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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-18-2006, 07:03 PM   #21361
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i thought maybe the speed 9 was a hair lower profile maybe.they looked the same to me.i will try one out and see if they feel any different
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:12 PM   #21362
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A back-pour of the Parma Speed 8? <sarcasm on>Never!<sarcasm off>

-Rich
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:19 PM   #21363
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Originally Posted by RichChang
A back-pour of the Parma Speed 8? <sarcasm on>Never!<sarcasm off>

-Rich
cuz there's already so much detail!
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:10 PM   #21364
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Hi all,

I have a question regarding the handling of my CK3.2r, I also posted on the crc forum but it wont harm to ask here as well ;-)

I'm experiencing a slight understeer I cant seem to get out of my CK.
I'm running pink in the rear and magenta up front -> why pink: doesnt wear that much... . This should be a good combination with plenty of steering. When the tire sauce is still in the tires -> full rear and 1/4 front, traction is great, a lot of steer throughout the corners and extremely direct. But after 4-5 minutes I start to lose front grip.

Setup is white side springs, corally soft in the tubes (pretty hard though), silver stiff center spring with 50wt oil. 0.20 front springs and 10 reactive caster blocks with the caster shims, 1 in front, 1 in the rear. ride height 3.5mm rear, 3 front (approximately)

Now I was thinking about 2 more things to do and thats make the rear roll center higher or the front roll center lower. If possible make the front one lower, I dont wanna lose rear grip so I should lower the front one, but is this possible??

Does anyone else have other ideas for me??

Thx in advance
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:16 PM   #21365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante
Hi all,

I have a question regarding the handling of my CK3.2r, I also posted on the crc forum but it wont harm to ask here as well ;-)

I'm experiencing a slight understeer I cant seem to get out of my CK.
I'm running pink in the rear and magenta up front -> why pink: doesnt wear that much... . This should be a good combination with plenty of steering. When the tire sauce is still in the tires -> full rear and 1/4 front, traction is great, a lot of steer throughout the corners and extremely direct. But after 4-5 minutes I start to lose front grip.

Setup is white side springs, corally soft in the tubes (pretty hard though), silver stiff center spring with 50wt oil. 0.20 front springs and 10 reactive caster blocks with the caster shims, 1 in front, 1 in the rear. ride height 3.5mm rear, 3 front (approximately)

Now I was thinking about 2 more things to do and thats make the rear roll center higher or the front roll center lower. If possible make the front one lower, I dont wanna lose rear grip so I should lower the front one, but is this possible??

Does anyone else have other ideas for me??

Thx in advance
What surface and which brand of tire traction compound? Also, where are your batteries? Your set-up actually looks like one that should have massive amounts of steering (mag fronts, silver spring) if your on carpet. Raising rear roll center would not be good in my opinion.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:35 PM   #21366
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Well, for the moment mostly driving on a medium grip carpet, with the CS grip traction compound.
Chassis doesnt have the adjustable battery positions so it should be equal to the rear position I believe.

Yep, I know, I should have plenty of steer... well, not that it handles bad, the car actually handles pretty good but I sense I could use more steering especially after 4-5 minutes, seems like the front traction compound wears out of the tire a lot faster.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:42 PM   #21367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante
Well, for the moment mostly driving on a medium grip carpet, with the CS grip traction compound.
Chassis doesnt have the adjustable battery positions so it should be equal to the rear position I believe.

Yep, I know, I should have plenty of steer... well, not that it handles bad, the car actually handles pretty good but I sense I could use more steering especially after 4-5 minutes, seems like the front traction compound wears out of the tire a lot faster.
How long do you leave the compound to soak into the tire? You might try letting it soak in a little longer. Sorry i've never used the CS stuff so I can't offer any guidelines.

-James
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:50 PM   #21368
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Mostly some 20 minutes, sometimes longer. Tried to vary this but it didnt make a lot of difference.
Sometimes (when the fun driving starts) no traction compound and then it keeps the (slight) understeer.
Now I recon that if I can setup the car when it has good steering without the compound, my overall grip balance will be better, even when using the traction compound.

What compound can be trusted to woth for the complete 8 minutes?? (if any...)

I think its great that itm getting such quick responses, thx guys.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:56 PM   #21369
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I'll wholeheartedly recommend the Niftech traction compound. Used it all last season and several other guys tried it. Just bought a case of it so we can each get 2-3 bottles for this season.

We found it to be VERY consistent over the 8 minutes racing on several different clubs' carpets including the new rubber-backed CRC. Doesn't start out "sticky" so there's no "pick-up" (dust, debris, etc) like many other compounds I've tried. I think that has a lot to do with how some cars lose grip mid-late heat.

It also seemed relatively unimportant how long or how short the "soak" was--one fewer thing for my feeble brain to keep track of.

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Old 10-19-2006, 03:06 PM   #21370
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Sounds great, now to find it somewhere around Belgium or germany ;-)

I'll have a look for it tomorrow, for now its "night night" time :-(

Thx for the help thusfar all
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:08 PM   #21371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
What surface and which brand of tire traction compound? Also, where are your batteries? Your set-up actually looks like one that should have massive amounts of steering (mag fronts, silver spring) if your on carpet. Raising rear roll center would not be good in my opinion.
OK, another 1/12 scale rookie question. How exactly do you raise or lower the roll center? On a CRC CK for instance. I know on a TC we would usually raise or lower the lower suspension arm or angle/shorten or flatten out/lengthen the camber link.
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:10 PM   #21372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
OK, another 1/12 scale rookie question. How exactly do you raise or lower the roll center? On a CRC CK for instance. I know on a TC we would usually raise or lower the lower suspension arm or angle/shorten or flatten out/lengthen the camber link.
You raise or lower the pivot ball pivot, either by shimming up the "football" or lowering it, and adjusting the shims under the pivot ball to keep the chassis and lower pod plate even. You can also vary the height of the side links by changing the shimming under there.

-James
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:15 PM   #21373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
How exactly do you raise or lower the roll center? On a CRC CK for instance.
Here you are Jon:

Specifically for the Carpet Knives

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Old 10-19-2006, 03:23 PM   #21374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck
You raise or lower the pivot ball pivot, either by shimming up the "football" or lowering it, and adjusting the shims under the pivot ball to keep the chassis and lower pod plate even. You can also vary the height of the side links by changing the shimming under there.

-James
That's what I thought. I just wanted to make sure.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 10-19-2006 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 10-19-2006, 04:42 PM   #21375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante
Mostly some 20 minutes, sometimes longer. Tried to vary this but it didnt make a lot of difference.
Sometimes (when the fun driving starts) no traction compound and then it keeps the (slight) understeer.
Now I recon that if I can setup the car when it has good steering without the compound, my overall grip balance will be better, even when using the traction compound.

What compound can be trusted to woth for the complete 8 minutes?? (if any...)

I think its great that itm getting such quick responses, thx guys.

i used cs grip traction on my old crc with the same tire combo, i only left the front 10 mins before rubbing it off and left the rears for 25 30mins and had no problem at all lasting the full 8 mins. You could try Jack the gripper red cap that also worked very well for me.
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