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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-31-2002, 08:51 PM   #2146
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yeah thats what i ended up doing. the passenger side mount was perfect. i just had to drill the hole for the driver side a bit across towards the centre of the car.
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Old 01-02-2003, 03:56 PM   #2147
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Does anyone know if AE T-bars can be used in the Yokomo 1/12 car? I just picked a yokomo worlds car up and was curious. Also, does anyone have any building or setup tips for this car? I'll be running it on a fairly big high traction ozite track. Thanks
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:53 AM   #2148
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Matt,

The Associated t-bar is a perfect fit. I'd run the .075 for carpet. Also, I'd go with .020 front springs to start. Have some .018 and .022 on hand to try as well.

T
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Old 01-03-2003, 11:55 AM   #2149
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Trips- thanks, I actually just found an old AE T-bar and compared the two. It looks like the holes for the plastic pieces that hold the T-bar balls in are space differently on the two T-bars though, luckily I still have a whole crapload of 12th scale pieces laying around so I still have all I need to run the AE t-bar. This is probably the best 12scale car that I have ever put together, I hope it runs as good as it looks.
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Old 01-03-2003, 09:32 PM   #2150
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Has anyone had problems with getting the suggested gearing installed on a stock motor in a 12L3? I am waiting for some 64 pitch gears from my lhs and in the meantime was going to set the car up with the stock 75 tooth 48 pitch gear and suggested 26 tooth pinion for a stock motor. I can't get the motor out far enough from the spur as it hits the T-plate.

I know most guys run the 98 or 100 tooth spur in 64 pitch. Is that spur alot smaller than the 75 tooth 48 pitch or am I missing something?

Secondly, what is a good 64 pitch pinion to start with on a 98 tooth spur with 2.00" tires?

Thanks
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Old 01-03-2003, 11:46 PM   #2151
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Angry Speedmerchant REV 3

A question for you REV 3 owners. Can the motor be put into the motor pod without taking off the top plate?
Thanks
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Old 01-03-2003, 11:54 PM   #2152
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bobby z, i read on associated's site that the suggested gearing won't fit unless you use the kimbrow offset ride height spacers, they forget to mention that in their manuals. for gearing you have to find the roll out to get proper gearing, if you are running a monster stock you can gear it around a 40-42mm roll out, green macine 3's are around 44-47, i gear 10 turns around a 35-37, 12's closer to 40.
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Old 01-04-2003, 12:17 PM   #2153
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Bobby Z, you need to dremel the back edge of the t-plate to about a 45 degree angle. Not too much, just enough to take the corner off. If you run the center screw you will also need to dremel the locknut and screw slightly too. With this done you can run as big as a 34 tooth pinion (64 pitch) with a 100 tooth spur. That way you don't change the wheel base or rear traction with the offset ride height spacers. I've run my L car like this for a long time and it doesn't affect the t-plate at all.

Fiddle, will the motor not fit from the bottom? I used to run a Rev. 2/Carpet Knife and I could put the motor in from the bottom. Just a thought...

Avink1, where do you normally race?
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Old 01-04-2003, 09:21 PM   #2154
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Dave, the motor cannot be put in without taking the top plate off. The performance enhancements outway the pain of taking 3 screws out.
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Old 01-04-2003, 10:10 PM   #2155
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Default Re: Tire Diameter

Quote:
Originally posted by Bobby Z
? I know what size they use at the big races (approx 1.9" rear and 1.7" front) but can you start a little bigger and still have a good handling car?
Nope, I played this out the past week, car will handle night and day different. The fronts need to be significantly ground down too. Try using multiple sets of tires(set for each run) so they don't get too soft and wear down too quick.
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Old 01-05-2003, 12:02 AM   #2156
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JonnySocko, I race at TRCH in Brooklyn Park, MN http://twincityhobby.com/

Last edited by Avink1; 01-05-2003 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 01-05-2003, 10:30 AM   #2157
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Hey fellow racers,This may sound stupid but what is roll out?(I know this has something to do with gear ratio = tire size)I just got a 12L3 First race yesterday,man that was fun.I tq and won but I had some of the 1/12 scale guys asking me stuff like whats your roll out,what tires are you using(I had no clue)So I thought If I'm going to start racing 1/12 scale I had better figure some stuff out(like what I'm doing..hahaha)The class I race in is ex.stock.Thanks for any help.
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Old 01-05-2003, 02:03 PM   #2158
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Trips- thanks, I actually just found an old AE T-bar and compared the two. It looks like the holes for the plastic pieces that hold the T-bar balls in are space differently on the two T-bars though, luckily I still have a whole crapload of 12th scale pieces laying around so I still have all I need to run the AE t-bar. This is probably the best 12scale car that I have ever put together, I hope it runs as good as it looks.

How did the car work? the call look good on the track but how did it feel?
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Old 01-05-2003, 06:38 PM   #2159
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
Hey fellow racers,This may sound stupid but what is roll out?(I know this has something to do with gear ratio = tire size)
There aren't any stupid questions...

Rollout is the distance the car will travel in one revolution of the motor. It is determined by dividing the circumference of the tires by the gear ratio and final drive, as in the following formula:

rollout = (tire diameter*3.14) / (spur/pinion)/(final drive ratio)

For a 1/12 car or any other direct drive vehicle, final drive ratio is 1.

For 4 cell stock with a Trinity Monster, I'm running in the neighborhood of 46mm, that's on a long sweeping carpet track.

T
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Old 01-05-2003, 10:30 PM   #2160
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Hi everyone, just wanted to mention that we just got in more of the TRC and Jaco 1/12th scale foam tires in stock. The TRC's are on the yellow wheels and of course the Jaco's are on the traditional grey wheels.

Thanks and have fun racing!
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