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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-13-2003, 05:54 AM   #2191
dtm
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Default Corally SP12M

I was wondering if anyone has tried to run their SP12M without the centre anti-roll piece which bridge the two A-arms at the front. And running the 2 A-arm pivot points at the front? Just wondering what the effect would be??

I haven't quite figured out how to set camber on this car yet!?
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Old 01-13-2003, 09:24 AM   #2192
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
I'm planning on getting a Associated 12L3 to race on a carpet track. I was wondering what is a good cheap servo to put in it. I was looking for something with a transit time around .10, with ok torque. I'll be racing 1/12 stock, maybe 1/12 mod every once in a while. What are some good starting tires as well. Thanks.

-Sushi Boy
JR Z3550. .11 sec/38 oz..... plenty for 1/12th scale. Also inexpensive, about $62. Only problem is it's so small you'll have to drill another hole for the servo mount. Are you going to be racing at Raincity?
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Old 01-13-2003, 05:09 PM   #2193
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I was wondering what parts you tend to brake the most and if they are very expensive? also what batteries do you use?
Thanks

Last edited by blue micro; 01-13-2003 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 01-13-2003, 05:30 PM   #2194
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DTM - you bring up and interesting point. The major portion of the load for the front suspension is carried by that piece between the two A-arms. I was thinking the real question would be "Who has run this car without the front springs?" I know people that have taken the brace and cut it down to get the amount of flex they need for the type surface they race on. I have one of the cars and substituted the fiberglass version in place of the graphite piece to get more flexibility. But, your right about the camber. Unless the team drivers are really clever about how to adjust it, they must not worry about it. The car is pretty cool, but not my real race ride. I just mess with it to clean out the cobwebs now and then.
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Old 01-13-2003, 10:30 PM   #2195
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Davidl- I'm running the thin fibreglass piece also. The strange thing is that, even though I am running 0 deg camber when the car is static, there is a fairly high camber change once the suspension is compressed that my front tires come out with "even" wear! I think this is by luck rather than design!

Maybe when I get bored I will do the mod to the front to get rid of that centre piece. I guess effectively it will be like returning to the older G3 front suspension with a single front pivot. However, on the SP12M it will be independent L/H suspension!
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Old 01-13-2003, 11:47 PM   #2196
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blue micro, I think that the most common part that breaks would be the t-bar, it is about $5. For batteries most people are running the 3300s, but you can still run 3000s in stock without any worries if they are good packs. 3300s are the way to go.
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Old 01-14-2003, 02:00 AM   #2197
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4 cells mod. comm wear

hi,

I wonder how often did you have to cut your commutator on the 4 cells mod? I'm thinking about 11T-12T right now. I had tried 4 cells with 23T stock and it's a little faster than 6 cells stock touring car. Not very fast by 12th standard. Actually it's speed was well suited to the indoor track that I usually run and my driving skill but I want a little more speed for another outdoor track. I don't need exact number,just want to know if I could afford the expense of running them . Thanks.

tifosi
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Old 01-14-2003, 05:26 AM   #2198
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DTM - I think the chassis has mounting holes that the older swing beam suspension can be mounted to the SP12M.
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Old 01-17-2003, 02:59 AM   #2199
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I just picked up a RC12L3 and the manual states gearing for a stock motor is between 24 and 26 with the 75 tooth spur. But it looks like nothing bigger than a 16-18 would fit! The motor is resting aginst the t-bar. Im running a trinity 19t motor, so I figure gearing wouldn't vary too much from stock. Any ideas?
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Old 01-17-2003, 02:25 PM   #2200
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rcdougie, this is straight off of associated's site:


I recently purchased a RC12L3 kit and am very pleased with the car, however, on page 15 of the manual, it gives suggested motor gearing ratios for the 75T (48P)spur gear supplied with the kit. Please explain why, when the spur gear is fitted to the axle, there is no way the 26T pinion suggested will fit because you can't get the motor far enough forward as it hits on the rear pod.

We did not make it clear, and we apologize, but you will need to get the Kimbrough Racing Products offset ride height adjusters and/or use a smaller spur gear.


hope this helps with your problem
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Old 01-17-2003, 02:39 PM   #2201
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It probably isnt ROAR legal but I have an idea to make the Bentley Speed 8 12th scale body look a bit more authentic. anybody wanna hear it?
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Old 01-17-2003, 02:44 PM   #2202
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Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
It probably isnt ROAR legal but I have an idea to make the Bentley Speed 8 12th scale body look a bit more authentic. anybody wanna hear it?
OK...what is is?
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Old 01-17-2003, 04:28 PM   #2203
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ok sure, go for it, i'd like to hear it.
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Old 01-17-2003, 05:47 PM   #2204
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
JR Z3550. .11 sec/38 oz..... plenty for 1/12th scale. Also inexpensive, about $62. Only problem is it's so small you'll have to drill another hole for the servo mount. Are you going to be racing at Raincity?
Yes, I will racing at Rain City. I race there in Open Stock Sedan. I usually use a Atsushi Hara style body on a xxx-s.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 01-18-2003, 07:33 PM   #2205
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Default Kimbrough

Does any have the part #s for the offset height adjusters or have the name and location of some who sells them.

Thanks Terry.
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