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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-03-2006, 04:55 PM   #21691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Ouch, judging by the cost of one arm on Stormer's site that's some money in spares.
Or you could do what Spashett did, slap on a Associated front end. The SP12X has the mounting holes for it.
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:39 PM   #21692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_bam226
Well, time to bug Jeff Brown .
He runs for Speedmerchant if I remember correctly.Does he still work for Corally?
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:48 PM   #21693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Yes I am and have had no real problems with it.... I can't complain about my treatment with Nomadio when I have an issue... I dropped 2 transcievers in the mail on tuesday because they weren't working properly and according to the UPS site the new ones are on the truck for delivery today.... (both of them had a stay in my Xray...)

Scott and I were talking and there seems to be a static problem when running foam on carpet and that may be some peoples problem... I was thinking that maybe spraying the underside with Staic Guard.... Who knows, there've been sillier solutions...
That may be the issue. I pulled the receiver and went back to a Jr XS3 and the problem went away. Not sure I want to try the Static Guard. Let me know if it works!

They have been good on service for me as well. I had a few things happen but service was great until the last receiver.
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:56 PM   #21694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racenut123
He runs for Speedmerchant if I remember correctly.Does he still work for Corally?
He still runs for Speedmerchant, but imports for Corally.
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:41 PM   #21695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_bam226
Or you could do what Spashett did, slap on a Associated front end. The SP12X has the mounting holes for it.

I have been running both the Old Skool Speedmerchant front end, and the newer one, but the Corally front end was actually the fastest and the smoothest... I did not have faith in it in the beginning, so I was racing other front ends, but when forced to try, I realized I should have done so from the beginning...
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:15 AM   #21696
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Anyone know where to ket Kimbrough #180 the offset axle holder for 12l4?
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:42 AM   #21697
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Push turning right only

Hi All -

I'm getting a lot of push on right handers only. Turning left is no problem. I have checked the tweak on a tweak board, and it is spot on. I have also verified that the servo travel gives the same steering angle both left and right. The tires have been swapped left/right in both the front and rear, and are within .001 of the same diameter. This is on a 12L4 with .020 front springs, stock shock spring/oil, and the .075 T-bar. Running Parma purple fronts, and I tried both pink and gray Parma rears. Paragon on inner half of each front, all of each rear. 3.5mm ride hight front and rear, batteries back, CO27 motor, 1.83 rollout on high bite CRC fasttrack carpet. Any ideas on how to cure this? Maybe the diff is too tight?

CJ
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:46 AM   #21698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
Hi All -

I'm getting a lot of push on right handers only. Turning left is no problem. I have checked the tweak on a tweak board, and it is spot on. I have also verified that the servo travel gives the same steering angle both left and right. The tires have been swapped left/right in both the front and rear, and are within .001 of the same diameter. This is on a 12L4 with .020 front springs, stock shock spring/oil, and the .075 T-bar. Running Parma purple fronts, and I tried both pink and gray Parma rears. Paragon on inner half of each front, all of each rear. 3.5mm ride hight front and rear, batteries back, CO27 motor, 1.83 rollout on high bite CRC fasttrack carpet. Any ideas on how to cure this? Maybe the diff is too tight?

CJ
check that both of your lower front arms are the same height at the pivot ball.i have had some of the front ends be .5mm different left to right which will screw things up.all you will need to do is sand them into allignment.also make sure that you sand the mounting surfaces of the arms because they are not in line with eachother front and rear.this will twist the chassis when you screw the arms onto the chassis.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:11 AM   #21699
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Default Thanks!

Thanks, Jason!

I will also be sure to check this when I finish building my DB12 later today.

CJ
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:50 PM   #21700
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CRC Uni-Tune conversion kit

Another hopefully quick question. What parts are included in the CRC Uni-Tune conversion kit? I assume that it includes parts to convert a 12L4 from dampener disks to dampener tubes? Is this correct? The part number is 1328, but they don't have any description or pictures on the CRC site. Thanks!

CJ
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:03 PM   #21701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
Hi All -

I'm getting a lot of push on right handers only. Turning left is no problem. I have checked the tweak on a tweak board, and it is spot on. I have also verified that the servo travel gives the same steering angle both left and right. The tires have been swapped left/right in both the front and rear, and are within .001 of the same diameter. This is on a 12L4 with .020 front springs, stock shock spring/oil, and the .075 T-bar. Running Parma purple fronts, and I tried both pink and gray Parma rears. Paragon on inner half of each front, all of each rear. 3.5mm ride hight front and rear, batteries back, CO27 motor, 1.83 rollout on high bite CRC fasttrack carpet. Any ideas on how to cure this? Maybe the diff is too tight?

CJ
This may be a dumb question but have you checked to make sure your circles are the same size left to right? IE putting the car up to the wall and making a full lock half circle to the right and then putting your foot down at the stoping point and turning the car around to see if the left is the same size? I make this simple mistake all the time.

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Old 11-04-2006, 01:14 PM   #21702
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Where does one set the power 1-5 on a Quantum 2 for stock carpet racing?

Thank you,
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:21 PM   #21703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
Another hopefully quick question. What parts are included in the CRC Uni-Tune conversion kit? I assume that it includes parts to convert a 12L4 from dampener disks to dampener tubes? Is this correct? The part number is 1328, but they don't have any description or pictures on the CRC site. Thanks!

CJ
The one I have I bought a few years ago, but assuming the parts are the same now the kit has all that you need to convert an L4 to damper tubes. That's tubes, top plate, cross brace and the hardware. In addition, it has the parts to add side springs, if you wish, like a Carpet Knife (then you don't use the tweak screws in the t bar)
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:22 PM   #21704
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Add to that... make sure your fornt springs are not collapsed... just change them out, they are cheap... Also maks sure your kingpin is shimmed the same on both sides... and the axel is centered in the rear....



Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
Hi All -

I'm getting a lot of push on right handers only. Turning left is no problem. I have checked the tweak on a tweak board, and it is spot on. I have also verified that the servo travel gives the same steering angle both left and right. The tires have been swapped left/right in both the front and rear, and are within .001 of the same diameter. This is on a 12L4 with .020 front springs, stock shock spring/oil, and the .075 T-bar. Running Parma purple fronts, and I tried both pink and gray Parma rears. Paragon on inner half of each front, all of each rear. 3.5mm ride hight front and rear, batteries back, CO27 motor, 1.83 rollout on high bite CRC fasttrack carpet. Any ideas on how to cure this? Maybe the diff is too tight?

CJ
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Old 11-04-2006, 03:06 PM   #21705
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hey guys,i am just about finished with the developement of our new style rear suspension.i think this is going to bring 1/12th a step forward.i am very excited about this.unfortunately i will not be posting pictures until its release but rest assured,you wont be disappointed.
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Last edited by protc3; 11-04-2006 at 05:58 PM.
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