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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-17-2006, 08:05 PM   #22621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Thanks J, I'm gonna watch for that. I've experienced double-steer the last time out
no problem bro.you will find once you get rid of the double steer,your lap times will increase and so will consistancy.
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Last edited by protc3; 12-17-2006 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 12-17-2006, 08:06 PM   #22622
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Gotta question

Is it necessary to have all types of makers tyre compounds, or is it safe to go with let say, every compound of just CRC Pro-cuts?
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Old 12-17-2006, 08:06 PM   #22623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
thanks a bunch, got my butt kicked today by bodine so i gotta do something. other then giving up the sedan.
cant have that now.
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Old 12-17-2006, 08:09 PM   #22624
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i honestly only ran procuts 1 time so i cant really say much about them.on asphalt i always run jaco or TRC wraps.i run 1 compound always.double pink front and rear.they seem to work in every situation.i run em in mod and 19 turn carpet and asphalt.they always seem to work the best for me.
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Old 12-17-2006, 08:10 PM   #22625
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Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
can i steal your avatar jaybee, you know green is my color
You just got JACKED!! buddy
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Old 12-17-2006, 09:22 PM   #22626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hey guys,i am experimenting with servo flat vs. angled soon.what are your guys findings with the difference between the 2.i tried it flat one time and i cant really get much from that test being that i had a crumby setup for carpet my first time out.now that i have an established setup for carpet that is working extremely well, i want to experiment with the servo flat on the chassis again. i am looking for actual differences,not just if you like it better or not.i am really detail oriented and hate to be a pest but i dont have much experience with the flat on the chassis servo.from what i can see it looks like the angled mounts would give a slight bit of ackerman gain throughout the steering throw and increase steering through the corner.i was thinking maybe the servo flat would free the front of the car up on mid corner and exit.i could be wrong,please share your facts or oppinions.

thanks,
jason
alot of what your looking is way deep in this thread. i would contact Josh Cyrul. he has probably run near every 1/12 frontend combo in the last ten???+ years. His latest car has the AE Dyn frontend with a laydown servo. i believe he ran it that way at the IIC and Cleveland. i got his new kit a month ago and still have to finish it. i'm at a indecision point myself to whether to stay angled or go flat as the car is raced by the guy who designed it? i'm curious myself on this kit. so many 1/12th cars can only race one at a time....

i tried the servo layed down with the Dyn front on a 3.1 CK years ago on carpet, didn't like it, went back to angled. i only tried it because i was told by a pro-driver that with the laydown servo the L/R wheels turn at the same angles (no ackerman), reducing speed scrub, faster corner speed, etc. i can't recall what the effects were for me, but that i didn't like it.

CRC may have some insight info since some run the servo angled or flat with the AE Dyn frontend from race to race.

i have a notepad document where i cut and pasted info in to. don't know if all are dead-on correct?
- angled, gives you more initial turn in
- angled on asphalt and flat on carpet
- flat, need long offset ball studs for your steering spindles to correct
the bump steer
- flat, lowers CG & eliminate mounting hardware
- flat, reduces slip angle of the inside tire on carpet. more efficient/faster
- flat, less ackerman and more stable and efficient in the corners.
- flat, on hi traction tracks...you don't need ackerman of angled config
- flat, more steering in 180s and less in sweepers
- angled, less steering in 180s and more in sweepers.
- flat, on a tight tracks

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 12-17-2006 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 12-17-2006, 10:30 PM   #22627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazeblazucki
this is a darkside kit.
How does it feel when racing in mod clases? I cant imagine racinf with so much weight in front in mod class. what more it looks that cg is quite high.
any one tried this in mod?
Doesn't really look any higher then most cars to me. Yeah it does have a higher plate above the battery but the servo also sits lower in the car. I'd expect due to the servo's weight vs the top plate's weight that lowering the servo would have more of an effect on the CG then adding the battery brace.

I have one on the way though...I'll find out more when I get it
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:17 AM   #22628
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For the record:

Darkside Motorsports is not a paying supporter of this forum. The company currently supports another on-line forum that is closely tied to the core product line of the company, oval cars/parts. That being said, over the past year the core focus of the business has expanded to include on-road racing related products. At some point in the future, we will be a supporter of this forum.

Nick from Team Quick. I have never posted much of anything related to your business on this or any other forum. I really do not know much about you or your business to even have a basis to comment. As far as I'm concerned, you are another small company like Darkside Motorsports that is working to carve a piece of the pie in this industry. I wish you luck with that. Please, in the future, get your facts straight before making inaccurate statements about my actions.

As far as the postings made on the speedmerchant thread several weeks back. For those of you that might not know, I have known the owner of Speedmerchant for over 15 years now, dating to the days when I lived in the Boston area. I have a great deal of respect for the results/success that the company has had. As I have said before, that speaks for itself, and I have never questioned that or tried to minimize it. Since it is known that I have this relationship with the owner of Speedmerchant, I get e-mails on a semi-regular basis asking me what is going on with the company?, how can I get in touch with the owner?, etc. While I have never responded to any of these e-mails with negative comments, I am getting tired of receiving them. It boils down to something that I learned quite a while ago. Service your customers, or someone else will. Have I made some off-color or poorly placed remarks? Probably. Will I post something like that again on another mfr's thread? Probably not. I am a stand-up guy, I'm not perfect, I speak my mind, and I accept the results of my actions and statements. I'm sorry that some people were offended by my statements, but I can't please all of the people all of the time, nor do I try to.

As I have said in the past, I am highly motivated by the insults, bashing, etc that is directed towards me & my company on this forum. It drives me even harder than the success of winning. I do ask one thing, if you are going to make comments, don't hide behind screen names (timmay70). As I said before, I'm a stand-up guy & If I'm going to make a comment, I'm not going to hide behind a screen name. I expect that behavior from everybody else.

Most importantly, I think that we all need to realize that we are all men and women playing with toy cars, they just happen to be expensive toy cars. I think that we all need to look at things in that context sometimes.

Darkside Motorsports is not going anywhere, I will continue to strive to support our customers to the best of my ability. The results have and will continue to speak for themselves.

Eric T. Dimmick
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Last edited by THE DARKSIDE; 12-18-2006 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:21 AM   #22629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Originally Posted by blazeblazucki


this is a darkside kit.
How does it feel when racing in mod clases? I cant imagine racinf with so much weight in front in mod class. what more it looks that cg is quite high.
any one tried this in mod?

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Doesn't really look any higher then most cars to me. Yeah it does have a higher plate above the battery but the servo also sits lower in the car. I'd expect due to the servo's weight vs the top plate's weight that lowering the servo would have more of an effect on the CG then adding the battery brace.

I have one on the way though...I'll find out more when I get it
I'll be honest, I've never personally ran the chassis in mod, so I can not talk first hand about the performance. Our team driver, Mike Haynes, has made numerous laps with the chassis in mod however. I'll get him to post what he's found on this thread.

-E
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:52 AM   #22630
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Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
For the record:
The moderator requested this discussion was not continued in this thread, I have posted a response to you in the Team Kwik thread.

Nick
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Old 12-18-2006, 01:04 AM   #22631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
The moderator requested this discussion was not continued in this thread, I have posted a response to you in the Team Kwik thread.

Nick
I've said all I care to about the issue.
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Old 12-18-2006, 02:31 AM   #22632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
I've said all I care to about the issue.
the issue is not dead and Nick has posted some relevant comments on his thread. Thanks Nick.
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Old 12-18-2006, 03:26 AM   #22633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i run the new shock from irs.it does have a softer feel because the shock is much better.to have the same feel,try a slight bit heavier oil.
Yeah that's what i plan to do. It was just a strange thing over the weekend - just couldn't work out why the car didn't feel right!!! You're absolutely right, it is a much better shock - no question in my mind, just need to get the setup right.
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Old 12-18-2006, 04:10 AM   #22634
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Default Diggity Designs New 1/12th kits for 2007 Preview!!

All you 1/12th cats!!

Wanted to let everyone know that we have been designing 2 new 1/12th kits! Yep not 1 but 2 kits! There is the improved and redesigned popular D12 version labeled the 3D12 that has the mid battery layout with adjustable battery positioning. There is the classic rear battery layout edition with adjustable battery positioning labeled the CD12. Both kits have an all new rear pod design that uses the proven CRC side springs and a brand new mid pivot design only found here at Diggity Designs! Both kits are all new chassis designs!! The servo position has been revised to allow for the turnbuckles to have proper angle! There is a front cutout in the chassis for the AMB transponders that are comonly used in the RC industry but our cutout includes a small strip of carbon fibre still in the cutout for those people, like some I know, that have cut the side tabs off of their AMB transponders. This small strip can be cutout with a dremel in about 30 seconds for those who have a new or noncut AMB transponder. These kits will be available in January 2007 and they will be complete kits only! Here are a couple exclusive prototype pics!







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Old 12-18-2006, 04:16 AM   #22635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
alot of what your looking is way deep in this thread. i would contact Josh Cyrul. he has probably run near every 1/12 frontend combo in the last ten???+ years. His latest car has the AE Dyn frontend with a laydown servo. i believe he ran it that way at the IIC and Cleveland. i got his new kit a month ago and still have to finish it. i'm at a indecision point myself to whether to stay angled or go flat as the car is raced by the guy who designed it? i'm curious myself on this kit. so many 1/12th cars can only race one at a time....

i tried the servo layed down with the Dyn front on a 3.1 CK years ago on carpet, didn't like it, went back to angled. i only tried it because i was told by a pro-driver that with the laydown servo the L/R wheels turn at the same angles (no ackerman), reducing speed scrub, faster corner speed, etc. i can't recall what the effects were for me, but that i didn't like it.

CRC may have some insight info since some run the servo angled or flat with the AE Dyn frontend from race to race.

i have a notepad document where i cut and pasted info in to. don't know if all are dead-on correct?
- angled, gives you more initial turn in
- angled on asphalt and flat on carpet
- flat, need long offset ball studs for your steering spindles to correct
the bump steer
- flat, lowers CG & eliminate mounting hardware
- flat, reduces slip angle of the inside tire on carpet. more efficient/faster
- flat, less ackerman and more stable and efficient in the corners.
- flat, on hi traction tracks...you don't need ackerman of angled config
- flat, more steering in 180s and less in sweepers
- angled, less steering in 180s and more in sweepers.
- flat, on a tight tracks
thanks buddy,that is the kind of response i was looking for.i will speak with josh at the birds about this and see what his take is on it.in the mean time i will see what i find.thanks again buddy.
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