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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-28-2001, 10:30 AM   #211
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storm -- most drivers put traction compound on the entire rear tire and the inside third of the fronts.
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Old 10-28-2001, 12:31 PM   #212
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i was thinking about doing that, however i had no traction on the asphault, so i decied not to, however i will defently do that on carpet
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Old 10-28-2001, 07:47 PM   #213
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Hey Taz, check your PM's i sent you something about the upcoming race you told me about.
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Old 10-29-2001, 07:28 AM   #214
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stormperson: Toe links... I don't know for sure. Since I got my kit in a trade, I don't really know what should have been included in the box. However, the guy that I traded with did include a set of links.

For the front springs (Old School Front End), I found it "easier" to install the "E" clip under the spring first, then allowing the tension of the spring I slid the second "E" clip between the steering block and arm. This held the "E" clip in place, while I used my small flat blade screwdriver to push it onto the king pin.

Rear Axle: This Associated rear axle is really different for me. I really like the left side screw on hub. However, I thought that something was wrong when I saw the diff rings. On my Carpet Knife, the diff rings were keyed ("D" type ring), so that the diff rings didn't spin freely. I don't know if there's any advantage but it seems to make since for the diff ring to be stationary???
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Old 10-29-2001, 07:35 AM   #215
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Can anyone answer my battery question (posted below)?
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Old 10-29-2001, 08:08 AM   #216
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coolrcdad: i never tryed using 2400 or 3000 on the car, but im using 6 2000 batteries and its giving me alot of run time using a 15t motor!!
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Old 10-29-2001, 09:23 AM   #217
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coolrcdad, I have seen people use 2400's for stock 1/12th scale racing but they were very smooth drivers. With the amount of hp and the current the motors draw it is pretty close to dumping.

I would check with the person who you bought your batteries from. See what charging and discharging method that they used. Try to duplicate it as close as possible. Sometimes batteries don't like changes. Also, double check the battery forum on here and see what has been said on there.
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Old 10-29-2001, 10:09 AM   #218
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coolrcdad-

2400's should do for stock 1/12 racing. It wasn't too long ago that we were running 1700's in both stock and mod 1/12. I ran 2400's in mod 4 cell last season, I ran a 13 triple and made runtime almost all the time.

Stock motors are a little faster these days, but I think even 2000's should have plenty of runtime in stock if you're not way overgeared.

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Old 10-29-2001, 11:04 AM   #219
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I can attest to that... The year before last, and for the time that I ran last year, I used 2000 cells (racing stock) without any problems. I used a P2k with blue springs, a partially cut brush and proper gearing. 2400 should easily make time.
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Old 10-29-2001, 01:49 PM   #220
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Thanks to all who replied. Most of the 12th scale drivers at our track recommended 3000s to make the 8-minute run time in stock. We have a 12L3 geared 94/26.
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Old 10-29-2001, 02:30 PM   #221
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You should check out the new Sanyo HV 3000's. They will have just as much punch as 2400's with much more runtime. Call Billy at Speedworld. He has killer prices on SMC packs. (916)783-8864
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Old 10-29-2001, 02:33 PM   #222
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Mo: we need your help over here in the 1/10th pan car side
1/10th pan car

Quote:
Originally posted by antoniop
Guys,

I have a Trinity Switchblade Pro 10 car.

I bought the car second hand (no manual) and I need to know the PN's for the right purple aluminium bulkhead and the left aluminium bulkhead.

In the likely event of being unable to find them at Tower Hobbies, do you know an online retailer where I can get them from?

I believe these parts are exactly the same on the oval car or on the narrow Switchblade pan car.

Any help is greatly appreciated
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Old 10-30-2001, 05:55 AM   #223
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stormperson: I still have to build my battery packs and install the electronics on the chassis but my SpeedMerchant is "almost" there. I'm Awaiting my servo Airtronics 94145 and several replacement parts (just in case). I discovered that Tower has many of the smaller replacement parts for the Rev.3. Most of the parts are Associated parts and Tower stocks them. Type in a part number in the Search field to get part information and availability.

A big help for the lack of Rev.3 instructions has been the 12L3 instruction manual. I printed out the manual for the Associated 12L3. It's available at the Associated web site in a PDF format. http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ma...2l3_manual.pdf

I was told by a local racer that camber is built into the front arms. I have not done any measurements yet though.
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Old 10-30-2001, 03:44 PM   #224
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ya, i did realize that alot of the stuff was AE, however i couldnt find their manual online, so that was a big help with that link.
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Old 10-30-2001, 07:43 PM   #225
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What does having more or less castor do on a 12L3?

What is effect of using the level front blocks vs. the angled ones?
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