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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-22-2006, 12:08 AM   #22741
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post your complete setup on the speed merchant thread. With club racing levels of traction, purple fronts are not generally enough, but without knowing what your setup is its hard to say weather its a lack of front traction or an over abundance of rear traction. There are alot of factors to consider.
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Old 12-22-2006, 06:20 AM   #22742
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being a newbie to 1/12th im not really sure about the gearing. i understand how to get the roll out but what sort of roll out should i be looking for. we run a medium size track.
what should i be looking for with say brushless 4.5, 7x1 8x1 etc.

thanks for any help
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Old 12-22-2006, 06:25 AM   #22743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makytc4
being a newbie to 1/12th im not really sure about the gearing. i understand how to get the roll out but what sort of roll out should i be looking for. we run a medium size track.
what should i be looking for with say brushless 4.5, 7x1 8x1 etc.

thanks for any help
your a newbie and your running mod,i tip my hat to you, up here we are only running 19t and if you ask most run a roll of about 47 to 50.in mod i would think about 39,40 i think,i don't really know.
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Old 12-22-2006, 06:25 AM   #22744
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makytc4

if your sponsored by microtech ask Keith Robertson from the shop who's a UK 12th national A finalist
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Old 12-22-2006, 06:37 AM   #22745
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fair point yeah will do. newby to 1/12th not in general. 7x1 was going treat last week not sure if gearing was right or not tho.
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:11 AM   #22746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Hi Marcos, What is the proper gearing for 1/12 ? I'm using 100T spur gears

3.5R motor = ? ----- > ( currently I'm using 100/23 = 4.35 ) its the smallest I have.
7.5R motor = ?
im at a 93/20 (4.65)around a 30mm rollout , 7.5 I havent tried it yet
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:37 AM   #22747
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Default 1/12th motor seizing help

Hello guys...
I'm fairly new to running 1/12th scale...I'm looking for some advice...
I'm running a CRC 3.2R, with a monster stock motor, and stiff plastic front bumper...I'm still hitting a few boards here and there....
Last run, 3 different times after hitting a board, the motor stopped. It was seized up. I found the endbell was coming loose, and the ring inside that it screws to (the ring locks under tabs in the can) was bent, causing it to stop rotating. I took it apart and repaired it only for it to happen again and again.
Is this common? Any ideas why? Recommendations?
Any help is appreciated....
I'm also considering going brushless...which motor is best for 1/12th? 4300, 13.5? I still only have the ss esc...
Thanks
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:39 AM   #22748
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All,

I was thinking, i have seen few setup Tip docs... but what i have not seen for 12th scale is a "must have parts" kinda of list. I can compile it, but dont have all the part numbers, maybe some of you that have the part numbers for the stuff you think are the best parts for a 12th scale, I can put it together... This may help the newer people save some money, and just get the right stuff from the get go...

Stuff like

IRS ULtralight Diff Rings -IRS2512
IRS Micro VCS Shock -IRS4040


ETC... ETC...


either PM me, or just post it here...
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:45 AM   #22749
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I have never had a stock motor do this. You may have a small crack in the ring. Try replacing the ring and don't over tighten it. I have built many monster stocks and also hit many boards. Did you try another monster stock or any other motor and did you get the same result?

Good luck
Jack
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:55 AM   #22750
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FT_TC3Racer

Try cleaning off your tires between runs. At my track (indoor carpet) the front tires pick-up a lot of sticky junk that can cake onto the tires. I use a little lighter fluid on a rag and scrub the tires (both front and rear) clean. Then I use traction compound as per instructions. When I do this, I get consistent grip through out the total 8 min run.

Keeping the tires clean allows you to better evaluate the car's setup because the car will be consistent and not require 1 - 2 minutes to come in.

Hope this helps
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Old 12-22-2006, 08:00 AM   #22751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
All,

I was thinking, i have seen few setup Tip docs... but what i have not seen for 12th scale is a "must have parts" kinda of list. I can compile it, but dont have all the part numbers, maybe some of you that have the part numbers for the stuff you think are the best parts for a 12th scale, I can put it together... This may help the newer people save some money, and just get the right stuff from the get go...

Stuff like

IRS ULtralight Diff Rings -IRS2512
IRS Micro VCS Shock -IRS4040


ETC... ETC...


either PM me, or just post it here...
I think this is a necessity for anyone new to building a 12th to know.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0
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Old 12-22-2006, 08:14 AM   #22752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT_TC3Racer
I don't know how this could be setup cause once I can turn I start catching the leaders. Dual Rate setting is about a 4 foot radius.
The dual rate setting sticks out to me. Maybe my setup is jacked but I always run about a 1.5' radius. This is on a tight carpet track so your situation might be different.
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Old 12-22-2006, 08:53 AM   #22753
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4 feet is too big, but 1.5 feet definitely sounds too small (to me). I run right in the middle at about 2.5-3 feet, but I don't like a "twitchy" car so I'm toward the bigger side.

Also, the CRC chassis prep info is good, though of late I've been following Mark Payne's advice and not sanding my edges. His argument (and it seemed obvious to me when I read it...having been an inveterate edge-sander all these years...) is that we really rely on that sharp edge for our ride height tool to give us an accurate non-interpreted measurement. I do still CA the chassis edges though.

Scottrik
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Old 12-22-2006, 09:49 AM   #22754
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Hey Guys,

Just wanted to say Merry Christmas .........and to ask for some help in finding a
PDF of 12 scale tunning guide.........I have been to Mark Payne's Web site........although I found a page that someone had posted on what caster, camber, damper tube lube, shock spring.etc.etc except I had lost the link. So if anyone has anything referencing that type of data please feel free to send me a pm or a link.

Best Regards to you all,

Alex Cortez
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:02 AM   #22755
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I would like to see that link as well
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