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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-10-2006, 06:59 AM   #22381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_Spec_RC
Would the Hudy setup system work for a 12th scale? If not, can you provide alternatives?
No, for a variety of reasons.

I've got two alternatives, one inexpensive, one not so.

The alignment bars from Niftech:


----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ultra Precision Front End Alignment, Camber and Rear Wheel to Center of Chassis Tool
3000 Series (Special Tools)
Keywords: Alignment Tool Wheel Front Rear Chassis Camber
For adjusting alignment, camber and rear end width.

Features:

1. A quick check of wheel alignment.
2. No need to disassemble total front end, just unbolt wheels.
3. Checks that rear wheels are in center of chassis.
4. Go faster and straighter.
Full Size Image
For 1/8'' front axle (#3001-125)
$24.95 Quanity:
For 3/16'' front axle (#3001-187)
$24.95 Quanity:
For sedans with 4mm axles (#3001-S-4)
$24.95 Quanity:
For sedans with 5mm axles (#3001-S-5)
$24.95 Quanity:
Optional 12'' Gauge Rod for extra wide cars and trucks (#3001-12)
$4.95 Quanity:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

For most 1/12 cars you'll need the 1/8 piece. The pic below shows two sets in use--you only get two bars and one rod. The bar and rod against the rear tire/wheel is showing how to verify axle centering.


The tweak / alignment station from Unity:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cost: $145.00 plus shipping and handling
Unity Tool, Inc. accepts Visa, Master Card and American Express.

Order By Phone 763-428-9888 or 800-959-0360

Thank you for your interest in the most accurate R/C alignment equipment available today. The aluminum parts have been coated with a Teflon impregnated hard coating that will insure many years of wear protection and smooth operation. The vial gauges are special (19 min. accuracy) and twice as sensitive as the standard gauges (35-40 min.) found in most hardware stores. The most unique feature is the camber, caster, and toe in blocks, only found on our tweek boards. Now you can set the alignment accurately in minutes, instead of trying to measure and guess. Ever wonder why a new car seems to go faster, and handle better than after itīs been itīs been used and abused for awhile? Tweek is the answer! Getting all four tires to put the same pressure on the road surface, so when you want to go left or right it will respond equally in both directions. On full scale race cars they use scales under each wheel to measure the pressure, but R/C cars can use the centering bubble to do the same thing. Just center the car on the board with the rear of the car over the movable bar and adjust until the bubble is centered. Your tweek board comes packaged in a very compact kit, and the two bolts are finger tight (donīt over tighten).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Both work great, you wouldn't be disappointed with either. The Unity one is actually easier to figure out and less fussy to use overall, but the Niftech tool is elegant in it's simplicity and execution.

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:12 AM   #22382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
BMI DB12 with the 3.5


Hi marcos,

Sorry, newbee questions.

I see your car use GTB 3.5R.

I would like to know do you have glitching problem at full throttle ?

Or do you use external battery to power receiver & servo ?

I'm using GTB 3.5R too + Futaba S9451 digital servo,........ the car took off out of control today luckily nothing broke......
I thought the glitch caused by antenna wires being spiral ( curl spiral ) at the roll over antenna. ( I switched from flexible tube antenna to stiff-solid antenna, as 1/12 people suggested in this forum ).

My friend who has GTB 4.5R use external battery in his 1/12...... but I prefer not, coz I have to charge twice ( I'm not 100% racer, just hobbyist ).

Thanks for your inputs
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:28 AM   #22383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Hi marcos,

Sorry, newbee questions.

I see your car use GTB 3.5R.

I would like to know do you have glitching problem at full throttle ?

Or do you use external battery to power receiver & servo ?

I'm using GTB 3.5R too + Futaba S9451 digital servo,........ the car took off out of control today luckily nothing broke......
I thought the glitch caused by antenna wires being spiral ( curl spiral ) at the roll over antenna. ( I switched from flexible tube antenna to stiff-solid antenna, as 1/12 people suggested in this forum ).

My friend who has GTB 4.5R use external battery in his 1/12...... but I prefer not, coz I have to charge twice ( I'm not 100% racer, just hobbyist ).

Thanks for your inputs
no glitch for me , I use the spektrum ,I use the receiver pack just incase! but you may not need it
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Old 12-10-2006, 11:17 AM   #22384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
no glitch for me , I use the spektrum ,I use the receiver pack just incase! but you may not need it
What is that on the right of your spectrum receiver ? I mean the black things..... Is that 5 cells battery or 5 capacitors ?

I normally don't have out of control problem with 6 cells TC and engine cars ( I'm using Futaba R113iP PCM ). I usually let the antenna wires straight up through antenna tube. Is it possible the radio range become poorer / noiser when people spiral the wires ?
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Old 12-10-2006, 11:25 AM   #22385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
What is that on the right of your spectrum receiver ? I mean the black things..... Is that 5 cells battery or 5 capacitors ?

I normally don't have out of control problem with 6 cells TC and engine cars ( I'm using Futaba R113iP PCM ). I usually let the antenna wires straight up through antenna tube. Is it possible the radio range become poorer / noiser when people spiral the wires ?
its a receiver pack (5cells)
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Old 12-10-2006, 02:40 PM   #22386
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Do you have to charge it before you play ?

Sorry for asking again...... I'm really blind for 1/12 scale.
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Old 12-10-2006, 02:48 PM   #22387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Do you have to charge it before you play ?

Sorry for asking again...... I'm really blind for 1/12 scale.
i charge it every other run it doesnt take that long for it to charge
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Old 12-10-2006, 02:54 PM   #22388
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OK , I got it now.

It's a must item then.

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:07 PM   #22389
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Quote:
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OK , I got it now.

It's a must item then.

Thanks
its not a must item , in mod i have it just in case,(with the spektrum i dont want it to go into fail safe mode)never used one with a 19t motor
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:14 PM   #22390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
its not a must item , in mod i have it just in case, (with the spektrum i dont want it to go into fail safe mode) never used one with a 19t motor
I'm still in shock remembering my car took off this afternoon as soon as I give full throttle, the car just wooshhh ....... and I get no chance to correct it, whatever the culprit it was.
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:17 PM   #22391
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Well, could someone be on your channel??
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Old 12-10-2006, 03:54 PM   #22392
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Would y'all mind sharing your favorites for threded axles and perhaps why you like them? I am tired of the clips and am going to upgrade but would like to make an informed decision.
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Old 12-10-2006, 04:18 PM   #22393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Would y'all mind sharing your favorites for threded axles and perhaps why you like them? I am tired of the clips and am going to upgrade but would like to make an informed decision.
Team Riemon and CRC make the best ones. Both are Ti and have shouders on the axle that prevent the axle from being driven into the spindle and tightening up your bearings.

Parma makes a good steel axle that is the same as the Riemon and CRC units.
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Old 12-10-2006, 04:51 PM   #22394
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does anyone make lowered front olds school arms? I would do them myself but am not good with a mill.
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Old 12-10-2006, 04:53 PM   #22395
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hey guys,just want to give you an update on the testing with our new 1/12th car that we did today.i went to the track with Paul Wynn today to do some asphalt testing.i started out with a somewhat standard style setup and the car was pretty good.it seemed to carry a ton of speed through the corners but was a little nervous exiting the tight sections.i made a few changes for the first heat and had paul run the car.he Tq'ed the first round and the car was alot more stable in the tight sections.i ran the car the second heat and the car felt really good but i felt it could use a slight bit more steering.i made a couple small changes for the main and had Paul take the car out for the main.He wound up setting the fastest lap ever done on the track by .4 seconds. the car really came to life in the main.we finally nailed the setup for the car.the biggest thing that impressed me was how the car does not double steer at all.if it has a push in will have a smoothe push.once we got the set up we liked, the car did not need much steering input to make the corners.it carried insane amounts of speed through the corners which took alot of load off the motor.the motor came off the track about 35 degrees cooler than it did with my T plate car.i am very pleased with this car.my first time out with it on asphalt ever and i was less than 3 seconds off of my best 8 minute run with my T bar car.i did this run before the set up was established.i am confident that i can beat my fast time now after seeing how it ran in the main.i was able to run the car floored through a bumpy section of the track that was sending the T bar cars airborn.i am at the point now of getting things ready for production.i am extremnely satisfied with the progress we made today in just 5 battery packs.i have never been able to manipulate a cars handling as easy as i did today.the car is extremely tunable and reacts very well to the changes.now i cant wait to try it on the rug again.i learned alot in a very short amount of time today.things are only going to get much better.i think that i will be able to get a box stock setup for this car with 1-2 more racedays.as of right now it is already better than i expected.i never experienced mass amounts of controlable steering.usually when i have too much steering i have a hard time driving the car.when i drove the car today i felt that i can almost feel what it is doing.i am very pleased and will be moving forward with starting production.very good results.
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