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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-07-2006, 03:53 PM   #22321
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hmm,not sure yet.
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:10 PM   #22322
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if you guys can,let me know what you think of the look of the c/f on the car.it is the new stuff i am going to try out.it has a much tighter weave than standard c/f.
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:19 PM   #22323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
if you guys can,let me know what you think of the look of the c/f on the car.it is the new stuff i am going to try out.it has a much tighter weave than standard c/f.
looks good, but whats the difference between the tighter weave and standard weave (other then the obvious weave difference)?
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:21 PM   #22324
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the smaller weave is also a little thinner than the standard stuff.it allows for more core material adding to its strength
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:23 PM   #22325
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let me rephrase that.the external layer of c/f is purely cosmetic,the internal unidirectional fibers found in the core are the majority of the materials strength.the thinner exterior layer allows for more unidirectional material.
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:27 PM   #22326
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which results in....? stiffer overall? less likely to delaminate upon impacts? additional speed due to "bling" factor?
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Old 12-07-2006, 04:41 PM   #22327
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it feels a slight bit more rigid from the standard.i cant say if it will hold up much better but i would imagine it may.it seems to be about the same torsional strength but is harder to bend which is why i wanted to try it out.the 1/12th cars need as much bend resistance as possible being that they dont have a top deck.as far as the bling,i thought it looked pretty cool.now i wanna see if you guys like it.if not then i wont use it.i will go with the more conventional c/f.i liked the properties of the material.
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:01 PM   #22328
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I don't quite understand your "anti bend" statement. It would seem that the concept that is commonly used for touring cars would also stand true for 12th scales. a.k.a. wet noodle for low traction and brick for high traction. But then again, TCs don't have a center shock to counter fore to aft flexing. arrgh, my tiny brain hurts.
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:15 PM   #22329
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That's when the T-Plate comes in, if I am not mistaken.
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:17 PM   #22330
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the difference with 1/12th is that torsional flex is usually not a big problem being the the rear pivots or flexes.this will absorb most of your flex that you would have in the chassis.you still want the chassis pretty stiff but it is not nearly as important as it is in touring car.for the chassis not to bend(longitudinal strength) is very important in my oppinion because this can take away from the front suspension and cause it to not be consistant being that your chassis can bend when you go over bumps.i always try to have a car pretty stiff so it can have a more consistant feel.after testing on a few asphalt tracks,i found that excessive chassis flex actually hurt the car.it makes it very hard to plant the front and makes the car very inconsistant.i have a chassis i made for my Tplate car out of 2.25mm carbon fiber and found that i liked it best for asphalt over a 2mm and a 2.5mm.the 2mm i didnt care for in the slightest.it had a real strange feel to it.the 2.25 and 2.5 felt very similar but my tire wear and lap times were a tic faster with the 2.25mm chassis.i feel alot of this had to do with the roll center change and not flex being that i cut all 3 chassis to have similar flex characteristics.in touring car it is a whole different ballgame.shocks do all the work and chassis flex can work to your advantage on low bite tracks.higher bite requires a more rigid setup to eliminate the mechanical traction created by the chassis flex.
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:50 PM   #22331
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When ever I look at the car again, I can see a million new ways that it could be them best 1/12th scale on the market. The only thing that bothers me is there is no tweak plate (or am I blind).
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:53 PM   #22332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senna555
Anyone have pics of josh's (cefx) latest car. The pics are not on his website but car is listed for sale.

Jamie
http://www.rc50.com/modules/coppermi...6/PICT3538.JPG
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:54 PM   #22333
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Also, is it going to have pre-beveled battery slots when in production version? And, what is its name?
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:07 PM   #22334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hey guys,here are some pics of the new prototype that i will be testing this weekend.dont mind the short standoffs on the rear pivots.they are just there temporarily until i got to the shop to put the nuts on.

let me know what you think
J that has Uber-Sexy written all over it!! I'll PM ya for one of the first runs
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:11 PM   #22335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93
When ever I look at the car again, I can see a million new ways that it could be them best 1/12th scale on the market. The only thing that bothers me is there is no tweak plate (or am I blind).

i run it with no tweak screws for asphalt.the rear mounting works similar to the yokomo t plate block that had the front of the t plate mount to it and removed the tweak screws.right now i have it with no screws so it is at its softest.the car does not get tweaked and the flex plates do not get fatigued because there is not as much stress on it as a t plate has.the plates slightly twist and slightly bend for spring tension and there is a very slight dead spot where the plates just support the rear with minimal tension.this is at the soft setting.now you can add the tweak screws to change the length of the plate that flexes for more spring tension.the nice part is that it will be extremely difficult to break the flex plates being that they are designed to work with eachother and relieve the side load under impact.i am still working on a name for the car.i should have it soon.

i also want to let you know that i am using the older pod setup from my db 12 on the kit for testing.i am working on a real sleek rear pod for the new car.i will post pics of that real soon.
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