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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-26-2006, 10:30 AM   #22021
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I am new to 12th scale and am looking for some advise regarding what kit to buy. I'm sure this has been done many times over but i'd like some input. I am interested in the following kits any info would be much appreciated. I've raced sedan for many years but a carpet track has popped up in my area so on to 12th scale. Thanks

1. CEFX c12 (newest version with the assc. front end)
2. CRC Generation X
3. CRC T fource
4. Associated 12l4
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Old 11-26-2006, 10:49 AM   #22022
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Default Carpet car

For carpet the non t-plate cars seem to be best. I just saw the CRC gen-x in hand this weekend and it is the bomb . But there are many other brands that are just as good and then you could just add the new front end and away you go. I'm running a speedmerchant and a CRC 3.1 right now and thanks to the help I received from members here both were dialed from the first lap. .

Chris
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:13 PM   #22023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i just did testing with our prototype kit yesterday at an indoor carpet race we had down here yesterday.the new rear suspension we are testing proved to work extremely well.with a field of about 30 1/12th drivers that are all very good including the 19 turn national champion and the and the guy who TQ'ed the nationals,the A main were all high end guys.i qualified 6th in the A main and finished 2nd and less than a second behind the leader.i will be fine tuning the car now and making the minor changes for the final prototype.the new rear suspension felt exactly like a T Plate car in the corners but stayed flat over the bumps.i was very impressed with the new car.this car will be released as a full car and possibly a conversion later on this coming year.i will have pics up here shortly.there was alot of interest in the car here this weekend.i got preorders on them now without even refining the prototype. i am very excited about the release of the new car.i think you will all be very impressed.

P.S. i will be keeping the price to a minimum on this car.i do not want to see 1/12th get out of hand like TC did.street price will be 200 or less.
This new car is awesome , very FAST!!!

dont forget to put me on the list!!
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:20 PM   #22024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tff014
I am new to 12th scale and am looking for some advise regarding what kit to buy. I'm sure this has been done many times over but i'd like some input. I am interested in the following kits any info would be much appreciated. I've raced sedan for many years but a carpet track has popped up in my area so on to 12th scale. Thanks

1. CEFX c12 (newest version with the assc. front end)
2. CRC Generation X
3. CRC T fource
4. Associated 12l4

With 12th you really just need to see what your LHS stocks/supports. They are all pretty close, if you start with a 12l4 a ton of people (BMI,CRC,ect.) offer a conversion. Dont think one car is gonna out-do another it's set-up and driving more than anything .
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:21 PM   #22025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
With 12th you really just need to see what your LHS stocks/supports. They are all pretty close, if you start with a 12l4 a ton of people (BMI,CRC,ect.) offer a conversion. Dont think one car is gonna out-do another it's set-up and driving more than anything .
get ready Jon for the weekend , Im running 1/12th scale with you!!
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:23 PM   #22026
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Default T Bar Chat

Posting my reply to a TBar question for general discussion

Cheers

Mark
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogtsaamokin
Mark, I read your tbar thread about just touching the graphite and then coming up 1/8th so it just flops , how then do they adjust there tweak???

Thanks Roger T
Arh well.. interesting isnt it?

Well the bottom line is that they dont. Mick Farrell and Andy Griffiths are the two top drivers running in our nationals and I know for a fact that Mick does NOT tweak out his car.

This is also in line with looking at Frank Calandra's CRC ar the worlds. He runs the side springs quite a way off touch down... so also no way to tweak it out using the springs.

The idea is that losening off the rear tbar screws by 1/8th turn (or link car springs) will allow the car to be more stable over small bumps and the general changes in the carpet.

If you use my method in www.12thrc.com to set up the front end, checking front axle height and spring preload, the main chassis will be level when the car is loaded up. If you set the t bar screws so that by eye the rear pod is level to the main chassis (take the motor out to do this the first time). Then it will all be spot on.

I dont use the coins anymore anyway. Like I have said my "the coin trick is not enough" comment, the coins tell you nothing about how the car is sitting on the springs. I am convinced many people have no idea what they are actually measuring when the coins drop.....

I am finding that keeping close tabs on any differences in ride height left to right is the best way of spotting "tweaks" in your setup.

If you allow the rear end to "just" float around the T bar then the attitude of the chassis is only a function of the front suspension and shimming of the king pins. This all assumes your chassis is not bent!

When I have done more work with the T bar car I will write all of this up on the blog.

Hope this helps.

Mark
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:23 PM   #22027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the new rear suspension felt exactly like a T Plate car in the corners but stayed flat over the bumps
The feel of a t-plate car without the worry of actually breaking a t-plate (and tweak issues), that sounds pretty good
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:25 PM   #22028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
The feel of a t-plate car without the worry of actually breaking a t-plate (and tweak issues), that sounds pretty good
wait until you see it Jon, I got a picture of it but I cannot share it
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:26 PM   #22029
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
get ready Jon for the weekend , Im running 1/12th scale with you!!
Yeah 12thy for sure. Me and you are usually pretty close (and a lap or two down on the fast guys )
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:28 PM   #22030
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Yeah 12thy for sure. Me and you are usually pretty close (and a lap or two down on the fast guys )
not this weekend!!
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:37 PM   #22031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Offer it minus the front end so we can order the new CRC Pro-Strut front end.
i will be supplying a blueprinted AE front end with the car.there are things i do not like about the new crc front end.i will be machining the lower arms to make the ball heights the same left to right.you can always add the new crc front end if you like but i see some issues with it that i do not like.
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:40 PM   #22032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i just did testing with our prototype kit yesterday at an indoor carpet race we had down here yesterday.the new rear suspension we are testing proved to work extremely well.with a field of about 30 1/12th drivers that are all very good including the 19 turn national champion and the and the guy who TQ'ed the nationals,the A main were all high end guys.i qualified 6th in the A main and finished 2nd and less than a second behind the leader.i will be fine tuning the car now and making the minor changes for the final prototype.the new rear suspension felt exactly like a T Plate car in the corners but stayed flat over the bumps.i was very impressed with the new car.this car will be released as a full car and possibly a conversion later on this coming year.i will have pics up here shortly.there was alot of interest in the car here this weekend.i got preorders on them now without even refining the prototype. i am very excited about the release of the new car.i think you will all be very impressed.

P.S. i will be keeping the price to a minimum on this car.i do not want to see 1/12th get out of hand like TC did.street price will be 200 or less.
Great! I'll wait for mine. I hold off on a car, any idea on how long before it's released?
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:42 PM   #22033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i will be supplying a blueprinted AE front end with the car.there are things i do not like about the new crc front end.i will be machining the lower arms to make the ball heights the same left to right.you can always add the new crc front end if you like but i see some issues with it that i do not like.
Sounds like a good design you have. Maybe I'll get to check it out soon.

J, check your pm, pleasssseeee.
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:55 PM   #22034
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Originally Posted by RCknight
Great! I'll wait for mine. I hold off on a car, any idea on how long before it's released?
it is very close now.i am shooting for the begining to mid january.i should have some pics in a week or so.i have pics now but it is going to change a little
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:57 PM   #22035
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Hey Mark: Thanks for the awesome website. I just got my 3.2R and your website just awnsered all of my questions. Thankyou.

Roger Serafin
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