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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-16-2006, 05:56 PM   #21931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
i read somewhere that people have been having problems with meshing gears on a 12l4 because the pod doesn't allow the motor to move closer to the spur.
i am about to order some 64pitch pinions and i don't want to get stuck with pinoins i can't use.
so my question is what pinions (64p) will not mesh up with a 100t spur on a rc12L4?
anyone?
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:38 PM   #21932
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i use a 100 tooth spur on mine. i only have an issue running 31+ pinions b/c the motor gets caught on the t-bar. i have to grind the t-bar to allow the motor to move far away enough from the spur. i am going to switch to maybe a 92 tooth spur.

hope that helps.

-Zac
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:39 PM   #21933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
anyone?
The problem occurs when trying to use large pinions, so the motor will actually not move far enough from the spur without hitting the t bar. We use 92 or 96 tooth spurs for this reason. With a 100 tooth spur you may have trouble using over a 34 tooth pinion. This can vary somewhat depending on what ride height adjusters you have on the axle.
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:47 PM   #21934
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I'm running an 85 tooth spur, I also have a 78 tooth...
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:48 PM   #21935
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OD

Where did you get the xenon ride height adjusters? Thanks.

BTW Glad you're feeling better.

Oh yeah What's a Crimson Chicken?
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:54 PM   #21936
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Is anyone running brushless ?, I would love a good start point for a GTB3.5 with rollout.....anyone?
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:54 PM   #21937
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In FL we run mostly 19T 1/12th outdoors. Most of us run Komodos at a 1.9 roll out or Money 19t's at a 2.05 roll out. To get that we run 88T or 96T spurs. With a 96 spur you have to bevel the top of the t-bar for motor clearance.

I run a Komodo 28/88 with 1.88" tires and it flys.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:04 PM   #21938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
In FL we run mostly 19T 1/12th outdoors. Most of us run Komodos at a 1.9 roll out or Money 19t's at a 2.05 roll out. To get that we run 88T or 96T spurs. With a 96 spur you have to bevel the top of the t-bar for motor clearance.

I run a Komodo 28/88 with 1.88" tires and it flys.
WOW...you are way undergeared at a 1.9!! We are running that on carpet with the KD's

EA
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:35 PM   #21939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
OD

Where did you get the xenon ride height adjusters? Thanks.

BTW Glad you're feeling better.

Oh yeah What's a Crimson Chicken?
Xenon ride height adjusters from Speedtech RC (look under "Xenon 1/12th scale hop ups" in the "Aftermarket Parts" section) Tip: buy the IRS ride height adjusters and just buy the ones that go between the IRS sizes in the ridiculously expensive Xenon ones.

Thanks! I graduated from chair to stool on the drivers stand last night, wow! I can see much better up there!

The Crimson Chicken is a good friend of mine, I think he's a wino living in the Tenderloin now...
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:42 PM   #21940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
i use a 100 tooth spur on mine. i only have an issue running 31+ pinions b/c the motor gets caught on the t-bar. i have to grind the t-bar to allow the motor to move far away enough from the spur. i am going to switch to maybe a 92 tooth spur.

hope that helps.

-Zac

try to stay away from grinding the T plate. it will change the flex characteristics of the t plate.dont be affraid to use the smaller spurs.i run an 88 spur all the time unless i run mod.i use a 100 tooth spur in mod to allow for a larger pinion for better gear mesh.in stock and 19 turn i use the 88 because it allows me to run a smaller pinion for less rotating mass and also to keep the motor away from the T plate.
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:48 PM   #21941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
WOW...you are way undergeared at a 1.9!! We are running that on carpet with the KD's

EA
Jason and I have tried running higher than 1.90. I went up to 2.10 once and all it did was get hot and go slower. This was in summer on a 150deg track though.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:48 PM   #21942
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I need a servo for a 12th and wanted to get some recommendations.

Thanks
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:09 PM   #21943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreddlox
I need a servo for a 12th and wanted to get some recommendations.

Thanks
Futaba 9650 is an excellent servo. Small, lightweight, digital and can be bought at shops for around 60.00

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Old 11-16-2006, 10:35 PM   #21944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreddlox
I need a servo for a 12th and wanted to get some recommendations.

Thanks
Futaba 9602
JR 3550
KO 949
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:39 PM   #21945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Futaba 9650 is an excellent servo. Small, lightweight, digital and can be bought at shops for around 60.00

EA
this servos are good, except for one thing, if you hit the corners real hard even if you have a servo saver the plastic gears will break inside. it happen to me once and it not good. i was just suprise they put plastic gears on digital instead of metal gear. but i got them fix with a smile again, i'll just have to watch those corners again.

just my 2cents.
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