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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-24-2006, 04:20 AM   #21451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Yea, I guess I am crazy that way. Don't get me wrong, regreasing the diff from time to time is probably better then doing nothing. I am just trying to see how long a diff will last with out doing anything to it. I have raced 12th scale for 20 something years now and I really should know better.

But it just boggles my mind that it just will not wear out. I walk up to guys and tell the to check this diff out. They always say that it feels pretty good. Then I tell them it's the same balls and plates I have used for 6 months at a time for the past 3 winters in a mod car. It's always the same response: No way!

Well, I didn't invent sliced bread here, just a diff that lasts a long time.

Now if I could just come up with a way to "bottle talent", I'd be on to something.

Brian; Slapmaster Tools
oh,ok.i didnt realize that you were doing it as a test.i agree,a thrust is nothing new but it is for a car that doesnt have one. its cool that you do them and all new products are welcome in my book.its great for the hobby.i was just as little confused for a minute.the thrust assembly you have is a nice setup.i will be more than happy to buy one to give it a whirl.i am just very anal with my stuff and rebuild my diff after every race day regaurdless of feel.i wont be much of a durability tester for you
looks very nice and i will get with you sometime this week for one.
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Old 10-25-2006, 07:35 AM   #21452
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have you seen this

want 1 for my 12th so I hope they come up with a super micro system, so I can fit it along with my PT, Rx batts, esc, Rx, servo. Or should I make a stretched 12th
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Old 10-25-2006, 07:53 AM   #21453
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Kind of interesting, but a couple observations:

a) I just don't generate much heat with 4-cell 1/12. My lap times fall off before my gearing gets that high.

b) They reveal how much current draw the system has but don't mention weight anywhere. It ain't gonna be light.

c) Curious to see how that radiator/heat exchanger holds up to crashing (and crashing and crashing...). What will a replacement radiator cost?

d) Speaking of cost...150GBP for the brushless version? Holy cat--not for anyone worried about $25 thrust bearing kits, is it?

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Old 10-25-2006, 10:31 AM   #21454
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Heh guys, hope you guys can help with 19t. I've always run stock or mod, but since we are getting a carpet track in my area, a lot of guys are talking about running 19t. I plan to use a Komodo D, but need to know a good starting point for the motor in terms of springs, brushes and roll out. Thanks for the help in advance.
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Old 10-25-2006, 10:48 AM   #21455
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Carl,
I have had some luck using 767 with .010 trimmed from the trailing edge with red/purple and about a 1.52 - 1.65 r/o based on track lay out. I trimmed the trailing edge for heat reasons and it seemed to keep the motor stronger in the 4th quarter.

Trav Schreven peeled my stickers over the weekend with an F brush, full, red/black with a 1.48 roll out to my 1.52. Trav has more Nat's titles then I do... so take what I offer lightly.
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:04 AM   #21456
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I tried both the shaved 767s like Brian ran and the Full face F-brushes like Trav and went the same speed with both. If you go with the F-brush just make sure you go with a red/black or red/green spring setup, Purple is too stiff and the extra drag will increase brush & comm wear. For roll out I was around 39mm all weekend. Speed wise my car was about the same as Brian's towards the start of the race but lacked the batts to stay that way throughout the race. Once my new packs show up we'll see if my driving can keep with within a lap of Brian or 3 of Trav.

Mark
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:04 AM   #21457
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Default Thrust kits

Thanks for the great service Brian.
The thrust kits arrived right in time!!!
Take care, Jon
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:06 PM   #21458
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Thanks for the tuning advice guys. I'll be trying that stuff soon.
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:12 PM   #21459
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Yes, the Slapmaster Thrust assy is awesome. I just got mine a couple weeks ago, and it seems that every run, it just gets smoother. I was very impressed.

On another note, does anyone have a list of all the brush springs in order of their weight? Also, would say a green- and a green+ be the same weight? I am pretty new to the electric thing and would like to know what I am doing instead of someone just saying to run green/red. Do I want the heavier one on the + or- side? What all does this do? I knwo this should probably be in the motor tuning thread, but I think the 1/12th guys could probably explain it better. Thanks, Joe.
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:21 PM   #21460
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Yes you want the heavier spring on the positive side.
Get yourself a "fiddlestik" or spring rate tool by Trinity. Just because each
color is supposed to be the same, they aren't and they vary alot!!
lightest-blue
-green (Standard Trinity springs only)
-red
heavy -purple
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:50 PM   #21461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
I tried both the shaved 767s like Brian ran and the Full face F-brushes like Trav and went the same speed with both. If you go with the F-brush just make sure you go with a red/black or red/green spring setup, Purple is too stiff and the extra drag will increase brush & comm wear. For roll out I was around 39mm all weekend. Speed wise my car was about the same as Brian's towards the start of the race but lacked the batts to stay that way throughout the race. Once my new packs show up we'll see if my driving can keep with within a lap of Brian or 3 of Trav.

Mark
Hey mark first you got to pass me to get to Brian....
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:55 PM   #21462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edseb
Heh guys, hope you guys can help with 19t. I've always run stock or mod, but since we are getting a carpet track in my area, a lot of guys are talking about running 19t. I plan to use a Komodo D, but need to know a good starting point for the motor in terms of springs, brushes and roll out. Thanks for the help in advance.
full face F brushes with red springs + and - and roll it out at 47mm.this is the fastest combo i have found and it has been sickening fast.
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:59 PM   #21463
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hmm,now that i think about it,47mm roll out is what i use on asphalt.maybe 1-2 teeth lower will be better for carpet
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Old 10-25-2006, 05:03 PM   #21464
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Great info guys, what size track are you running on for those combos? We run on a ultra smoothe 100x48 track @ Omaha-HobbyPlex, and we were in the 1.75 range with 767's trimmed also, will have to try the f-brush, how does it hold up back to back? I remember the days in spring combos that was trinity tear-downs with blue springs boy those days are over Anyone try the new Jaco yellow / black tires yet?
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Old 10-25-2006, 05:03 PM   #21465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Hey mark first you got to pass me to get to Brian....
Yike
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