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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-21-2006, 09:50 PM   #21406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Well I put my Slapmaster diff kit in the 12th scale today for its maiden voyage (by me at least) and it worked awesome!! I had several RR impacts with the wall (1st time in years running 12th) and even broke the compete center out of a RR wheel and the diff is still perfect!!

Very happy and worth every penny of 25.00!!

EA

A couple of us here in San Antonio used the Slapmaster diff kits in 12th this weekend and I agree with EA, these kits are great. Money well spent!

Ronnie
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Old 10-21-2006, 10:26 PM   #21407
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it does look like a nice setup.i never had a problem with the flanged bearing setup but im sure that the thrust works well.
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Old 10-21-2006, 10:35 PM   #21408
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Great thing is, I had 99% of what was needed. As previously mentioned, all I needed was the actual thrust bearing. Silky smooth action and the exact same approach as the Slapmaster. Not trying to poke holes but stating there are other solutions with the same end results. I looked at a Slap kit earlier today and I put it all together from spares.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:48 AM   #21409
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all honesty,the thrust assembly should work very well and resist bearing destruction under side impact.if you use a new flanged bearing and dont hit anything,you will have the same end result with no improvement in diff action.you will still need to rebuild your diff if you want to be competitive at a high level with either setup being that the lube on the diff balls will spin out off the balls in the spur making it necesary to rebuild a diff quite often.the added security you get from not having to carry extra flanged bearings with you for when you hit a wall is nice.so,in a nut shell,for the application,an actual thrust bearing is the correct piece to use for the job,it is designed to withstand side load.does it make the diff smoother or work better if you have exact same conditions?(new flanged bearing vs. a thrust) no it will not.i think the added security and peace of mind makes it worth it.i personally have had the same flanged bearing in my diff for 6 months with no problems.if i take a good side shot to the rear end,i can say goodnight to that bearing.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:09 AM   #21410
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for guys that opt to use a flanged bearing,a trick to a longer lasting bearing that i do is i take 1 shield off the bearing,spray the oil out with motor spray and i pack it with AE black grease and i put the shield back on.i do this every 2 race days and the diff is silky smoothe.remember,the diff is one of the most important parts of the car.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:17 AM   #21411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
Great thing is, I had 99% of what was needed. As previously mentioned, all I needed was the actual thrust bearing. Silky smooth action and the exact same approach as the Slapmaster. Not trying to poke holes but stating there are other solutions with the same end results. I looked at a Slap kit earlier today and I put it all together from spares.
The only thing I'd caution is to be SURE your spacer has a lip that picks up the OUTSIDE race of the bearing. If it does, what is it--I'm sure a lot of folks (most of all Brian) would REALLY like to know. I've never seen anything that does, and if Brian had been able to source a ready-made piece I'm sure he'd have done it and the kits would be FAR less expensive. As it is, he has to hand-machine the spacers so they do that. All the "ready made" spacers I've ever seen (which certainly isn't to say "all") pick up the inside race (a la the CRC spacer, the Associated spacer, etc) which does not protect the bearing from side loads at all, it actually imparts the side loads. They use these to eliminate the thrust bearing and, hence, part count and cost.

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Old 10-22-2006, 07:24 AM   #21412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Well I put my Slapmaster diff kit in the 12th scale today for its maiden voyage (by me at least) and it worked awesome!! I had several RR impacts with the wall (1st time in years running 12th) and even broke the compete center out of a RR wheel and the diff is still perfect!!

Very happy and worth every penny of 25.00!!

EA
eric on a mission.MUST DESTROY 1/12TH!! what up bro.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:13 AM   #21413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i think the added security and peace of mind makes it worth it.i personally have had the same flanged bearing in my diff for 6 months with no problems.
I am just trying this out and found a very cheap solution. I concur with the quote above. Being the weight weinee I am, I will remove it. Having been a sponsored cyclist for years in the past, I know what it feels like to shave off weight.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:36 AM   #21414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
I am just trying this out and found a very cheap solution. I concur with the quote above. Being the weight weinee I am, I will remove it. Having been a sponsored cyclist for years in the past, I know what it feels like to shave off weight.
what did you race for cycles?i was a long time motocross guy for about 15 years.i wanted to get into road racing when i moved here about 6 years ago and the old people put an end to that.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:41 AM   #21415
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I started out with BMX in the mid eighties and moved up to MTB five years later rapping it up with triathlons. I miss the adrenaline highs! Sadly, I have $7k of full suspension sitting in storage.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:45 AM   #21416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
I started out with BMX in the mid eighties and moved up to MTB five years later rapping it up with triathlons. I miss the adrenaline highs! Sadly, I have $7k of full suspension sitting in storage.
nice,yeah,i started out with BMX in '84 and got into motocross right after the NY state champs.i raced motocross from there on out.now my knees and joints tell me not to and to stick with the RC stuff
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:50 AM   #21417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
now my knees and joints tell me not to and to stick with the RC stuff
After having to sit out two years from an injury in 97 from one of many other sports, I am in the same situation.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:57 AM   #21418
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Well.....off to the track for practice. Come out Yang! Burn a KT pass and practice.
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:00 AM   #21419
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can't rachel has a martial art's demo
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Old 10-22-2006, 01:22 PM   #21420
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New to 1/12th. Tires and roll out's. MM or inches?
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