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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-28-2006, 11:54 AM   #22081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanisK
There should be atleast few who could point to the right direction.
Couple questions...How did you have the batteries? Forward or Rearward position?

That's weird you had more steering with purple than double pink. Keep the purples on up front and...

- Add some lube to the front king pins (CRC White/Blue or AE 30K weight lube)
- Get rid of the shim under the front t-ball and try the car.
- If it is still oversteering mid-run go to .20 front springs.
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Old 11-28-2006, 01:59 PM   #22082
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Is it possible the xx Pinks are too much traction for that set up and skipping along the carpet with the springs being a bit softer?
The purples have always been fave's of mine coupled with either white rears or grey rears depending on the carpet and the traction additive being allowed.
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:10 PM   #22083
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Mark Payne, thanks for all of the info you have posted.

If I understand correctly you are not letting the rear tweak springs touch the rear plate untill the car starts to rotate about the roll center on the main chassis. If I have the front suspension square and true to the main chassis, the motor pod will just follow the front end and there will be no dampning from the springs or tube unless the car is cornering.

I was always told to use just a little preload on the tweak springs to keep the car even.

If I loosen the springs will I feel a difference in the handling?
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:11 PM   #22084
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Smile CRC Delrin Steering Block

Question???? Do you need to sand down the small indent in the CRC Delrin steering block that was made during the installation of the front Titanium axle.

Any help would be great.


Thanks Again,

Alex
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:20 PM   #22085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
Question???? Do you need to sand down the small indent in the CRC Delrin steering block that was made during the installation of the front Titanium axle.
I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to, but I'll have a go.

If you're talking about the little material that "blisters up" when you run the threads in for the first time, then yes I always trim the surface back flush. Probably no difference, but easy to do and I don't have to worry about it. For the axles I've taken to pre-threading the blocks with a LH 6-40 tap before installing the axles which eliminates this concern altogether.

The thing you DEFINITELY want to do is run a 1/8" reamer down the kingpin hole after you've got the axle tightened into place. It removes VERY little material--you can run it through with your fingers--but if you try the kingpins through the blocks before and after you'll notice a substantial reduction in drag, thus eliminating a potential for holding adverse tweak.

hth,

Scottrik
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:40 PM   #22086
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fast-ho-cars and Apex thanxs for your answers
next time i go to track ill give a try to your recommendations
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
Couple questions...How did you have the batteries? Forward or Rearward position?

That's weird you had more steering with purple than double pink. Keep the purples on up front and...

- Add some lube to the front king pins (CRC White/Blue or AE 30K weight lube)
- Get rid of the shim under the front t-ball and try the car.
- If it is still oversteering mid-run go to .20 front springs.
Batteries are in rearward position
I have always had it like that - noticeable understeering when its pink rears and double pink fronts, at least with my setup.

next time i go to track ill give a try to your recommendations
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:13 PM   #22087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollover
Mark Payne, thanks for all of the info you have posted.

If I understand correctly you are not letting the rear tweak springs touch the rear plate untill the car starts to rotate about the roll center on the main chassis.

Yes... this has been what I have been doing reciently. Allow the springs to "touch down and then back them off 1/4 of a turn.

If I have the front suspension square and true to the main chassis, the motor pod will just follow the front end and there will be no dampning from the springs or tube unless the car is cornering.

Yes, in running the springs "off touchdown" you cannot tweak the car using them. You must use the king pin shims to get the chassis flat. Before you do this you will want reference the front axle heights as the associated front A arms have the habit of being different. I document this on my site.

I was always told to use just a little preload on the tweak springs to keep the car even.

So was I!

If I loosen the springs will I feel a difference in the handling?

The car will not be so twitchy over the bumps and should be more stable. Try it and tell us what you think, remember 1/4 turn will do it.
Cheers

Mark
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:41 PM   #22088
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Mark, have you raced the new Gen-x car? if so what you think of it?
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:09 PM   #22089
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Mark Payne - I missed the part about the springs being off the chassis. However it makes sense since the Corally car prior to the 12M did not have tweek screws in it. If the tires were true, and the front chassis height correct, it tracked very easy and straight. I'll have to try that on the T-Fource and maybe the Gen-X

I do have another question for you as to the affect that track width has on the car. If the rear is at max width, a narrow front will make the car do what? If equal front and rear, then what??

Thanks
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:23 PM   #22090
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Smile

Quote:
If you're talking about the little material that "blisters up" when you run the threads in for the first time, then yes I always trim the surface back flush. Probably no difference, but easy to do and I don't have to worry about it. For the axles I've taken to pre-threading the blocks with a LH 6-40 tap before installing the axles which eliminates this concern altogether.
Scottrik,

I do indeed have a small blister on the bottom my Steering Blocks .......the concern I had was due to the small blister I was wondering if I should sand them down evenly across with some sand paper??

Thanks Again for all your help.

Best Regards,

Alex Cortez
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:44 PM   #22091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
I do indeed have a small blister on the bottom my Steering Blocks .......the concern I had was due to the small blister I was wondering if I should sand them down evenly across with some sand paper??
I'm not sure about anything on the "bottom" of the block. The material I'm referring to is the little blister of deformed material AT the hole where you thread the axle in that may not allow the "nut" part of the axle to sit flush with the block--that's what I removed.

Can you send me a picture on scottrik@noisymuse.com?

Does it go away when you remove the axle? The fit of the block is pretty tight around the axle so you'd expect some deformation here and there just running the axle in. That's why I use a tap on these.

Guess I'm stumped.

Scottrik
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:05 PM   #22092
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Thanks Mark, with your tips I should'nt hit the boards quite as hard this weekend!
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:06 PM   #22093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
I'm not sure about anything on the "bottom" of the block. The material I'm referring to is the little blister of deformed material AT the hole where you thread the axle in that may not allow the "nut" part of the axle to sit flush with the block--that's what I removed.

Can you send me a picture on scottrik@noisymuse.com?

Does it go away when you remove the axle? The fit of the block is pretty tight around the axle so you'd expect some deformation here and there just running the axle in. That's why I use a tap on these.

Guess I'm stumped.

Scottrik
Scottrik,

I feel using a tap is a good thing.......I Just did not have one at the time.

As to the small indent that had ocured on the bottom of the block due to threading in the axle....I willl just have to sand that portion down.

As to "Guess I'm stuppid" remark........I feel that forum members ask for advice on things they have never incountered due to being new to the class or what have you.......I feel that the only stupid question is the question not asked.

I would only encourage to discuss the topic for those who had the similar issue....to only bring out further suggestions.

Thanks Again,

Alex Cortez
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:40 PM   #22094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
As to "Guess I'm stuppid" remark........I feel that forum members ask for advice on things they have never incountered due to being new to the class or what have you.......I feel that the only stupid question is the question not asked.

I would only encourage to discuss the topic for those who had the similar issue....to only bring out further suggestions.
Please read my response again Alex--I said I was "stumped" (as in "don't know"), not that I or anyone else was "stupid" (as in "probably CAN'T know"). I agree wholeheartedly with you that the dumbest question is the one that isn't asked.

As far as taps--I've found through experience (some of it not inexpensive) that some things are appropriate (and I think beneficial) to tap and others are very definitely not. Beneficial things seem to be those that are actually "tightened", like the lower arm mount screws (8-32 RH), upper arm mounts to lower arm mounting screws (4-40 RH), stub axles (6-40 LH), antenna mount to chassis (4-40 RH) etc. Things you DO NOT want to tap are the camber turnbuckles, I ruined a pair of CRC machined delrin arms doing this--the turnbuckle wallows around in the arm now.

Scottrik
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:52 PM   #22095
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Default IRS Rug Rat 1/12th L3/L4 Conversion

Hey Guy's check out this car, I recently got to Try out Irrgang's Racing Rugrat.Its a conversion kit for the Associated 12L3/L4 and Associated style cars.

I got to test it out at one of my local tracks I race at I was very impressed how it handled.Check out the pictures below.


Here's the link to the conversion:
Part numbers are
IRS4000
IRS4000BL (Blue Chassis conversion)

http://www.teamirsrc.com/12scale.html
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-irs4000.jpg   1/12 forum-irs4000bl.jpg   1/12 forum-img_0757.jpg   1/12 forum-img_0751.jpg   1/12 forum-img_0756.jpg  

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