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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-07-2006, 11:15 AM   #22306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
I believe the foam bumper is from yokomo
I'm sure the Kawada and Yokomo bumpers are fine, but I've found parts can be difficult to obtain from these companies. Slapmaster has a nice foam bumper that should be easy to get, if he still makes it. Perhaps Brian can post whether it is available and how to order.
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Old 12-07-2006, 11:16 AM   #22307
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Quote:
I bought another and I am dripping paint across it as we speak. I have another series race this weekend in Tri-Cities and then in Minot, ND the next. I plan on having this one with me!
Any details on the Minot race...I am about 5 hours NE of Minot and may be interested in driving down for a weekend.
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Old 12-07-2006, 12:07 PM   #22308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WinnipegRacer
Any details on the Minot race...I am about 5 hours NE of Minot and may be interested in driving down for a weekend.
I just notice your signature.........

Nice TEAMS you got there
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Old 12-07-2006, 12:20 PM   #22309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
I believe the foam bumper is from yokomo
Dude...... yesterday night at my girlfriend home, ...... I give some little test with GTB 3.5R + Paragon . The car is awesome even on marble floors. I can give full throttle @45 degree steering without spin !!! I can hear the tires were squealing but no circling ...... cool ya
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Old 12-07-2006, 12:46 PM   #22310
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You bet I have bumpers. I am making up a bunch right now. I can sell direct or you can go to Ashford Hobby: www.ashfordhobby.com Please email me for further details, emails at the bottom.

Scottrik set me up with all the details about the Minot Race. It's Dec 15-17 in a big industrial wharehouse with heated floors. They say t-shirt weather inside, substantially cooler outside. I heard that they had nearly 30 12th scale stock drivers last year for their inaugural. Didn't hear how many mods. I have an email contact for Mitch Witteman: flexiflyernemesis@yahoo.co ... maybe "com" off of the flyer that I can not paste/copy into this forum for some reason. It sounds like a ton of fun and I am looking forward to it. I am going to meet up with Scottrik in Billings and then road trip over. I have not found any other chatter about it. Maybe we'll just make some here!
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:02 PM   #22311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WinnipegRacer
Any details on the Minot race...I am about 5 hours NE of Minot and may be interested in driving down for a weekend.

Hey Winnipeg Racer,

Our Race in Minot ND will be on Friday 15th thru Sunday 17th of December. Will be running 12th stock & mod and Sedan stock & mod. Doors open for practice on Friday at 6 pm until the last person with a key leaves. Saturday doors open at 8 am and qualifying starts at noon. Open at 8 am on Sunday again with racing to start at 10 am. We might do all four rounds of qualifying on Saturday with a break before the last round because on Sunday we will be running triple mains for everybody. Entry fee is $25 per class for late entries, but since you didn't hear about the race from a flyer or a friend in time, we can more than likely cut you some slack on that. The race location is Degelman Industries Inc at 205 46th Ave NE, Minot, ND, just off of highway 83 on the north side of Minot. If you go east at the last stoplight heading north out of town it will be on the left hand(north) side of the road. I think you can find the flyer for the race in the regional forums(Minnesota/North & South Dakota) under the Northern Mini Racers thread.

Thanks for your interest and have a great weekend!!

Mitch Witteman

I almost forgot, you do need a personal transponder, if you do not have one I am sure some of the other racers will have one that you can use.
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:08 PM   #22312
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We are also very excited that another car builder will be showing up at our race. One of our club members has one of the earlier versions of the car that the slapmaster builds, by the way what is the latest version of the car called?



There is something up with the flyer that is posted on the net, the person who assembled it locked it or something and people have had a tough time moving or pasting it to other pages.
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:13 PM   #22313
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Good luck at your race Mitch!
Sounds like a great facility.
Watch out for the taxicabs!!
Take care, Shaggy
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:36 PM   #22314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
I won & TQ'ed the 2nd leg of our NW Indoor Carpet Series at Peel-It in Marysville, Wa a couple of weeks ago with one in 19t class. I ran a Speed 8 all through practice and screwed on a fresh HD in the first heat. I actually thought that it pushed just a "tick" more then the 8 which would explain the High Downforce part of the body. I cut the little vents out to let the air up and out. That body was provided by Korey Harbkey via Paul. Korey was not able to run 12th that weekend, so I was the lucky dog. I thought the body had a good feeling across the board and did not seem to get that steering expo feeling like the 8 does. My first impression of the 8 was the slower you went, the more it turned in... the faster you went, the more it pushed. That might just be me.

I bought another and I am dripping paint across it as we speak. I have another series race this weekend in Tri-Cities and then in Minot, ND the next. I plan on having this one with me!


I ran my new MS2.3A tonight at Rain City. The new steering rack seemed to work very well. At one point, I was on track record pace held by Trav Schreven (that little fast dude!) but failed to pull it off. By the end of the evening, the car was about as good as it gets. The Flex Plate kept the lap times low, the steering did what was required of it.
I like the steering rack setup. It must make it easier to optimize steering geometry.
How does that Tbar setup work? I see a pivot ball in the front with regular tweak screws and a solid plate under the rear pod mounting screws. But what's that in the place of the rear pivot ball assembly?
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:00 PM   #22315
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The steering rack seemed to work just fine for it's first time out. I had two ideas going; get the geometry corrected from a typical laydown servo and to "mass centralize" the chassis. Some benefits are that the esc & servo are about the same weight, so the chassis balances even better. I have the rack built with adjustable Ackerman. It's a turntable device under the carbon. Remove the two ball studs, spin the disc to the next spot and re-install the balls. I feel the geometry is more in tune with a servo in mounts, but without the upward swing of your outside link. It allows me to remove all shims under the steering arm ball studs out at the wheels. I think its kind of ugly, but it does the job quit nicely. I did not really dig into the set up possibilities last night. I mostly "shook it down". Strangely, the two o-rings I used to tighten up some of the linkage slop caused enough of a bind that caused some centering issues. Once removed, it cleared right up and you would never know that you had anything different then a traditional servo saver. I feel that I did take just a little weight off of the front end as I had to slide the bats forward a little. By the end of the evening, I was real happy with the car. So far, this is just a personal project and I do not intend to sell the steering rack system... unless I get overwhelmed with requests. I just know you guys like to look at the "new & strange".

Here's a little write up that I have started working on for the Flex Plate. They should be available mid Jan.

This new design Flex Plate takes place of the rear pivot socket of T-Bar cars. It bolts to the four holes in the t-bar with a flexible center hole for the chassis screw. Coned spacers perfectly position the t-bar to original heights and are the same thickness so that braces and cross braces will still fit. The Flex Plate moves the pivot center of the t-bar to the bottom, creating more grip over the course of eight minutes. For TQ or Jack the Gripper tracks, this will be a must have, solving that last few laps of loose race car. The Flex Plate is offered a few ways; "Standard Kit #113" will have the flex plate, 4 x 2/56 nuts & the spacers. The "Deluxe Kit #113R or B" will have the flex plate, then either red (R) or blue (B) anodized 2/56 screws, 2/56 nuts, & spacers. Lower your lap times now!
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:05 PM   #22316
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I just know you guys like to look at the "new & strange".

Brian post up personal pics.......
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:20 PM   #22317
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Anyone have pics of josh's (cefx) latest car. The pics are not on his website but car is listed for sale.

Jamie
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Old 12-07-2006, 02:50 PM   #22318
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<---aspires to let Mitch, Jari, Randy, LLoyd, only lap him 4 times.

Bohlman... I plan to lap him, maybe, 8-9 times...
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Old 12-07-2006, 03:50 PM   #22319
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hey guys,here are some pics of the new prototype that i will be testing this weekend.dont mind the short standoffs on the rear pivots.they are just there temporarily until i got to the shop to put the nuts on.

let me know what you think
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Old 12-07-2006, 03:52 PM   #22320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hey guys,here are some pics of the new prototype that i will be testing this weekend.dont mind the short standoffs on the rear pivots.they are just there temporarily until i got to the shop to put the nuts on.

let me know what you think
Would you call it an L Bar car????


Looks really interesting....
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