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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-31-2003, 11:22 AM   #2251
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y is the rc12l chassis white? is there any advantages to the rc12l3 if u plan to on road bash?
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:53 PM   #2252
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Default Shooters 1/12

Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
There are two local companies in Hong Kong making 4 cell chassis for the RC12L3...one is Top and one is Shooters....The Shooters chassis is almost a copy of the Yokomo chassis, they are also making enough other options to build a "Shooters" car! Of course...much cheaper! I'm putting the latest option on my car- alloy bulkheads...will have pictures to post soon!
OK, here are the pics I promised.....

The options I have on it are;

Shooters:
Chassis- all graphite pieces
Alloy damper post
Lower Motor mount and left bulk head
A-arm upper hinge pin (e-clips)
Alloy front body posts (for VoneRR!)
Front ride height shims
Front Axles

Yokomo:
Right rear wheel hub

AE:
Blue Shock body
Blue left rear wheel hub
Blue stand offs

Not much left of the original RC12L3 really!
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:53 PM   #2253
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Close up of the rear pod...
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:54 PM   #2254
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Another view......
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:55 PM   #2255
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Front view.....

The front height shims are neat...only have to loosen the A arm screws and slide in...or out....
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Old 01-31-2003, 01:00 PM   #2256
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Quote:
Originally posted by petenis
Kiyano, dtm or any one who knows: Where would I get the Shooter's chassis, If it's worth it? Is there a website or anything?

-Pete Simons
Hi Pete, you can try Control Centre or Harmony Models...both should have stock and do mail order...

http://controlcentre.rctech.net

http://www.yp.com.hk/hecharmony/
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Old 01-31-2003, 04:41 PM   #2257
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petenis,

Also you can see optional parts for RC12L3 from
here .

The chassis is not sold from this manufacturer


dtm,

Is there a webpage of the manufacturer which makes the chassis?

Last edited by kiyano; 01-31-2003 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 01-31-2003, 06:56 PM   #2258
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Whaddayall think of my Bentley idea
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Old 01-31-2003, 10:59 PM   #2259
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Quote:
Originally posted by kiyano
petenis,

Also you can see optional parts for RC12L3 from
here .

The chassis is not sold from this manufacturer


dtm,

Is there a webpage of the manufacturer which makes the chassis?
GPM is somewhat a "laughing stock" in Hong Kong...no serious local will buy from them.......notorious for poor quality, soft as cheese alloy and parts that don't fit too well......

Shooters don't have a website. Their quality is a lot better, although they did manage to screw up this batch of graphite chassis, the chamfers were cut at the wrong angle!
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Old 02-01-2003, 04:15 PM   #2260
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i have a jr standard servo and small reciver that i plan to mount on my servo to save space when i get my rc12l3. will a standard servo with dimension fit (o.76 by 1.51 by 1.48) i think that is it. if not what is a cheap servo that will fit.
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Old 02-01-2003, 04:42 PM   #2261
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Here is a pic of the real Bentley. My idea is that if you took some music wire, and reamed two small holes near the spoiler, and then ran the music wire through the two holes and then mounted a touring car wing on there, it would look more like the one they race in real life. The music wire could be mounted in the T bar in the rear. It may not be the greatest idea, but its an idea
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Old 02-01-2003, 10:28 PM   #2262
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Wouldnt that just make the car slower?
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Old 02-02-2003, 02:02 AM   #2263
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Stevie- After Concillian's great answer all i would say is that
SMC GP 3300's are great along with many others such as Trinity GP's and Pro-Match GP's. Try a pack for practice and when they become legal race them. They keep their numbers much longer than we experienced with HV's so you will like that as well. I think you guys can get SMC's over there.

Petenis- I'm looking to come up in two weeks to practice what day is the race day and do you think Yari and Mitch will run 12th mod with me (or anyone else for the matter)? How's Dave, the racing and the drag car btw?

Switchblade- You have an excellent car and should be very competitive with it without needing an immediate upgrade. I do think the 02' edition transitions a little faster but i'm told that your edition is a little more stable with a little more rear traction. Trinity i believe makes a conversion kit for your car to the 02' version so you can contact them about that.

70mph Pan Car- I think you would be much better served by getting the JR Z3555 servo for $60. They last an incredibly long time and are very accurate. The servo you are talking about probably isn't as fast as you need even if you can make it fit and the resolution of the Z3555 may be better especially since it's ball bearing. The Z3555 may also have a coreless or at least 5pole motor, either of which is better than a 3 pole which the standard servo may be which increases resolution and speed.
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Old 02-02-2003, 04:53 AM   #2264
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DTM,
Your car is SWEET............. but the purple screws gotta go .
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Old 02-02-2003, 06:43 AM   #2265
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I raced the 1/12 last night, had a great time. I hadd a few problems though. My rear axle bearings, one of them seized, and two got crunchy. I replaced them with some cheap bulk bearings from the shop, but eventually I wantto get some decent ones. Any thoughts on where to go for good, cheap bearings?

I also broke a rear wheel. How should I prevent this? I know the obvious answer is "dont hit stuff".I was thinking of something more along the lines of nerf wings. Any thoughts on this?

And the same with the front, I havent broken a wheel yet (knock on wood), but should I be making a front bumper? I have plently of old TC3 bumpers, made from Kydex, should I cut up one of those?

Thanks
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