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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-19-2006, 06:59 AM   #22666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You see Marcos, that's what I don't like ROAR is going to implement 4 cells rules. The number of FETs will be reduce quite significantly but not the street price. Ditto with tolerance or quality of other components...... 4 cells are strategy of getting cheaper costs for manufacturers.
that shouldnt be the price, im sure that the price will drop once is released
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:42 AM   #22667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
what up sucka,i know they are but thats not what i was looking for.thats your pops? thats cool that you and your dad are into the cars together bro.i was looking for difference in geometry throughout steering throw with all given turnbuckle angles the same.comparing oranges to oranges.i can get different bump and ackerman with the angled mounts also.i wanted to see difference with all angles the same.
you racing minreg sucka?
Hey Jason,

Yeah, that is my dad. He builds all my 12th scale cars for the big races.

I probably won't make Minnreg. Not enough traction. I think I am gonna head to Ft. Myers to race 1/8th scale. The big 12th scale car.

Jeff
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:47 AM   #22668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Hi all
I am getting back into the hobby, I have raced 1/10 touring on and off for 5 years, and I am looking at getting into 1/12 once my new trf415msxx is finished, I will be racing at SIR hence the avatar, and was wondering what 1/12 run good there

Thanks
Brian
Most are running some variation of a T-Bar. The pod car are good most just can't seen to get them as consistent as a T-Bar though. (This is at SIR before you all flame). I sit up on the front table and drive the Slapmaster stop by and I'd be glad to offer up some advice.

Are you the January surgery person? If so we talked on the MSXX

Dan
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:40 AM   #22669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You see Marcos, that's what I don't like ROAR is going to implement 4 cells rules. The number of FETs will be reduce quite significantly but not the street price. Ditto with tolerance or quality of other components...... 4 cells are strategy of getting cheaper costs for manufacturers.
Jeeze! Can they add any more wires to the damn thing!! Any mention of overall size? Is it smaller than the current LRP?
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:42 AM   #22670
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Diggity,
1. Will you release the parts individually? I would consider a conversion kit, at most, if I had to. But I don't have a need to buy the whole kit.

2. It's hard to tell from your pictures, but does the transponder mount like this?:


3. You said you adjusted the servos to allow for the turnbuckles to have proper angle. Then I'm assuming you drilled servos holes? If so, what servo did you use for those holes?

4. It sounds like, with the 3D12, you can adjust the battery position from side to side a little bit to help with weight distribution. That's a great idea. How small of adjustments are we talking about?
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:56 AM   #22671
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Hi,

last weekend at our Regionals I didn't get my 12L4 to work in 19T.
I tried nearly everything but the car carried zero corner speed.
I drove the car more or less box stock. Only thing I changed are the rear pods and the CRC center shock. The rest is stock.
I tried a few things at the front end but ended at the kit settings.
Anything I could try to get more cornerspeed?
I used 30wt AE oil in the damper with the green spring.
On the damper disks I ended up with the super heavy lube from CRC.
Tires were JACO double pink and pink.
The body I liked the most was the Parma Zytec.

Any suggestions I could try to get more cornerspeed?

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
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Old 12-19-2006, 11:59 AM   #22672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy-932
Hi,

last weekend at our Regionals I didn't get my 12L4 to work in 19T.
I tried nearly everything but the car carried zero corner speed.
I drove the car more or less box stock. Only thing I changed are the rear pods and the CRC center shock. The rest is stock.
I tried a few things at the front end but ended at the kit settings.
Anything I could try to get more cornerspeed?
I used 30wt AE oil in the damper with the green spring.
On the damper disks I ended up with the super heavy lube from CRC.
Tires were JACO double pink and pink.
The body I liked the most was the Parma Zytec.

Any suggestions I could try to get more cornerspeed?

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
Here is a great set up that Jason (protc3) gave me and it works pretty good ,its for the bmi kit but it should work with yours.


Rear:
.063 T plate
olive spring w/ 25 wt oil
4mm ride height
1.800 tires double pink wraps(TRC)
1.5mm up travel for the pod droop
5000 wt. 1/8 diff oil on washers.make sure you rub the washers real good onto the top plate to create a nice seal.
batteries as far back as they go and run the rear track width at about 168mm

Front:
10 degree castor blocks shimmed to center
.020 front springs / 5000wt. diff oil on the king pins
1.5 degree camber
3.75 mm ride height
no droop
double pink wraps cut to 1.725(TRC)
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:06 PM   #22673
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Hi,

thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try.
How do I create droop on the rear? Length of the damper?

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:07 PM   #22674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy-932
Hi,

thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try.
How do I create droop on the rear? Length of the damper?

Thanks
Cheers
Chris
yes
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:46 PM   #22675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Difuser
Most are running some variation of a T-Bar. The pod car are good most just can't seen to get them as consistent as a T-Bar though. (This is at SIR before you all flame). I sit up on the front table and drive the Slapmaster stop by and I'd be glad to offer up some advice.

Are you the January surgery person? If so we talked on the MSXX

Dan

Hi Dan
Yea that be me, Thanks for the info, I have always liked the 1/12 chassis, but before sir came along and I found it was there, I never had any reason to look into that chassis, but I have always admired their style. I am going to try to get down to Sir again this Friday,

Thanks Dan
Brian
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:28 PM   #22676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Jeeze! Can they add any more wires to the damn thing!! Any mention of overall size? Is it smaller than the current LRP?
The 4 Cell GTB is a regular GTB with a aluminum plate instead of a heatsink and fan. There may be some internal programing changes but the out dimensions are the same.
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:40 PM   #22677
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
The 4 Cell GTB is a regular GTB with a aluminum plate instead of a heatsink and fan. There may be some internal programing changes but the out dimensions are the same.

meh......

I thought it was going to be smaller
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Old 12-19-2006, 02:47 PM   #22678
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looks to me the foot print is about the same size as the original. I will have to have one though.


Jack
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Old 12-19-2006, 03:32 PM   #22679
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How do you alter the length of the centre shock? I have my pre-load nut almost falling off the shock body and i still have more than 6mm rideheight where the pivot is.

I'm not sure if i could screw on the shock ends a bit more, its possible I could - is that the main method for shortning the centre shock?
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Old 12-19-2006, 03:34 PM   #22680
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Originally Posted by v0rtex
How do you alter the length of the centre shock? I have my pre-load nut almost falling off the shock body and i still have more than 6mm rideheight where the pivot is.

I'm not sure if i could screw on the shock ends a bit more, its possible I could - is that the main method for shortning the centre shock?

Try using longer or shorter ball cups to adjust to the desired length.
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