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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-28-2006, 07:59 PM   #22096
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Here's More pictures.
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:09 PM   #22097
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keep your eye's out for this car
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:17 PM   #22098
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Which car is that Customworks?
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:21 PM   #22099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Please read my response again Alex--I said I was "stumped" (as in "don't know"), not that I or anyone else was "stupid" (as in "probably CAN'T know"). I agree wholeheartedly with you that the dumbest question is the one that isn't asked.

As far as taps--I've found through experience (some of it not inexpensive) that some things are appropriate (and I think beneficial) to tap and others are very definitely not. Beneficial things seem to be those that are actually "tightened", like the lower arm mount screws (8-32 RH), upper arm mounts to lower arm mounting screws (4-40 RH), stub axles (6-40 LH), antenna mount to chassis (4-40 RH) etc. Things you DO NOT want to tap are the camber turnbuckles, I ruined a pair of CRC machined delrin arms doing this--the turnbuckle wallows around in the arm now.

Scottrik
Ah I missed that one .......my apologies Scottrik ......and thanks again for all the great info.

Best Regards,

Alex Cortez
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:13 PM   #22100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
what type car did the winner use in mod? masters?

anyone know out of the 40 cars used in the 4 different class a-mains what the car type/brand choice breakdown was? Tires? Motors? Batterys?
quick car count (unofficial)...

40 A-main cars in 1/12th scale

24 - CRC
2 - Assoc
4 - CEFX
6 - Speedmerchant
2 - Flexi
1 - Corally
1 - Darkside
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:19 PM   #22101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Which car is that Customworks?
that is the darkside MX12 a sweet ride check www.darksidemotorsports.com a love mine!!!!
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:56 PM   #22102
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Yeah that Darkside MX12 is nice...though the link doesn't show anything about RC it seems. It's getting a lot closer to what I'm looking for in a 1/12th. I'd prefer a pivotball/link setup like the CRC though. It's so much easer to setup then having to adjust link lengths. I got tired of doing that back on my EV10.
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:16 AM   #22103
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Hi

Well, No.
I don't have one yet! I want to review the car and front end but as yet I have no car.

On the other hand. Right now I am concentrating on the TFource. I ran my first race ever with a T bar car at Teeside a couple of weeks ago. I have just started my third year of 1/12th racing and have only ever run CRC link cars. I started with the 3.2R and then moved onto the CRC team prototype of the GenX.

So.. I wanted to look at T bar car setup and understand what is going on there.

I will write more on the Gen X when I have one ;-)

Mark



Quote:
Originally Posted by bigb11
Mark, have you raced the new Gen-x car? if so what you think of it?
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:16 AM   #22104
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Mike, run 3 screws on the t-bar. You wont be so hard on them Unless you home track is a roller coaster, you should be able to set up an .075 with all 3 screws to create a very durable race car. IMO

You have an incrediable sticker tallent that I envy!
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Old 11-29-2006, 12:25 AM   #22105
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Hi

Well I always shim the rear out to 172mm. I pop over to the scrutineers's measurement box and do it leaving a margin for error so I dont get DQ'ed from a run.

Width the front... narrow gives more steeing and wider is the opposite. However, I like a car that has as much steeing as possible and generally I run the front wheels with no spacers on the inside.

Remember that this is on the CRC front axles which have the collar spacing the wheel out slightly. If you were runing the simple associated axles you would be able to go a little narrower still.

Cheers

Mark


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10
Mark Payne - I missed the part about the springs being off the chassis. However it makes sense since the Corally car prior to the 12M did not have tweek screws in it. If the tires were true, and the front chassis height correct, it tracked very easy and straight. I'll have to try that on the T-Fource and maybe the Gen-X

I do have another question for you as to the affect that track width has on the car. If the rear is at max width, a narrow front will make the car do what? If equal front and rear, then what??

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:50 AM   #22106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
that is the darkside MX12 a sweet ride check www.darksidemotorsports.com a love mine!!!!
that car is the Mx2 and the website is www.darksidems.com
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:08 AM   #22107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Yeah that Darkside MX12 is nice...though the link doesn't show anything about RC it seems. It's getting a lot closer to what I'm looking for in a 1/12th. I'd prefer a pivotball/link setup like the CRC though. It's so much easer to setup then having to adjust link lengths. I got tired of doing that back on my EV10.
That's link was incorrect, the correct web address is www.darksidems.com . I've got something in the works that will make the side link adjustments very easy.

-E
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:34 AM   #22108
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Anyone use bearing "crush" collars in the front wheels? If so, who sells them?

Guy at the track Sunday was asking for them and I've never used them in a 12th scale car before.
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:30 AM   #22109
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I haven't run across crush collars in a long time, but I remember that Bud's (BRP) used to sell them in both 1/8" and 3/16" sizes for 1/12 and 1/10 pan cars.
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Old 11-29-2006, 11:22 AM   #22110
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Can someone explain the difference between a angled dampner tube and a straight tube? which one has less roll and which one would be better for high bite and low bite tracks.I want my car to corner flat in the turns.
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