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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-02-2006, 03:30 PM   #21661
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Bruce is a crafty fella too.

I have not seen the ant. of a Nomadio. The internal dia. is roughly .070"
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:32 PM   #21662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Bruce is a crafty fella too.

I have not seen the ant. of a Nomadio. The internal dia. is roughly .070"
Going to have to measure it... It is a bit on the thick side....
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:44 PM   #21663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnick
Do you know if a generation X kit with t-bar qill also be available?

Nick

from what i have been told, no
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:48 PM   #21664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
I guess I should have phrased it differently.

I was specifically interested in the front suspension--I'm curious if it has the same screw spacing as the Associated Reactive Caster assembly they've been using AND if it is compatible will it be offered as a package rather than a part-by-part replacement.

Secondly, it LOOKS (certainly not sure about this) that the chief difference with the rear pod is the top plate. Curious as to whether this is true.

Pretty sure the "new" battery retention system would bolt right in.

The other items DO seem beyond reasonable updating...go buy the kit.

Scottrik
Hi Scott,

Thanks for the inquiry...

The new CRC front end will retro-fit any chassis that uses the Associated front end bolt pattern. However, the parts between the new CRC and Associated will not cross link. Meaning a lower CRC arm won't mount to an Assoc upper arm mount and vice-versa.

Regarding the conversion... the CRC Carpet Knife Version 3.0 came out in 1997. Today, 10 years later, the 3.2R components still fit the 3.0 and a 3.0 from 1997 can be converted to a 3.2R. With this release, we cleaned the slate and started a new chassis from the ground up. Many of the parts are different making a conversion kit impractical.

The rear pod is all new, the dual tweak plates are new, narrow chassis, new front end... just too many changes to make a conversion kit practical. Sorry.

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Old 11-02-2006, 08:51 PM   #21665
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GenX car looks good, but I will be sticking with what I have for now. I will definately have to try one in the future. I'll wait for one of the locals to get one and buy it off them when the quit running 1/12.
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:02 PM   #21666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychosilence
Running 1/12th mod this weekend on asphalt. Around 20m straight, infield not tight. Plan on running a 8x3 or 9x2.

Can anyone please suggest a rollout and timing for the motor using 4200 cells with around 650sec runtime at 20A.

Thanks!
Any suggestions guys?
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:38 PM   #21667
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Asphalt is different enough from the regular carpet that I run on. But if I had to take a guess: 24/100 with a 1.85 (47mm) tire. Timing always seems to be happy right around 10-12 degrees.

I want to give a 'holer out' to our Hawaiian racers. I just packed up an order for Tropics. The way it's been pissin' rain in Seattle, I want to hand deliver that one!
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:56 PM   #21668
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I built my CRC 3.2 Bloody tonight and noticed the rear axle was missing, Im assuming the kit is supposed to include one?
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:20 AM   #21669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDaveNT
I built my CRC 3.2 Bloody tonight and noticed the rear axle was missing, Im assuming the kit is supposed to include one?
Mine came with one.

Speaking of building the 3.2r... I just picked up my first 12th, any tips from you pros on building this one?
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:29 AM   #21670
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killingtime:
Check out this website for tips on building your 1/12 scale:
http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:39 AM   #21671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDaveNT
I built my CRC 3.2 Bloody tonight and noticed the rear axle was missing, Im assuming the kit is supposed to include one?

Mine came with one too. Should be in there!
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:50 AM   #21672
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http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/images/st...CKGen-X-01.jpg here it is the new crc
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:11 AM   #21673
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Wouldja lookit that...the pod side plates are the same other than the bottom motor mount slot is milled into the right side prior to annodizing. Looks like the top motor mount screw/washer will only pick up the bottom side?

Also answers my question re: updating the rear pod. Yeah, buy the whole assembly. Maybe the bottom plate is common?

Spoke to Mitch Witteman last night, he thought the new front end would be a bolt-on for the earlier cars.

Too cool...just wish CRC could have been straightforward enough with me a MONTH ago when asked if I should wait a little or build a couple new 3.2R's

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Old 11-03-2006, 08:13 AM   #21674
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VTL1180NY - Do I assume that you are running a Nomadio in your 1/12 scale? Based on the question for the hollow tube antenna. I had been using one in my 1/10 pan, 1/10 gas, 1/8 gas and loved it. But I have not had good luck with it in the 1/12 scale. The 4 cells and 19 turn motor that pulls some major amps. I tried a Spectrum cap, and a receiver pack and was not happy with either. Had both option go into safe mode - coast and no steering!

Robert - Sorry about the Name - Now engraved on my fore head Ashford Hobby, right!!
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:30 AM   #21675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Wouldja lookit that...the pod side plates are the same other than the bottom motor mount slot is milled into the right side prior to annodizing. Looks like the top motor mount screw/washer will only pick up the bottom side?
There is no right and left aluminum pod plate, they are identical and symmetrical.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Also answers my question re: updating the rear pod. Yeah, buy the whole assembly. Maybe the bottom plate is common?
The bottom plate is totally new. The links are a little bit closer to the center, and the hole pattern for the X-Pod plates are different than the Associated pod plates.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Spoke to Mitch Witteman last night, he thought the new front end would be a bolt-on for the earlier cars.
The front end uses the same bolt pattern as the Associated front end, so it will fit any car that an Associated front end fits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Too cool...just wish CRC could have been straightforward enough with me a MONTH ago when asked if I should wait a little or build a couple new 3.2R's Scottrik
They WERE straight-forward. The car was not ready for production one month ago. Frank was not happy with the durability of pre-production parts, and he would not release a car kit full of parts that either do not fit or are too fragile. If the latest batch of parts and hardware was still not adequate for release, then the release date would have been pushed back even further.

Most RC companies remember when Associated announced the release of their first electric touring car in 1998. They announced several release dates and did not meet them due to some delays caused by the production of the molded transmission gears. Some people and hobby shops beat up on Associated pretty bad, saying that they promised a product and then could not deliver. I think many companies learned from that incident, and it would be pretty stupid to announce a release date until you have 100% of the kit parts, all of the instructions and packaging completely ready to go. I think the only reason they are rushing out this first batch of kits is so that racers who would like to get the car in time for Cleveland have a chance to buy it and build it before then.
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