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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-05-2006, 07:51 AM   #21721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
...and may now start to roll, Brian, as the TC guys have got themselves into a looney-loop over the number of cells to run - 4 in Japan, 5 now in Europe, and 6 in the US (so far!). It's looking more and more as though people will now do 'something else' in the summer, and 12th in the Winter - or all year round in Florida!

I hope you, OD and Jason won't forget Europe as a market - we'd all love to have your cars available, especially in the UK. The UK 12th market has quite a high average age, but it also means there is a bit of money available, and 12th isn't exactly expensive. A 12L is about 140, and a Corally 12X is 300 retail - so plenty of scope! OK, do I have to beg now?!!

12th rocks - or is there an echo in this thread?!!
once i get things rolling i will be looking for a UK distributer.i want everyone to be able to enjoy 1/12th at the highest level reguardless of what side of the pond they are on.shipping isnt very expensive when done in some sort of bulk so price should remain good.one thing i can say is that the new rear suspension i am working on is somewhat link based.i was at the shop yesterday and this new design just hit me.sometimes this just happens and i have to roll with it.if this works the way i want,it will raise alot of eyebrows.i wish that i could say more but i have to be tight lipped about it until i am finished.i normally do not get very excited about something like this but i really think it is going to be a breakthrough in 1/12th.
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:15 AM   #21722
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Jason, by saying things like that do you really think you take away the curiosity and the excitement about the new 'thing'?!... lol
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:23 AM   #21723
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:46 AM   #21724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish armada
does anyone know if someone makes a aluminum leftside motor bulkhead for the RC12L3O?
kinda like the right side?
www.darksidems.com
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:13 AM   #21725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
...and may now start to roll, Brian, as the TC guys have got themselves into a looney-loop over the number of cells to run - 4 in Japan, 5 now in Europe, and 6 in the US (so far!). It's looking more and more as though people will now do 'something else' in the summer, and 12th in the Winter - or all year round in Florida!

I hope you, OD and Jason won't forget Europe as a market - we'd all love to have your cars available, especially in the UK. The UK 12th market has quite a high average age, but it also means there is a bit of money available, and 12th isn't exactly expensive. A 12L is about 140, and a Corally 12X is 300 retail - so plenty of scope! OK, do I have to beg now?!!

12th rocks - or is there an echo in this thread?!!
Yeah, looks like the TC racers are having to confront the technology curve that 1/12th guys did years ago. Nobody ever wants to admit that the cars are too fast and they need to slow down. It's undeniable that going to four cells in 1/12th resulted in a better balanced and raceable car than before the switch. I'm not advocating any particular change for touring cars, other than to say that sometimes change is good.

As for seeing OD12s in Europe, that is quite doable on an individual basis. I'm still a teeny tiny company compared to almost any other car maker on this thread, but I do know how to ship.

And just so Jason and Brian don't have all the fun, we are working on a few ideas too Just stuff to make your 1/12th scale experience more enjoyable.

1/12th does indeed rock! (there's that echo again!)
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:27 AM   #21726
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cool deal od.when am i gonna get some pics punk!!

i agree on slowing tc down a bit.i have been testing with 4 cell TC and they are a little slower but handle better than 6 cell.most guys that dont want 4 cell TC are stock racers.19 turn 4 cell is faster than stock 6 cell and mod 4 cell is faster than 19 turn 6 cell.stock will just be eliminated.speed is cool but handling is also.i choose a little less speed and better handling
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:29 AM   #21727
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http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1...0/IMG_2638.jpg

I have seen several racers use this center shock mount idea (mostly on the bottom attachment point). I gathered the parts and tried it but I ended up with a "V" in my center shock as the bottom captured ball wouldn't allow the shock body to pivot up far enough to match the angle of the shaft. Does everyone just shim the bottom of the shock up a BUNCH or am I missing something else? The "V" in my shock was enough that I could feel the shock grind when I compressed it. Fo r the time being I have just removed the captured ball and am using the standard AE ball cups and studs despite thier play.
Along with this, I am wondering how much change or what change to expect shimming the shock up will have. I am running a 12L4 with the CRC shock shown in the picture above.
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:45 AM   #21728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1...0/IMG_2638.jpg

I have seen several racers use this center shock mount idea (mostly on the bottom attachment point). I gathered the parts and tried it but I ended up with a "V" in my center shock as the bottom captured ball wouldn't allow the shock body to pivot up far enough to match the angle of the shaft. Does everyone just shim the bottom of the shock up a BUNCH or am I missing something else? The "V" in my shock was enough that I could feel the shock grind when I compressed it. Fo r the time being I have just removed the captured ball and am using the standard AE ball cups and studs despite thier play.
Along with this, I am wondering how much change or what change to expect shimming the shock up will have. I am running a 12L4 with the CRC shock shown in the picture above.
That link is flawed; do you have a better pic of what you're describing?
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Old 11-05-2006, 12:25 PM   #21729
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oops. I guess mark paynes website doesn't like me. Any of the pictures on his site that show his center shock show what I am talking about.

www.12thrc.com
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Old 11-05-2006, 12:46 PM   #21730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
cool deal od.when am i gonna get some pics punk!!

i agree on slowing tc down a bit.i have been testing with 4 cell TC and they are a little slower but handle better than 6 cell.most guys that dont want 4 cell TC are stock racers.19 turn 4 cell is faster than stock 6 cell and mod 4 cell is faster than 19 turn 6 cell.stock will just be eliminated.speed is cool but handling is also.i choose a little less speed and better handling
I thought I would get flamed for even being open to the idea of four cell TC You hit the nail on the head, it's about the balance of speed and handling, a little less speed and better handling can make for better racing because the car is more drivable.

I've been busy keeping team cars on the track and other every day work but my OD/BMI car is on the bench and I will post pictures when its done. I'm setting it up for mod carpet, hoo boy!!
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Old 11-05-2006, 02:39 PM   #21731
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thats cool OD.im gonna be running carpet mod so i can get a a good setup for the car for the snowbirds.Paul Wynn and Billy Easton will be running my 1/12th car at the birds and i gotta find a good setup for them.im up in the air right now on which class im gonna run.i gotta make up my mind soon
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:16 PM   #21732
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Ok guys, Im a TC racer that just backordered a CRC Generation X 1/12th scale. Any help with setup and tuning tips would be helpful, tires, springs, diff lube ect. I will be running mod carpet.

Thanks,
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:19 PM   #21733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
cool deal od.when am i gonna get some pics punk!!

i agree on slowing tc down a bit.i have been testing with 4 cell TC and they are a little slower but handle better than 6 cell.most guys that dont want 4 cell TC are stock racers.19 turn 4 cell is faster than stock 6 cell and mod 4 cell is faster than 19 turn 6 cell.stock will just be eliminated.speed is cool but handling is also.i choose a little less speed and better handling
Jason--- just to back up what you were saying a bit (though I know this is the 12th thread) I watched 4 cell mod run (TC) today at Superior and the class looked great... the cars were getting through the corners super fast, not spinning the tires, and ripping the straight up. Cant tell you how much I wish I had tried it instead of sticking to the hack-fest in stock .

You tried the new parma 12th scale shell yet? Just wondering since I know you like the regular speed8 alot.
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:43 PM   #21734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikus
What body is recomended for asphalt, and were is the best place to order from?

Thanks

Mike
I too was curious....... anybody????
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:37 AM   #21735
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Any one here got a good set up for a crc 3.2 on carpet???
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