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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-15-2006, 06:05 PM   #22516
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Heck if I had the money I would try them all....

Jason that new 12th looks sick and has some very interesting details.
Speedmerchant that chassis is pimp and yes I am still drooling.
Darkside your gear has always been top notch.
But I am running CRC for the two best reasons.
1) I have local track support when I need it and
2) It hasn't broke on me yet...LOL

Maybe I will venture out and try one of the others listed with the Xmas cash I get....hehe.
But I don't see anyone prticular manufactor bashing the other heck I think
Brian and Jason are trying to make a 12th scale baby together...LOL
Lets talk about reasons for running particular ride heights.
I seem to run 3.5 almost exclusively because the minimum ride height at my track is 3mm and really by the end of a good 8 minutes I'm pushing 3mm or a hair lower...
Does anyone run any lower on carpet? If so why?

Sorry just thought we could let the other subject die.
The questions I asked are seeking anwsers though.
-Shookie <><
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Old 12-15-2006, 06:40 PM   #22517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
Actually, you are wrong. He did the equivalent of going into a Schumacher thread and telling people to buy Xrays
Actually, Adrian is right...he's not doing anything wrong. Someone was complaining about customer service and he was telling them that it's a primary focus of his company.

Also, I think Darkside is a paying advertiser here, I don't believe speedmerchant is.
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Old 12-15-2006, 07:03 PM   #22518
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Quote:
is a paying advertiser here
Hmmm. Does this give one the right to snipe?

Quote:
He always seems to be real "busy".............
(from p.750)

Must have missed the part about the primary focus of his company.

Actually, Mr. Shookie knows the high road here and in my opinion we should take his example.
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Old 12-15-2006, 07:11 PM   #22519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
I seem to run 3.5 almost exclusively because the minimum ride height at my track is 3mm and really by the end of a good 8 minutes I'm pushing 3mm or a hair lower...
Does anyone run any lower on carpet? If so why?
Yeah...I ran .5mm or lower last weekend. Not because it ran better but because I had a major brain fart and forgot to check/change ride height after switching tires.

3.5mm here all around.
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Old 12-15-2006, 07:34 PM   #22520
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I was not complaining about customer service and did not want this to get out of hand.Bruce's stuff is top shelf.
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Old 12-16-2006, 07:57 AM   #22521
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T've been running my CRC 3.1 at 4mm, partly as you said by the end of the run the car will be lower than when you started. And I hate it when my ass is dragging

Chris
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Old 12-16-2006, 09:53 AM   #22522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Thanks for the support guys, The performance of our products and our committment to customer service will always speak for itself.
Then why are you always talking?




(Yes I am a paying advertiser too so therefore I must have the right to toss out witty one liners at the expense of others.)

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Old 12-16-2006, 10:07 AM   #22523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Wow...that was a bit uncalled for. Darkside is a small company promoting itself the best it can. They have been pretty active here as far as telling people about their car but they are not bashing others cars.
Ohh how terribly wrong. As an owner of another small business in the industry I can say that someone saying the things Eric has on this board about myself would make me quite angry, in fact it has, even though it was not directed at me. I think this online community could do without business owners like that. Does the fact that he pays for a thread on this board give him the right to say whatever he wants or should he be held to the same level of conduct we would expect to see from you Adrian?

Would your tune change if it was someone from say Xray or Corally being quite vocal about the shortcomings of Schumacher, in your own thread no less? In either example it's not something I would consider reasonable conduct from someone who's goal should be to exhibit the best possible image for his business.

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Old 12-16-2006, 10:20 AM   #22524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Actually, Adrian is right...he's not doing anything wrong. Someone was complaining about customer service and he was telling them that it's a primary focus of his company.
I don't know if you saw. The post that smojoe made linking to his comments (Here ), was not posted in a 12th scale forum. He went into the rev4 thread and made that post.
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Old 12-16-2006, 11:29 AM   #22525
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...mean while back to the kitchen.
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Old 12-16-2006, 11:33 AM   #22526
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hey guys,i am experimenting with servo flat vs. angled soon.what are your guys findings with the difference between the 2.i tried it flat one time and i cant really get much from that test being that i had a crumby setup for carpet my first time out.now that i have an established setup for carpet that is working extremely well, i want to experiment with the servo flat on the chassis again.i am looking for actual differences,not just if you like it better or not.i am really detail oriented and hate to be a pest but i dont have much experience with the flat on the chassis servo.from what i can see it looks like the angled mounts would give a slight bit of ackerman gain throughout the steering throw and increase steering through the corner.i was thinking maybe the servo flat would free the front of the car up on mid corner and exit.i could be wrong,please share your facts or oppinions.

thanks,
jason
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Old 12-16-2006, 11:57 AM   #22527
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you know,now that i look at it,the angled mounts seem to be relative to castor angle to maintain the steering geometry.i will try it flat to see what happens.
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Old 12-16-2006, 12:04 PM   #22528
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This situation is of questionable taste,( from the first comment about Bruce ,to the comment from Dark ) let please move on and talk about 12th scale here. If you guys have issues with a way someone runs thier business, please start another thread, or PM.

Thanks,
Mod


Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
Ohh how terribly wrong. As an owner of another small business in the industry I can say that someone saying the things Eric has on this board about myself would make me quite angry, in fact it has, even though it was not directed at me. I think this online community could do without business owners like that. Does the fact that he pays for a thread on this board give him the right to say whatever he wants or should he be held to the same level of conduct we would expect to see from you Adrian?

Would your tune change if it was someone from say Xray or Corally being quite vocal about the shortcomings of Schumacher, in your own thread no less? In either example it's not something I would consider reasonable conduct from someone who's goal should be to exhibit the best possible image for his business.

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Old 12-16-2006, 12:35 PM   #22529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hey guys,i am experimenting with servo flat vs. angled soon.what are your guys findings with the difference between the 2.i tried it flat one time and i cant really get much from that test being that i had a crumby setup for carpet my first time out.now that i have an established setup for carpet that is working extremely well, i want to experiment with the servo flat on the chassis again.i am looking for actual differences,not just if you like it better or not.i am really detail oriented and hate to be a pest but i dont have much experience with the flat on the chassis servo.from what i can see it looks like the angled mounts would give a slight bit of ackerman gain throughout the steering throw and increase steering through the corner.i was thinking maybe the servo flat would free the front of the car up on mid corner and exit.i could be wrong,please share your facts or oppinions.

thanks,
jason
I heard more angle is more forgiving, more soft. While flat position is more agressive / responsive.
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Old 12-16-2006, 01:33 PM   #22530
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thats what i heard also but i want to figure out why.i can see why it would feel more aggressive on entry but i cant see why it would mid corner and exit.it seems that the angled mounts are about 10 degrees as is the castor angle.i guess this would keep the geometry consistant thoughout the steering throw.huh,maybe we can all do some testing to see the differences.i will scale the geometry throughout the steering throw with both styles of mounting and see what i find.
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