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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2006, 06:16 PM   #21841
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O'D,
I got the Prototype chassis and spare overnight! I'll be running the Proto at the ROAR Reg 9 race this weekend and let you know how it goes
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:17 PM   #21842
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Need a little info here guys on the 1/12 car my front is wider than the rear is this the way it should be or the other way around and what if it was the other way what would be the reaction thank you.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:20 PM   #21843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Jordan jr
Need a little info here guys on the 1/12 car my front is wider than the rear is this the way it should be or the other way around and what if it was the other way what would be the reaction thank you.
Are you using spacers on the front axles between the wheel bearing and the steering knuckle? Are you using rear axle spacers between the hubs and the rear bearings? The rear should always be the same width or wider then the front, the other way around will cause some interesting handling...
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:37 PM   #21844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Are you using spacers on the front axles between the wheel bearing and the steering knuckle? Are you using rear axle spacers between the hubs and the rear bearings? The rear should always be the same width or wider then the front, the other way around will cause some interesting handling...
Yes i am using spacers in the front if i don't the wheel will touch the steering block and yes with the rear axle, what i was thinking is to use more spacers in the rear for the rear to be the same or wider than the front thank you.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:43 PM   #21845
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you want to space the rear out much more than you have it.the width of the car really will depend on the tires you are running.if you are running parma tires,they are a narrow offset and make the rear extremely narrow and you will need to use more shims.the jaco,crc,and TRC tires all have a wider offset which will require less shimming.i run asphalt and i usually run my rear at 168mm and the front at 165mm.for carpet you may want to be closer to the 172mm limit in the rear and maybe 2-3mm more narrow in the front.try it out and see what works better for you.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:57 PM   #21846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
you want to space the rear out much more than you have it.the width of the car really will depend on the tires you are running.if you are running parma tires,they are a narrow offset and make the rear extremely narrow and you will need to use more shims.the jaco,crc,and TRC tires all have a wider offset which will require less shimming.i run asphalt and i usually run my rear at 168mm and the front at 165mm.for carpet you may want to be closer to the 172mm limit in the rear and maybe 2-3mm more narrow in the front.try it out and see what works better for you.
Thank you Protc3 that is very helpful info i will try it.
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:10 PM   #21847
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no problem buddy
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Old 11-09-2006, 01:12 AM   #21848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
O'D,
I got the Prototype chassis and spare overnight! I'll be running the Proto at the ROAR Reg 9 race this weekend and let you know how it goes
P2
I see you build fast as well as drive fast
Good Luck!
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:03 AM   #21849
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where can i find 12th scale vids from vegas or snowbirds??
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Old 11-09-2006, 01:57 PM   #21850
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LOOKING FOR SOME HELP.

Two weeks ago i went to my local electric track.
It was my first time out. There was only 24 racers there.
I finished 2nd in the C-Main.
Last week i was last on the starting grid, but finshed 4th
in the B-Main. I feel my driving is there but i dont have
enough power. i just brought a new Monster CO 27.
What can i do to get more power from this motor.
Also im a rookie at electric. But a friend of mines helps
me out. Im looking for this weekend to be even better
because its a trophy Race.
Thanks

CRC T-Force.
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Motor. .21 FLASH/353 Race
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Tyres. Ky Red Box
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:46 PM   #21851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUINT1
LOOKING FOR SOME HELP.

Two weeks ago i went to my local electric track.
It was my first time out. There was only 24 racers there.
I finished 2nd in the C-Main.
Last week i was last on the starting grid, but finshed 4th
in the B-Main. I feel my driving is there but i dont have
enough power. i just brought a new Monster CO 27.
What can i do to get more power from this motor.
Also im a rookie at electric. But a friend of mines helps
me out. Im looking for this weekend to be even better
because its a trophy Race.
Thanks

CRC T-Force.
Racing (especially 1/12th scale) is a game of patience. You may feel your driving is right there and if you are running competitive equipment you're on the right track (no pun intended). Look at your lap times from the print outs and if you notice they are all within a couple tenths of the last one then you may be right and you need more power or better motors but if they fluxuate a lot then you should look at driving style and trying to maintain a more linear throttle finger going in and out of corners.
Smoothing the lines on the track can make a few tenths per lap and so can a ton of little things elsewhere.
Since you are new to electrics you are probably new to carpet as well. After every run check the axles and bearings for carpet fibres, clean the diff, check all bearings are spinning free of any fibres or grit, check tire wear and the chassis for scuff marks from track tape or tire compound (if you see a lot of rubbing on the sides of the chassis you may be running a bit low or need a stiffer t plate. ) in any case these little things make a world of difference on the track.
Work on the maintenance of the car off the track and concentrate on the smoothest lines to maintain the most speed you can on the track. Don't try to win it in the first turn, get on your own pace and don't worry about the cars behind you cuz it will throw you off, watch the cars ahead of you to try to gain positions (catching is usually easier than outrunning) but once you get close don't push too hard... wait for the opening to make the pass clean (nobody wants to loose because they were taken out and nobody wants to win cuz they took someone out) there are far greater personal rewards to making a clean pass and sticking it.
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:35 PM   #21852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUINT1
LOOKING FOR SOME HELP.

Two weeks ago i went to my local electric track.
It was my first time out. There was only 24 racers there.
I finished 2nd in the C-Main.
Last week i was last on the starting grid, but finshed 4th
in the B-Main. I feel my driving is there but i dont have
enough power. i just brought a new Monster CO 27.
What can i do to get more power from this motor.
Also im a rookie at electric. But a friend of mines helps
me out. Im looking for this weekend to be even better
because its a trophy Race.
Thanks

CRC T-Force.
Damn G, not getting any help from teamates.
I watched your entire race and can give you my opinion if you like.
Hit me on the cell, let's talk.
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Old 11-10-2006, 04:10 PM   #21853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
Damn G, not getting any help from teamates.
I watched your entire race and can give you my opinion if you like.
Hit me on the cell, let's talk.
Jamie Thanks.
Im always open for more help from u and anyone else.
But yes... Im getting helpfrom all of my team mates.
I just feel i could use more. But after reading INFERNO'S
post. He's right about everything.
So i will be going over all of my equipment along with
-Driving cleaner lines
-Car maintenance
-Bearings
-Tire wear
-Chassis setup and scuff
-Also Myself (maybe its just me)
Thanks INFERNO for a diff insight.

Jamie Thanks again. And your opinion is always good with me.

Thanks GUYS
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Old 11-10-2006, 10:50 PM   #21854
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What is a good setup on a CRC T-force for small carpet track?

Will Corally SP12X (production) accept Associated front end? I see 4 extra holes on the chassis.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:00 AM   #21855
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Will Corally SP12X (production) accept Associated front end? I see 4 extra holes on the chassis.[/B][/QUOTE]


yes and no. the sp12x us version is equiped witht he ass. front and. the sp12x doesn't. there are two version. the us spec will also us to use jaco and crc etc... tires. I hope this helps.
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