM   #22764
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I am still finding out the ins and outs of the chassis but could it have been a sp12m, that looks to have a T-bar and a battery strap
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:22 PM   #22765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acyrier
I saw a 12th car on here someplace that has a flat CF brace that goes across the cells (placed long ways) in the chassie eliminating the need for taping. the car still had a T-bar, so it wasn't the newer bmi kit. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Aaron
Doug Powell's Quad-12, was this it?
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:56 PM   #22766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I would vote for 5800 ( equivalent to 19T stock ) or 4300 ( 27T stock ).

The brushless testing that I did for ROAR in a touring car showed that the 4300 (10.5 turn) was almost identical to a 19 turn motor speed. The 5800 is considerably faster than that. Novak has the 13.5 turn motor that's much closer to stock motor speed.
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Old 12-22-2006, 03:11 PM   #22767
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Given the different torque characteristics of brushless vs brushed and the difference in weight between TC and 1/12th...I wonder if it would still test equivalent to a 19T in a 1/12th.
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Old 12-22-2006, 03:17 PM   #22768
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I am looking to buy a 1/12, I am going to get a T-Bar chassis cause they run good at sir, my question is I notice there are alot of aftermarket chassis makers, could someone give me a couple of good websites for these. I run TC alot and I have noticed the chassis dosent flex right when you use a battery strap, dose anyone have that problem with 1/12

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Old 12-22-2006, 03:34 PM   #22769
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there are alot of good upgraded T plate kits for the t bar cars.there is only 1 that i know of with a battery strap and that is the PRC quad 12.i personally dont use battery straps because 1/12th cars do tweak easily being that they dont have any structure to them but the quad 12 is not supposed to tweak the chassis from what people say that run the car.we offer a 1/12th chassis conversion for the T plate cars and we are working on a whole new car that will be a mix of link and T bar.Hyperform,CRC,IRS,and a few others make conversion kits that are also for the T bar cars and they all work well from what i have been told.here are a few pics of what we are offering.im sure the other companies can post pics also so you can get a good idea of whats out there.you will really enjoy the 1/12th class buddy.there are alot of people up here who can help you out with any questions you have.good luck.
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Old 12-22-2006, 03:36 PM   #22770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Given the different torque characteristics of brushless vs brushed and the difference in weight between TC and 1/12th...I wonder if it would still test equivalent to a 19T in a 1/12th.
Here in NorCal we have been switching over to brushless for 1/12 scale and 19t sedan and have been running mixed class of BR/BL. Lemme tell ya, it's not too close, but not a million miles apart either. The allowed motors are Novak 13.5 for stock and Novak 4300 for 19t. In stock, it is getting to where almost everybody has switched to BL including me. In 19t the BL is faster but the faster racers** tend to run this class and many run BR. But you give a BL to a lesser driver, they have a much better chance of keeping up. A BL in the hands of a top driver is a potent mix.

I consider myself a decent driver (was on TQ pace last couple times and bobbled) and I can also build pretty fast BR motors. But what I saw in 1/12 stock was guys who I would always beat hands down were running BL and flat out beating me. The increase in torque allowed them to overshoot corners and consistently make up the time just because they have gobs of torque. It didn't take long and I went and bought a BL system the next week.

Now in touring car, it's a wash. The gained torque from BL helps but then loses to the top end of a BR motor.

I think we are getting to the point where a) the adoption rate is high enough, and b)the performance variance is too great from BR to BL, that we need to split the classes. What it is doing here is forcing good BR people to plunk down big $$ for a new system and motor just to keep up and that's simply not equitable.

Aside from the commentary, I have run my new BL 13.5 twice so far and it is a blast. One thing I have noticed though is the extra torque gives a bit of an on power push so you really need to alter your setup and the way you approach corners.
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