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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2006, 08:52 PM   #21781
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Thanks. I guess I'll start where you are and where I thought I'd be at and go from there; but their gearing is real low and that's a lot of testing to figure out initially.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:54 PM   #21782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
we run every weekend for now ...www.allensrccars.com
I went to there site and didn't find any mention of any forum or links to one.

I have raced there in the past I just wanted to talk to some of the locals about the 1/12 scale class if there still is one.
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:26 PM   #21783
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For the 12th scale gurus out there, what is a good setup for the Epic X-stock motor ( brushes, springs, and general ideal rollout for asphalt)? The track has a 75 ft straight-away. I am having problems finding the X-stocks sweet spot that makes it fast and strong.
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:34 PM   #21784
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<U may want to have a look at the darkside MX-12>

Customworksking, what car is the darkside MX-12 and who is the car made by?

Chris
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:31 PM   #21785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
In the CRC description on their site I see that the aluminum servo mount is included in the kit. Kudos.

From pics on their site it looks like:

New ball link-style tie rod ends...are these part of the kit?

Car in pics has low roll-center pieces, are these now included in the kit? (still optional in the 3.2R)

Front ride height--I see what look like red standoffs under the lower arm. Are we still using shims (CRC, Fibre-Lyte, etc) to fine-tune front ride height or?

What keeps the tweak/side-spring "bridge" (doesn't span much anymore...) from twisting/pivoting on the standoff? it looks like it's only really attached at the standoff (and, arguably, up through the body).

Looks like it uses the same rear axle assembly we've come to know and love?

Same side-springs? Looks like it.

Thanks,

Scottrik
New ball link-style tie rod ends...are these part of the kit?

*** yes... ball links and ball cups included. Take your pic, there will be 2 extra pieces in the kit for the first release.

Car in pics has low roll-center pieces, are these now included in the kit? (still optional in the 3.2R)

**** yes, included

Front ride height--I see what look like red standoffs under the lower arm. Are we still using shims (CRC, Fibre-Lyte, etc) to fine-tune front ride height or?

**** .187" Red spacers and .157 graphite spacers are for course ride adjusments, CRC shim adjusters for fine ride height adjustments.

What keeps the tweak/side-spring "bridge" (doesn't span much anymore...) from twisting/pivoting on the standoff? it looks like it's only really attached at the standoff (and, arguably, up through the body).

**** 2 standoffs, one very close to the tweak spring, very rigid and precise.

Looks like it uses the same rear axle assembly we've come to know and love?

*** Yes... hubs and axle made by CRC.

Same side-springs? Looks like it.

**** Yes...


*** Thanks! Hope this helps.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:40 PM   #21786
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Yes, very much so!

ygpm.

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Old 11-06-2006, 11:27 PM   #21787
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I've read of peeps using dubro harware and aftermarket turnbuckles to augment their 1/12's front end. Does anyone ahve any detailed pics of this installed on a car? I thought I bought the necesasry equipment but couldn't get it free. It jsut bound up like crazy. Thanks guys.
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Old 11-06-2006, 11:45 PM   #21788
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For one car:

1X Lunsford #1064 1-3/8" Punisher Ti turnbuckles pair

4X Dubro #369 2-56 Swivel Ball Link (For 4-40 Rods)

The "standard" Lunsford 1-3/4" turnbuckles CAN be used, but they must be shortened 3/16" on either end and the links REALLY have to be shortened. The 1-3/8" pieces are the correct length as-is AND they're threaded further in toward the "nut" portion so the links don't have to be shortened quite as much.

These would probably work just fine installing them as-is, but taking a page from James35(?) I used 1/8" od K&S brass tubing slit lengthwise with a Dremel and narrow cut-off disk to make inserts for the steering blocks to better fit the 2-56 hardware. Cut pre-slit tubing to length (same thickness or a touch less than the arm from the steering block). I used a X-acto razor saw and a X-acto mitre box, then filed to exact length. You will need two per car (one for each steering block).

Use the 2-56 screw that comes with the Dubro part(s) and slide the short piece of slit tubing and use your needle-nose pliers to squeeze the tubing to fit the smaller 2-56 screw. The gap/slit will close to almost nothing. Slightly drill out (about .118" iir) the steering block then use a larger bit with your fingers to very slightly chamfer the ends of the holes you've just enlarged. This makes the inserts easier to get started. They're a bit of a bear to get in there because you want a tight fit.

Assemble and viola!!

Oh, pay no attention to the white marks on everything. They just help me make sure I get everything assembled the way I want them (white-right). The right-hand thread portion of every turnbuckle (camber adjusters and tie-rods) is on the right hand side. This way ALL turnbuckles are adjusted the same direction...toward the front to make links longer, to the rear to make links shorter. Easier for little brains like mine to keep up that way...

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 11-07-2006, 12:13 AM   #21789
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That car looks too shiny... get out there and wear it in!

The black antenna looks sexy. Sadly, I have found them not too durable on asphalt tracks. I crushed mine at SIR over the weekend. So did another driver. SIR is an indoor asphalt track like the Tamiya track is in Cali. with berms.

They have been great on the carpet tracks.
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Old 11-07-2006, 02:40 AM   #21790
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Thanks for the suggestion a few days ago Slapmaster! You were on the money!

Anyone running brushless 1/12th? Brushless has been voted in for 2007 in my area and was wondering what's best?
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Old 11-07-2006, 05:34 AM   #21791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
I'm wondering what car is the best for asphalt racing, I don't think my 12i is quite up to the task these days lol. Is the AE 12l4 as good as the CRC? And has anyone seen the new CRC X. Thanks in advance for any input. Funny when I first started racing in the 80's 1/12 was the only scale, strange how things come back around.

Chris
I am attemting to support 1/12th scale in the same manor as I do our other products. I have added CRC, Associated, IRS, Slapmaster, PRS and others but if you don't see something I should have drop me a line. I will say that a lot of this stuff is hard to get from suppliers and I have back orders approching 2 months on some items. Site is real time inventory.
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Old 11-07-2006, 05:51 AM   #21792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
<U may want to have a look at the darkside MX-12>

Customworksking, what car is the darkside MX-12 and who is the car made by?

Chris
The Mx2 is the 1/12 scale road course chassis made by Darkside Motorsports. Check out the website at www.darksidems.com for more information.

-E
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Old 11-07-2006, 06:58 AM   #21793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
That car looks too shiny... get out there and wear it in!

The black antenna looks sexy. Sadly, I have found them not too durable on asphalt tracks. I crushed mine at SIR over the weekend. So did another driver. SIR is an indoor asphalt track like the Tamiya track is in Cali. with berms.

They have been great on the carpet tracks.
Yeah, been stuck building cars instead of racing them the past two race days (alternate Sundays here). And of course now they've announced the Gen X, so I'll probably sell at least one of the cars (FULLY optioned-out 3.2R) and buy one of the new ones--provided I can get confirmation I'd be in the initial batch purchase pool. Gettin' kind of anxious to run...maybe get in a LITTLE practice before we start traveling to out of town events in mid-December...

The antenna should work fine here--no ass-fault in sight. 'least not IN-doors.

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Old 11-07-2006, 10:08 AM   #21794
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Hey guys,

I'm new to 1/12. Which manufactures and kit's should I consider? What are a few of the popular kits right now?
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Old 11-07-2006, 10:21 AM   #21795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
For one car:

1X Lunsford #1064 1-3/8" Punisher Ti turnbuckles pair

4X Dubro #369 2-56 Swivel Ball Link (For 4-40 Rods)

Scottrik

Do you find with building the front end with no slop whatsoever that your running any negative expo and is car very sensitive to steering inputs around center?
I think it would be very cool to redo the front end on my Gen X like this.
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