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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-23-2006, 12:41 PM   #21991
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anyone have any idea what the shore rating is for the jaco/associated standard green tires you get on the phantom. any one have a list or chart of the others for different makes etc as well that they could post on here . thanks a lot
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Old 11-23-2006, 12:56 PM   #21992
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Old 11-23-2006, 01:08 PM   #21993
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thanks a lot thats spot on
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Old 11-23-2006, 06:47 PM   #21994
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Default YEAH BOY !

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
there is nothing i would love more than to have the 1/12th class get more attention so we can have a big race deicated to them.thanks for the support.i am open for any ideas you guys have to make this the best event possible.
Amen

Keep us posted
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Items for sale:

TURBO GFX>>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329165#post4329165
Tekin Battery Nurse >>>> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4329173#post4329173

Thanks for looking
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:08 PM   #21995
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Default Tweak help

I need some help from you guys on setting the tweak on a 3.1 CRC. I bought it used and have never run this style of chassie before. Just how do you set the tweak?

Thanks
Chris
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:15 PM   #21996
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With the screws above the side springs. The side springs are progressively wound, the further they're driven onto the ball or the pod plate (depending how you're set up) the more pressure they apply to that side of the pod and the opposite side front tire.

Scottrik
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:26 PM   #21997
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Thanks scottrik, I was pretty sure that was the way but wanted to be sure.

Chris
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:00 AM   #21998
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i know someone already asked this question but i can't seem to find it. which lunsford titanium front axles fit the rc12l4?

it would be really handy if there was some sort of 1/12th database with info relating to hop ups, setups and just general tips!
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:37 AM   #21999
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Here's your Lunsford axles Lunsford Racing axles

You might consider this too, which includes pretty much everything for the front of your car (tie rod turnbuckles, camber turnbuckles, kingpins, axles) Lunsford front end kit

Finally--I really like their 8-32 X 1/2" Ti csk screws for mounting my front end to the chassis Lunsford 8-32 X 1/2" since these get loosened and tightened frequently as ride height is adjusted. The advantage to these is they're far tougher than aluminum screws, far lighter than steel screws, and they have a hex head that is much more durable than the Phillips head original screws.

Oh--as far as a database...I thought that was YOUR project...

Scottrik
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Old 11-25-2006, 09:17 AM   #22000
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What is the use of the downstops in the t-bar? what will happen if I screw them in or out? (except travel of course)....

I have a corally sp12x
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Old 11-25-2006, 11:09 AM   #22001
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ive been running nitro touring a while thats what i know how to drive,just started running electric tc.electric is way easier to drive btw,was curious bout driving 12th scale,and setup stuff.looks so easy a caveman could setup a 12th scale?oh yeah what bout price and basics,like whats a hot motor,body,tires etc..
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Old 11-25-2006, 01:49 PM   #22002
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You may fine the info you need here... www.12thrc.com ;-)

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
I need some help from you guys on setting the tweak on a 3.1 CRC. I bought it used and have never run this style of chassie before. Just how do you set the tweak?

Thanks
Chris
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Old 11-25-2006, 01:57 PM   #22003
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Only us Cavemen here...

....we can hardly write so it is unlikely that any of us will respond.

As you are obviously capable of much higher brain function, you should stick to nitro. Thats where all guys with opposable thumbs hang out.

On the other hand... some cave drawings are available at www.12thrc.com

M


Quote:
Originally Posted by intimidator
ive been running nitro touring a while thats what i know how to drive,just started running electric tc.electric is way easier to drive btw,was curious bout driving 12th scale,and setup stuff.looks so easy a caveman could setup a 12th scale?oh yeah what bout price and basics,like whats a hot motor,body,tires etc..
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:06 PM   #22004
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Arh T Bars.

Untill reciently, this was all uncharted territory for me. Now I know more (currently running T fource in "standard" T bar trim).

Advice from top drivers here in the UK is to just allow the T Bar screws to *just* touch down on the chassis and the back them off by about 1/8th of a turn to allow a tiny tiny little amount of pod movement without T bar flex.

You will get a better feel for this without a motor in the pod and without the shock/spring attached.

This is what I have been advised to do and my first time out on a T bar was very nice thankyou!

Cheers

mark





Quote:
Originally Posted by Geforcy
What is the use of the downstops in the t-bar? what will happen if I screw them in or out? (except travel of course)....

I have a corally sp12x
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:29 PM   #22005
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Default Need suggestions for a first time 1/12 scale?

I think I'm interested in a t-plate car. I want a kit with aluminum bulk heads and a more open motor pod design from the top. It must also be durable. Does BMI sell a kit yet? I checked their website and found very little about it. I'm leaning in the AE direction, but I'm still open to it. I plan on running a Novak GTB and a 13.5 brushless. Can it be done in 1/12 scale? Thanks.
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