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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2006, 05:19 PM   #21766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
OK--I see now. The "bridge" doesn't span across now, it runs 'round the corner and the battery anchor now becomes the second standoff on each side.

Still use shims under the front or...?

Low roll-center kit "standard" now or...?

Thanks again Mark!! When can we expect an updated builder-blog?

Scottrik
I second the CRC Gen X blog idea....
Mark you spoiled us mear mortals....
Is the Gen X that much better or can the 3.2R's still hold ther own...
Thinking of making the 3.2R my Asphalt car since I have so many spares and what not...LOL

Oh I hope that CRC had at least a couple hundred from the respounce of how many people pre-ordered/pre purchased their Gen Xs....
Just glad I did mine right when it hit the internet...
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:32 PM   #21767
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does anyone know what happened to speedmerchants V-FORCE front end. i think they were testing it at the "03 nats. thought it did okay. lopez won stock but i'm not sure if he had that front end on.



i have to agree with everyone that the crc front end is the biggest thing to hit the 1/12 scale market in a long time.
Franks a crafty individual.
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Old 11-06-2006, 05:45 PM   #21768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
<<T plate cars seem to work better for me on asphalt>>

Which cars/platforms have the t-plate?

Chris

AE 12L4,crc t force,corally SP12X,yokomo has one and im sure a few others.all of the 1/12ths out are all based off the AE car in one way or another.there are many different chassis conversions for most all of the 1/12th out there being that they are all so similar.there are some variations of front ends that all stem from the AE style front end.the new CRC front end seems to be nice and probably of higher quality than the AE front end but in the end,its the same end result that looks slightly different.in a nutshell,any of the tplate cars mentioned will work well being that they are all similar.there are conversion kits out that change the handling of the car from stock if you prefer to do so.
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Old 11-06-2006, 06:43 PM   #21769
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Getting back into 1/12th stock. Any motor,battery and gear ratio suggestions?
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:03 PM   #21770
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<<AE 12L4,crc t force,corally SP12X,yokomo has one and im sure a few others.all of the 1/12ths out are all based off the AE car in one way or another.there are many different chassis conversions for most all of the 1/12th out there being that they are all so similar.there are some variations of front ends that all stem from the AE style front end.the new CRC front end seems to be nice and probably of higher quality than the AE front end but in the end,its the same end result that looks slightly different.in a nutshell,any of the tplate cars mentioned will work well being that they are all similar.there are conversion kits out that change the handling of the car from stock if you prefer to do so.>>

Ok thanks Jason.
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:49 PM   #21771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Carl,
I have had some luck using 767 with .010 trimmed from the trailing edge with red/purple and about a 1.52 - 1.65 r/o based on track lay out. I trimmed the trailing edge for heat reasons and it seemed to keep the motor stronger in the 4th quarter.

Trav Schreven peeled my stickers over the weekend with an F brush, full, red/black with a 1.48 roll out to my 1.52. Trav has more Nat's titles then I do... so take what I offer lightly.
Okay, I took down these notes along with Mark's and starting cutting tires and prepping my car and noticed something unusual. In my TC, we always gear much higher our 19t motors than our stock, but the advice posted shows a pretty low gearing for 19t in 1/12th compared to stock. Is this right, or am I missing something? I always thought 19t motors were supposed to be geared to the moon and with the rollout suggested, it is pretty low. Does it have something to do with the Komodo D maybe? Also, what about a checkpoint money 19t?
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:49 PM   #21772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
<<AE 12L4,crc t force,corally SP12X,yokomo has one and im sure a few others.all of the 1/12ths out are all based off the AE car in one way or another.there are many different chassis conversions for most all of the 1/12th out there being that they are all so similar.there are some variations of front ends that all stem from the AE style front end.the new CRC front end seems to be nice and probably of higher quality than the AE front end but in the end,its the same end result that looks slightly different.in a nutshell,any of the tplate cars mentioned will work well being that they are all similar.there are conversion kits out that change the handling of the car from stock if you prefer to do so.>>

Ok thanks Jason.
U may want to have a look at the darkside MX-12
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:13 PM   #21773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Your 3.2R already has lowered rear bulkheads.

CRC are a great source for mods/optional parts. Stormer and K-T are two shops that carry quite a bit of CRC parts but are pretty hit-or-miss as to what they've got at any given time.

Scottrik
Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:16 PM   #21774
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Originally Posted by edseb
Okay, I took down these notes along with Mark's and starting cutting tires and prepping my car and noticed something unusual. In my TC, we always gear much higher our 19t motors than our stock, but the advice posted shows a pretty low gearing for 19t in 1/12th compared to stock. Is this right, or am I missing something? I always thought 19t motors were supposed to be geared to the moon and with the rollout suggested, it is pretty low. Does it have something to do with the Komodo D maybe? Also, what about a checkpoint money 19t?
on asphalt i run the KD and i run my rear tires at 1.825 and roll it out at 47mm.this is with full face F's and green springs + and -.the car is fast as hell and seemed to be the sweet spot for the KD.the KD doesnt take as much gear as the checkpoint,reedy quad,c2.but they still manage to be extremely fast when geared correctly.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:22 PM   #21775
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Anybody here run at Allen's RC cars here in Central IL? I used to know a forum where all the locals hung out but I can't seem to remember it.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:25 PM   #21776
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you can try the racing forum under general forums.i know there is a bunch of different track discussion from all over in there.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:28 PM   #21777
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Ya I tried that and the one I found here was outdated, last post was this time last year.

Thanks though...........
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:30 PM   #21778
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Originally Posted by protc3
on asphalt i run the KD and i run my rear tires at 1.825 and roll it out at 47mm.this is with full face F's and green springs + and -.the car is fast as hell and seemed to be the sweet spot for the KD.the KD doesnt take as much gear as the checkpoint,reedy quad,c2.but they still manage to be extremely fast when geared correctly.
Okay, now I'm still confused. Your suggestions fall in line to what I'm used to for those kind of motors and what I would expect for the KD, but look at the advice Brian Bodine gave me and what Travis Schreven and Mark ran... it's much lower? Is everyone that much off? Help!
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:34 PM   #21779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Anybody here run at Allen's RC cars here in Central IL? I used to know a forum where all the locals hung out but I can't seem to remember it.
we run every weekend for now ...www.allensrccars.com
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:44 PM   #21780
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Originally Posted by edseb
Okay, now I'm still confused. Your suggestions fall in line to what I'm used to for those kind of motors and what I would expect for the KD, but look at the advice Brian Bodine gave me and what Travis Schreven and Mark ran... it's much lower? Is everyone that much off? Help!

yeah,the gearing does look different.the gearing they are running may be for a somewhat tight carpet track.i think i dropped about 2 teeth last time i ran carpet.i dont remember exactly what i ran then but for asphalt i found 47mm to work at both tracks i run at and had tons of top end and punch.the power never faded throughout 8 minutes.i was running 13.1's,2's,and 3's up front and finished with a 13.4.
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