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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-18-2006, 08:12 PM   #22651
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I was just browsing the major brushless system manufacturers websites, and saw this has just been posted on the Novak site.

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/es...ell/index.html

Seals the deal for me, I was worried how I was going to get a GTB into my 1/12th

Anyone got any thoughts on it?
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:23 PM   #22652
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It has the same footprint as the normal GTB.

What's interesting is the 6v bec. I wonder if that's a typo or if they are stepping up the voltage to 6v.
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:27 PM   #22653
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If they were able to lose the large external cap it would decrease the footprint substantially. That thing is huge.

I'm trying to decide which brushless esc to get...

The Tekin is still on the table though it's pretty tall 1" for the R1-Pro .75 for the R1.

The Sphere Comp 2007 version, nice but not available and people had troubles with the last version.

GTB, I've had troubles in the past with them but they appear to have sorted it out.

Mamba Max...pretty freakign huge.
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:29 PM   #22654
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The hi-res image at http://www.teamnovak.com/products/es...tb4cell_lg.jpg is just a photoshop mockup by the looks...
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:59 PM   #22655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
The hi-res image at http://www.teamnovak.com/products/es...tb4cell_lg.jpg is just a photoshop mockup by the looks...


i want one
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:44 PM   #22656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazeblazucki
http://www.darksidems.com/images/pic..._Side_View.jpg
this is a darkside kit.
How does it feel when racing in mod clases? I cant imagine racinf with so much weight in front in mod class. what more it looks that cg is quite high.
any one tried this in mod?
Since thats a pic of my car, il write my thoughts:

I havn't raced mine in mod at a big race yet since the new parts (only practice), but in 19 turn it felt good at the champs. I ran an earlier version of the car at Vegas in mod, the car felt decent but had a bunch of issues power wise holding it back. After running mod in practice back home it feels much better then the older version, i look foward to racing it in mod now.

CG wise its not really a problem since the car is so narrow, the slight amount of weight it has higher would if anything make it feel more like a standard car (more roll)....but it does still transition better then any other 12th i've raced.

As far as weight foward, i had my electonics mounted back to play around with it, and it is a great tuning aid to be able to change the weight balence pretty signifgantly. I am still trying to decide what i prefer, but i think back is easier to drive faster, foward may be better for certain condidtions.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:58 PM   #22657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
If they were able to lose the large external cap it would decrease the footprint substantially. That thing is huge.

you can see the wires for cap still attached.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:10 PM   #22658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
you can see the wires for cap still attached.
extend the wires and you can mount the cap just about anywhere
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:32 PM   #22659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i am fully aware of turnbuckle angles,bump steer ,and ackerman.what i am looking for is what the actual change in steering geometry is.
Ok.......

So turnbuckle angles, bump steer and ackerman are not steering geometry? Interesting.

Haha. You starting things with my dad? Should we talk? LOL. J/K.

Jeff
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:37 PM   #22660
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You can't find a better deal plus I am including all spare parts. The MS2.3 is a conversion kit and it is probably the best 12th scale I have ever driven. I have owned it for just a little over a year but used it last year for about 3 months until 12th scale dried up. I haven't touched the car in about 9 months. I am including the bodies and spares. The selling price is firm. $150.00.

The electronics have been sold it is just the chassis and server which is a Airtronics Z3550. Great Christmas present for yourself.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:39 PM   #22661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
extend the wires and you can mount the cap just about anywhere
don't get me wrong, i will be on the phone to the LHS ordering one tomorrow. lol
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:51 PM   #22662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J


i want one
You see Marcos, that's what I don't like ROAR is going to implement 4 cells rules. The number of FETs will be reduce quite significantly but not the street price. Ditto with tolerance or quality of other components...... 4 cells are strategy of getting cheaper costs for manufacturers.
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Old 12-19-2006, 12:04 AM   #22663
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Hi all
I am getting back into the hobby, I have raced 1/10 touring on and off for 5 years, and I am looking at getting into 1/12 once my new trf415msxx is finished, I will be racing at SIR hence the avatar, and was wondering what 1/12 run good there

Thanks
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Old 12-19-2006, 02:07 AM   #22664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggity
All you 1/12th cats!!

Wanted to let everyone know that we have been designing 2 new 1/12th kits! Yep not 1 but 2 kits! There is the improved and redesigned popular D12 version labeled the 3D12 that has the mid battery layout with adjustable battery positioning. There is the classic rear battery layout edition with adjustable battery positioning labeled the CD12. Both kits have an all new rear pod design that uses the proven CRC side springs and a brand new mid pivot design only found here at Diggity Designs! Both kits are all new chassis designs!! The servo position has been revised to allow for the turnbuckles to have proper angle! There is a front cutout in the chassis for the AMB transponders that are comonly used in the RC industry but our cutout includes a small strip of carbon fibre still in the cutout for those people, like some I know, that have cut the side tabs off of their AMB transponders. This small strip can be cutout with a dremel in about 30 seconds for those who have a new or noncut AMB transponder. These kits will be available in January 2007 and they will be complete kits only! Here are a couple exclusive prototype pics!








I have to say it looks like the Color that Team Laje uses.

http://www.laje.se/IMAGES/large_SpeedEvil2007.jpg

It is cool to see all the designs, i love it, 12 scale for life :-)

Alf :-)
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Old 12-19-2006, 04:19 AM   #22665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Ok.......

So turnbuckle angles, bump steer and ackerman are not steering geometry? Interesting.

Haha. You starting things with my dad? Should we talk? LOL. J/K.

Jeff

what up sucka,i know they are but thats not what i was looking for.thats your pops? thats cool that you and your dad are into the cars together bro.i was looking for difference in geometry throughout steering throw with all given turnbuckle angles the same.comparing oranges to oranges.i can get different bump and ackerman with the angled mounts also.i wanted to see difference with all angles the same.
you racing minreg sucka?
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