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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-18-2006, 04:24 AM   #22636
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Diggity,

Any prices range yet on the new designs? Also will they be avail. in all black? Nice job on the new designs!!

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:19 AM   #22637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinL
Diggity,

Any prices range yet on the new designs? Also will they be avail. in all black? Nice job on the new designs!!

Thanks,

Kevin
Kevin,

I cant post anything to do with price on here so I will private message you!. They will be available in black and silver! They will include everything but a body and tires since everyone uses different stuff!

thanks, Damon
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Old 12-18-2006, 06:42 AM   #22638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggity


Kevin,

I cant post anything to do with price on here so I will private message you!. They will be available in black and silver! They will include everything but a body and tires since everyone uses different stuff!

thanks, Damon
Interesting. What color anodizing is that called? never seen it before
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:59 AM   #22639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Is it necessary to have all types of makers tyre compounds, or is it safe to go with let say, every compound of just CRC Pro-cuts?
Jason has given his opinion on this, now how about the rest of you 1/12th diehards?
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:11 AM   #22640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
What color anodizing is that called? never seen it before
Looks like GOLD to me. Remember the RC10?
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:11 AM   #22641
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Like Jason, I run Double Pink wraps front and rear everywhere...Asphalt and Carpet. I think with very few changes to chasiss setup they are the fastest and are easy to dial in to all conditions.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:21 AM   #22642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Interesting. What color anodizing is that called? never seen it before
What up Darkside,

That color would be anodized orange!! I should have taken a pole to see how many people would have guessed gold or orange! If you put it next to something that is anodized gold you will see that it is indeed orange! We do custom anodizing inhouse.

later, Diggity
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:33 AM   #22643
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LOVE the color Diggity.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:36 AM   #22644
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So can you run any suspension on a 12th scale; it just basically has to be 2WD correct? ? i got some genius designs that I might try.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:17 AM   #22645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
So can you run any suspension on a 12th scale; it just basically has to be 2WD correct? ? i got some genius designs that I might try.
Not quite. You can do pretty much anything you want at the front, but ROAR and IFMAR rules for 1/12 cars clearly state that cars must use a "single, one-piece drive axle" and "no independent suspension allowed".

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Old 12-18-2006, 10:19 AM   #22646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
So can you run any suspension on a 12th scale; it just basically has to be 2WD correct? ? i got some genius designs that I might try.
I believe ROAR and IFMAR rules forbid an independent rear suspension or transmission from 1/12th scale cars. I am pretty sure every sanctioning body has rules stating the car must be direct-drive and have a solid rear axle, and that the motor and axle must be suspended on the same chassis component (rear pod). This is part of the reason why you never see a radical departure in the design of 1/12th scale cars, because the rules limit the design to the few standard "pan-car" designs.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:39 AM   #22647
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Thanks. all of my ideas still have a solid rear axle. I'll start working on something today.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:26 PM   #22648
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The "DIGGITY DESIGNS" car's (plural) look dialed. The rear pivot is very unique, not your typical pivot ball setup. Being able to move the cell weight left to right on the cd12 is really neat for people who have oddball sized electronics. Instead of adding weight you can just move the batteries a bit. You cant go wrong with Quasi-Isotropic Graphite either. No tape, no o-ring to tweak your car, perfect!

Good luck with your new cars DAMON, cant wait to get mine!!!!!
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Old 12-18-2006, 01:24 PM   #22649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Jason has given his opinion on this, now how about the rest of you 1/12th diehards?
I think you can confuse yourself by switching brands too much. When you change brands of front tire, for instance, you will often change the front track. This in itself can be a big change to the car's set up. If you are aware of all the differnces between compunds, offsets and spacing you have more options available to you for tuning, but if you are not you may get a change you didn't expect. Like the other guys, I pretty much run the same compound everywhere, when conditions are normal. Parma Pinks and Magentas for me!
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Old 12-18-2006, 02:57 PM   #22650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggity
All you 1/12th cats!!

Wanted to let everyone know that we have been designing 2 new 1/12th kits! Yep not 1 but 2 kits! There is the improved and redesigned popular D12 version labeled the 3D12 that has the mid battery layout with adjustable battery positioning. There is the classic rear battery layout edition with adjustable battery positioning labeled the CD12. Both kits have an all new rear pod design that uses the proven CRC side springs and a brand new mid pivot design only found here at Diggity Designs! Both kits are all new chassis designs!! The servo position has been revised to allow for the turnbuckles to have proper angle! There is a front cutout in the chassis for the AMB transponders that are comonly used in the RC industry but our cutout includes a small strip of carbon fibre still in the cutout for those people, like some I know, that have cut the side tabs off of their AMB transponders. This small strip can be cutout with a dremel in about 30 seconds for those who have a new or noncut AMB transponder. These kits will be available in January 2007 and they will be complete kits only! Here are a couple exclusive prototype pics!







Very good looking!
Awesome to see the growing interest in the class, and the growing number of brands and designs of cars!
How does your rear pivot ball design work?
It looks really compact, so it will probably give you a lot of room to place your batteries!
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