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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-13-2006, 03:39 AM   #21886
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Just a question...

i had a race last weekend and i was really having problems getting grip out of the corner accelerating.
I really had a lot of understear, since i'm a nooby, what's the general advice to do then...

I've tried more jack the gripper on the front tires, but that made the car roll on corner entry. I've tried to make the center shock harder but that made the car bounce over the bumps.. it was really bumpy

i'm running a crc 3.2R
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Old 11-13-2006, 03:51 AM   #21887
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So you raced at speedworld in the M-auto cup!
I was planning to participate, but couldn't make it, what were the results?
Anyway, to get you good answer you should tell us your set up.
Like tire compound, diameter and such...
Also, where did you had understeer, entry, mid or exit?
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:49 AM   #21888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thraex
So you raced at speedworld in the M-auto cup!
I was planning to participate, but couldn't make it, what were the results?
Anyway, to get you good answer you should tell us your set up.
Like tire compound, diameter and such...
Also, where did you had understeer, entry, mid or exit?
Yep, the speedworld M-auto race
Understear was when exiting the corner, on trottle.
I ran magenta front and rear, the pro-cuts version. Didn't cut them or anything....
0.18 front spring... the other stuff i played around with, hard to make up what's beter.. track changed a lot too...
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:30 AM   #21889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Just a question...

i had a race last weekend and i was really having problems getting grip out of the corner accelerating.
I really had a lot of understear, since i'm a nooby, what's the general advice to do then...

I've tried more jack the gripper on the front tires, but that made the car roll on corner entry. I've tried to make the center shock harder but that made the car bounce over the bumps.. it was really bumpy

i'm running a crc 3.2R
try softer side springs.
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Old 11-13-2006, 07:50 AM   #21890
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the bmi db12 was amazing this weekend. The car had a little push in stock, but in mod, there was no-one else's car that looked better on the track. If it wasn't for the driver, the car would have finished with a 2 podium in region 9.

Also tie breakers in triple a mains are a bitch!

who needs a carpet and an asphault chassis.
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:01 AM   #21891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpoage
IMO springs are often over looked for handling gremlins. These are not measurable with tools most of us have. You can measure the free length and the wire size but you can't tell if they are fatigued. A crash or even bad storage can send the spring past it usable range and onto coil bind. Springs are cheap, IMO throw then away, they are a lot cheaper than a new car?
I haven't rebuilt the front end on this car in over 2 years, springs are definitely getting changed...

I do have almost a 3/4 mm difference in lower arm height while measured on the car off my hudy board.... Hmmmmm.....
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:12 AM   #21892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Yep, the speedworld M-auto race
Understear was when exiting the corner, on trottle.
I ran magenta front and rear, the pro-cuts version. Didn't cut them or anything....
0.18 front spring... the other stuff i played around with, hard to make up what's beter.. track changed a lot too...
It might be strange getting advice from the one that placed dead-last in modified, but go for a stiffer center shock spring, and center shock oil.
If your car starts to traction roll on corner entry, coat the front tires outer sidewalls with CA.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:20 AM   #21893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Got a question....

Running my CK 3.2 (oldie, not the R) I ended up having to shim the right front arm up 1mm more than the Left arm to get equal ride height.... Even with no shims there was still 1mm difference from side to side.... I have the reactive caster front end... Springs looked fine, nothing looked bent.... Stumped.... Had a miserable day with the car...

Pretty much want to call CRC in the morning and see if the Gen-X is sold out yet....
Have you check to see if you might have one lower arm might be a stock asoc arm and one might be a crc or irs lowared arm.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:26 AM   #21894
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If your front end is off from left to right, the first thing to check is the lower arms and screws. If you have a set of lowered arms on the car, they're probably not the same height. I've had to sand them (caveman fix) to get them to be the same height. The other thing to check is the screws. A bent screw is going to hoze the whole front end.

Also, if you're running brushless, the weight of the chassis will probably be off from left to right. My chassis sets almost a half mil off when it's tweaked properly.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:43 AM   #21895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpczx6
Have you check to see if you might have one lower arm might be a stock asoc arm and one might be a crc or irs lowared arm.
They are both stock arms.... This is a recent problem, the car was fine up until this weekend...
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:53 AM   #21896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Got a question....

Running my CK 3.2 (oldie, not the R) I ended up having to shim the right front arm up 1mm more than the Left arm to get equal ride height.... Even with no shims there was still 1mm difference from side to side.... I have the reactive caster front end... Springs looked fine, nothing looked bent.... Stumped.... Had a miserable day with the car...

Pretty much want to call CRC in the morning and see if the Gen-X is sold out yet....
Check the lower pivot ball. I bet it's loose and doesn't fit snug.

Last edited by Apex; 11-13-2006 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 11-13-2006, 12:50 PM   #21897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Got a question....

Running my CK 3.2 (oldie, not the R) I ended up having to shim the right front arm up 1mm more than the Left arm to get equal ride height.... Even with no shims there was still 1mm difference from side to side.... I have the reactive caster front end... Springs looked fine, nothing looked bent.... Stumped.... Had a miserable day with the car...

Pretty much want to call CRC in the morning and see if the Gen-X is sold out yet....
I had a chassis delaminate, and it was doing the same thing.
Everything looked OK, just when you twisted the chassis, you could see it was coming apart.
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:50 PM   #21898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
the bmi db12 was amazing this weekend. The car had a little push in stock, but in mod, there was no-one else's car that looked better on the track. If it wasn't for the driver, the car would have finished with a 2 podium in region 9.

Also tie breakers in triple a mains are a bitch!

who needs a carpet and an asphault chassis.
Yang, your car was good in Mod, how did you get it dialed on that ice rink? My asphault car was horrible I don't know how the tie-breaker was decided

When I get my carpet chassis, some of us will make a road trip up to Dallas

Tim C. If you are out there, you better be ready

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Old 11-13-2006, 06:12 PM   #21899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Just a question...

i had a race last weekend and i was really having problems getting grip out of the corner accelerating.
I really had a lot of understear, since i'm a nooby, what's the general advice to do then...

I've tried more jack the gripper on the front tires, but that made the car roll on corner entry. I've tried to make the center shock harder but that made the car bounce over the bumps.. it was really bumpy

i'm running a crc 3.2R


try a 20 spring on the front. more caster will help the steering from the center off. it may also be possible your rear is too stuck and driving the front.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:40 PM   #21900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
Yang, your car was good in Mod, how did you get it dialed on that ice rink? My asphault car was horrible I don't know how the tie-breaker was decided

When I get my carpet chassis, some of us will make a road trip up to Dallas

Tim C. If you are out there, you better be ready

P2
actually it was the db12 chassis that help most. with so much weight in the rear, it planted the rear out of the corner. and going in the weight transfer was actually a little too much. but I wanted a lot on the rear tires.



come on up. we are night racing the last 2 saturdays in nov. you guys always have a place to stay.
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Last edited by theisgroup; 11-13-2006 at 07:58 PM.
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