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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-11-2006, 07:14 PM   #21871
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I think the GTX is the best/most cost effecient one. Like Mr Shookie sait its a proven piece of equipment, small and fairly easy to use. Brushless systems are great but require a large initial outlay and it seems that the hobby/industry is not on common ground as to how to group and run brushless at this time. Just my .02$

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Old 11-11-2006, 07:45 PM   #21872
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Default Where can I find small diff rings?

Does anyone know where I can find the small diff rings, not d-ring style, instead of the larger style you would usually run on a 1/10 pan car?
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Old 11-11-2006, 07:54 PM   #21873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WinnipegRacer
I am looking to upgrade the ESC in my 12th, but need you guys to sway me one way or the other. The 3 that I have in mind are the KO VFS-1, Novak GTX, and the LRP Sphere Brushed/Brushless ESC. Give me some feedback on the 3, and any others that you may have in mind.

Thanks

I would'nt count out the MRT Pro Plus. Its a very good speedo I have been running for 4 months. After buying my 2 I have and running them for 2 months I liked them so much I started selling them in the US. So far everyone has liked them. Small, durable, small cap needed (not a coke can!!), VERY easy to adjust and setup and you can actually feel the difference when you change the profiles!!

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Old 11-11-2006, 08:37 PM   #21874
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I've eyed on MRT ESC for a while already. If something wrong, can you guys repair or have to send it back to UK?
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Old 11-11-2006, 09:14 PM   #21875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher
I've eyed on MRT ESC for a while already. If something wrong, can you guys repair or have to send it back to UK?

It gets sent back to the UK. But their service is as good and fast as anyone's in the US

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Old 11-12-2006, 06:25 AM   #21876
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EA,
Are you coming up for the warmup next weekend? It won't be long now!
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Old 11-12-2006, 11:41 AM   #21877
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Just got back from Disney Land with the rental kids and my sister-n-law. Yikes, that's 3 days of tolerating the Happiest Place on Earth! Now it's time to get back to business...

I use front track width to tune the type of steering I like. It's used all the time in gas racing, but I seldomly hear about it being used in 12th. I am old skool, so I use inches. I run mostly 6.50 - 6. 60". I like to use either Lundsford or CRC threaded axles, the kind that thread into the spindle. The distance between the shoulder and the nut has some room to shim the wheel depending on manufacturer. You always need to leave enough for the nyloc of the nut to adhere to the axle. I run these axles without the capture nut on the inside of the spindle. I will unscrew the axle and place an Associated plastic washer on the threaded stud and then re-install it for a wider width. It does change the scrub set just a little, but in general, it will slow down the steering a tiny bit. Going narrower will speed the steering back up.

Likewise at the rear, going narrow will speed the steering so long as traction rolling is not an issue... and going wider will make the steering a little slower.

Look for the car freezing up some in the first 3rd of the corner and then having to accelerate out of the last 2/3rds. Otherwise, not carrying any corner speed. Try narrowing up some to see if corner speed picks up.

If the car has just a little too much steering and you have exhausted the conventional setting, try wider in the front and rear (if you can).
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Old 11-12-2006, 04:13 PM   #21878
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Got a question....

Running my CK 3.2 (oldie, not the R) I ended up having to shim the right front arm up 1mm more than the Left arm to get equal ride height.... Even with no shims there was still 1mm difference from side to side.... I have the reactive caster front end... Springs looked fine, nothing looked bent.... Stumped.... Had a miserable day with the car...

Pretty much want to call CRC in the morning and see if the Gen-X is sold out yet....
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Old 11-12-2006, 04:22 PM   #21879
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yeah, i got that same problem...having to shim up one side more than the other...i think it's because of a squished pivot ball....i'm going to order the IRS aluminum ones....to see if that rectifies the problem
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Old 11-12-2006, 04:24 PM   #21880
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i would measure the front springs just in case.i have never seen them that far off.next i would make sure that the lower arm pivot balls are the same height.mine were a little off so i machined the lower arm mounting surfaces down to be equal.this is usually where the variance is.unfortunately the molded parts arent that great and i have not seen the CRC lower arms in person yet so i cant say if there molds are any more accurate.it would be nice to see some sort of verticle adjustment on the lower pivot ball to remove play and set ball location.the pinch joint is nice on the new CRC front end but i never had any problems with side slop.the pinch setup unfortunately will not cure the verticle slop.hopefully the CRC lower arms are molded to closer tolerances around the lower ball.if so i think they will sell a ton of front ends
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Old 11-12-2006, 04:35 PM   #21881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Running my CK 3.2 (oldie, not the R) I ended up having to shim the right front arm up 1mm more than the Left arm to get equal ride height.... Even with no shims there was still 1mm difference from side to side.... I have the reactive caster front end... Springs looked fine, nothing looked bent.... Stumped.... Had a miserable day with the car...

Pretty much want to call CRC in the morning and see if the Gen-X is sold out yet....
If you had to shim that much difference a) there's something fairly fundamentally wrong, and b) you aren't going to have fun with the car until you find it.

Firstly, I'm assuming a BUNCH of things, like you're measuring ride height from a known flat surface and not a table-top, things like that.

Don't go by how things "look", generally speaking. Measure 'em. We're talking about differences you can't see with your eyes that make a world of difference, though a full mm is a ton.

Measure your spring free-lengths. Mark Payne recommends a very reasonable max difference of .01" and you cannot see that little difference. While you're at it, measure the wire diameter too. Differences here won't affect your shim stack height but make for some REALLY goofy handling and it's really easy to end up with a pair of mis-matched springs. I've taken to measuring the springs for wire diameter and length even if I pull them new from a package much less pulled them out of my parts bins.

Remove your kingpins, strip 'em down, and roll 'em on a piece of glass. I had a bent kingpin last season do exactly what you describe. Also make sure the steering block slides freely on the kingpin. If you're using threaded axles and haven't used a 1/8" reamer on the steering block you can bet it IS binding to some degree and that it will cause a difference in side-to-side height.

A bent axle can also cause what you're describing re: different ride heights. You can usually get the static alignment right with bent bits here, but the height differences, binding, etc cannot be masked.

Also, small diamter shims are a MUST. if the shims touch the sides of the ball pocket they're too big.

Look at the steering block as it relates to the upper and lower arms. It has to ride on the pivot balls and nothing else. If it's touching either arm (I find I usually have to clearance the upper arm a bit) it will, again, give different heights side-to-side.

The lower arms are often molded to different heights. Nothing beats the IRS lowered arms here because they machine the mounting surface of the arms to "lower" them--when they're done the arms are parallel and equal height, unlike the base molded pieces from Associated that IRS start with.

Just a few ideas.

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Old 11-12-2006, 04:52 PM   #21882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
If you had to shim that much difference a) there's something fairly fundamentally wrong, and b) you aren't going to have fun with the car until you find it.

Firstly, I'm assuming a BUNCH of things, like you're measuring ride height from a known flat surface and not a table-top, things like that.

Don't go by how things "look", generally speaking. Measure 'em. We're talking about differences you can't see with your eyes that make a world of difference, though a full mm is a ton.

Measure your spring free-lengths. Mark Payne recommends a very reasonable max difference of .01" and you cannot see that little difference. While you're at it, measure the wire diameter too. Differences here won't affect your shim stack height but make for some REALLY goofy handling and it's really easy to end up with a pair of mis-matched springs. I've taken to measuring the springs for wire diameter and length even if I pull them new from a package much less pulled them out of my parts bins.

Remove your kingpins, strip 'em down, and roll 'em on a piece of glass. I had a bent kingpin last season do exactly what you describe. Also make sure the steering block slides freely on the kingpin. If you're using threaded axles and haven't used a 1/8" reamer on the steering block you can bet it IS binding to some degree and that it will cause a difference in side-to-side height.

A bent axle can also cause what you're describing re: different ride heights. You can usually get the static alignment right with bent bits here, but the height differences, binding, etc cannot be masked.

Also, small diamter shims are a MUST. if the shims touch the sides of the ball pocket they're too big.

Look at the steering block as it relates to the upper and lower arms. It has to ride on the pivot balls and nothing else. If it's touching either arm (I find I usually have to clearance the upper arm a bit) it will, again, give different heights side-to-side.

The lower arms are often molded to different heights. Nothing beats the IRS lowered arms here because they machine the mounting surface of the arms to "lower" them--when they're done the arms are parallel and equal height, unlike the base molded pieces from Associated that IRS start with.

Just a few ideas.

Scottrik
I just didn't have the time to disassemble the entire front end between heats today.... But this is a known front end on my Hudy board, nothing new or different... It has to be something bent up or down, just need to figure out which....

1mm is a heck of a difference....

This car is getting tired and flexible as it is.... it's going to become a hand me down when I get a new one, just need to make it last till I have it in my hands.... My 7 year old son bounces off everything anyway....

Going to try all suggestions this week...
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Old 11-12-2006, 06:18 PM   #21883
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do u have a cross brace between the ft arms?
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Old 11-12-2006, 06:57 PM   #21884
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i read somewhere that people have been having problems with meshing gears on a 12l4 because the pod doesn't allow the motor to move closer to the spur.
i am about to order some 64pitch pinions and i don't want to get stuck with pinoins i can't use.
so my question is what pinions (64p) will not mesh up with a 100t spur on a rc12L4?
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Old 11-12-2006, 07:59 PM   #21885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Got a question....

I have the reactive caster front end... Springs looked fine, nothing looked bent.... Stumped.... Had a miserable day with the car...

Pretty much want to call CRC in the morning and see if the Gen-X is sold out yet....
IMO springs are often over looked for handling gremlins. These are not measurable with tools most of us have. You can measure the free length and the wire size but you can't tell if they are fatigued. A crash or even bad storage can send the spring past it usable range and onto coil bind. Springs are cheap, IMO throw then away, they are a lot cheaper than a new car?

Last edited by rpoage; 11-13-2006 at 05:29 AM.
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