R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-17-2006, 03:21 PM   #21331
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

the bearing in the hub, not the thrust bearing. I have that same setup and it binds the bearing in the hub. because the collar is flat and the collare contacts the flange as well as the inner race of the bearing.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 03:24 PM   #21332
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,123
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
The bearing spins fine.... It's all been tested and it works... The thrust bearing is nothing new....
No, nothing new at all. And you may think yours works a treat...but it CAN work better. I've been doing RC pretty much exactly as long as you have, and I've GOT HPI bearings that did exactly what you've done, and it ain't the same. I didn't go back to the posts you'd referenced, but I'll wager they're the ones where Crimson Eagle made a thrust bearing kit while someone equally ignorant (not Crimson--he knew what the magic was) of JUST what Brian had accomplished with his a) resilient sleeve that b) is machined to pick up the OUTER race of the outer flanged bearing gave the HPI number and the CRC Aero-diff collar. The CRC collar picks up the INNER race, a flat-faced sleeve/collar does what was described above and taken the "action" out of that bearing.

Note that Crimson Eagle's set-up required machining too, and there was no way he was interested in doing it for others...he just did it to do it.

But by all means--you play with your toy cars the way you want to play with 'em. Those of us who understand what Brian's done will continue to pay $23 (or $28) for that little collar to go with our $2 thrust bearings.

Scottrik
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 05:08 PM   #21333
Tech Master
 
Alex C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: On a ship in the warm seas with no sail !!!
Posts: 1,638
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default 12 Scale with damper tubes

  • Question on running damper tubes versus damper washer's???
    • What are the pro's and con's??
    • Better suited for Stock or Mod??
  • If......using the damper tubes what type of lubrication are you utilizing.
    • What is the difference between lubes versun handling heavier weight compared to lighter weight lubes.
    • Recommended lubrication between runs.
    • Recommended MFG......CRC, Associated, etc.
    • If you do plan on running damper tubes.....do you need to run a stiffer center spring on a t-plate car.
Thanks again to all that reply back.



Best Regards,

Alex Cortez
__________________
Alex Cortez
Thank You to all My Sponsors
Ko Propo USA / RC America - Xray - Hudy / Max Power Engines / VP PowerMaster Fuel / Team Espo - "Lay it down Prop"!!!!

Last edited by Alex C; 10-17-2006 at 05:24 PM.
Alex C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 05:17 PM   #21334
Tech Regular
 
Z.Hallett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reston, Virginia
Posts: 401
Send a message via AIM to Z.Hallett
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
Question on running damper tubes versus damper washer's???
im guessing you want to know which one setup is better? well like most things in r/c, its all about feeling. this discs slow down pod action in all movements, be it forward, right, left, etc... tubes slow pod movement in the side to side motion. it all comes down to feeling.

i like tubes better, but thats me, it fits my driving style and car setup.

-Zac
Z.Hallett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 05:41 PM   #21335
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Capitalism is fun. Self-employment... even better. Take an idea to create a faster mouse trap and bring it to market. Spend time promoting. Take the financial risk. Buy tools. Build a shop to produce everything. Race as much as possible and promote even more.

Raw materials cost very little compared to other items listed. If you like my ideas, then you can choose to support them.

If you have all the items at your disposal, then build away. Who knows, you might come up with something better.

It's rare to find individuals that want to build "speed" from the ground up. Now a days, everyone just wants to buy it and bolt it in. That's what I provide.

Brian
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 05:50 PM   #21336
Tech Elite
 
vtl1180ny's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wrong Island
Posts: 4,961
Default

It's the RTR generation... I come from the generation who walked into the LHS, picked out all the kit and everything to go with it, went home and put it together... Then we reengineered the car and made it our own...

I'd rather do it myself....
__________________
I still lurk....
vtl1180ny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 05:54 PM   #21337
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Alex,
I will echo Zac's thoughts. I like the individuality of the damping between tubes and shock. I find that with CRC tubes, that the clearance is just right to use regular shock oil. I use a few drops of X Ray 50wt on each tube. Trinity purple stuff also works great. I find that heavier side dampening speeds up steering response, but if you have a track lay out with chicanes, too thick may hold a tweak by the 3rd turn. Going lighter will slow down steering response, but you should get a little more steering exit out. Probably just the opposite on center oil if you are going to tubes from a disc. Disc, if you run lube, has dampening 360 degree which will factor into your center dampening. To get the same lateral dampening when going to tubes, you may need to oil up in the center shock.

But it's all about the feel! ... and the lap times.
Brian
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 06:07 PM   #21338
Tech Regular
 
Z.Hallett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reston, Virginia
Posts: 401
Send a message via AIM to Z.Hallett
Default

sorry double post

-Zac
Z.Hallett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 06:08 PM   #21339
Tech Regular
 
Z.Hallett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reston, Virginia
Posts: 401
Send a message via AIM to Z.Hallett
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Alex,
I find that heavier side dampening speeds up steering response, but if you have a track lay out with chicanes, too thick may hold a tweak by the 3rd turn. Going lighter will slow down steering response, but you should get a little more steering exit out. Brian

i thought a lighter fluid sped up response steering wise b/c the rear pod would roll faster. a thicker fluid made steering response more lacidasical b/c the rear pod moved slower form side to side. this would slow down overall chassis roll.

i am not trying to start a battle, but am merely curious as to what it does.

-Zac
Z.Hallett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 06:13 PM   #21340
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Well, unless I am out to lunch, put gum in the damper tubes take it for a lap and see how it feels.

I can always use a good slap and a correction from time to time
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 06:24 PM   #21341
Tech Regular
 
Z.Hallett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reston, Virginia
Posts: 401
Send a message via AIM to Z.Hallett
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Well, unless I am out to lunch, put gum in the damper tubes take it for a lap and see how it feels.

I can always use a good slap and a correction from time to time

sorry but are you agreeing w/ me? im not exactly sure what you mean.

at first you almost mock me, but at the end it seems like youre agreeing w/ me.

-Zac
Z.Hallett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 06:52 PM   #21342
Tech Addict
 
RichChang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 587
Default

SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE

THICKER increases front traction adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.

THINNER decreases front traction decreases steering.


---

Why does this seem opposite of what we would think? Because with thicker lube the car stays flatter around center longer so it is a lot more sensitive around center to steering input. Pressure on the inside tire stays longer with thicker lube.

Remember - the rear pod is on a fixed axle. So, the side to side movement you are controlling is the main chassis and the front suspension.
RichChang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 06:57 PM   #21343
Tech Regular
 
Z.Hallett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reston, Virginia
Posts: 401
Send a message via AIM to Z.Hallett
Default

hey rich, thanks for clearing that up. ya its wierd because it is counter-intuitive to what we may think.

-Zac
Z.Hallett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 07:10 PM   #21344
OVA
Tech Champion
 
OVA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: WASHINGTON
Posts: 8,500
Trader Rating: 67 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Capitalism is fun. Self-employment... even better. Take an idea to create a faster mouse trap and bring it to market. Spend time promoting. Take the financial risk. Buy tools. Build a shop to produce everything. Race as much as possible and promote even more.

Raw materials cost very little compared to other items listed. If you like my ideas, then you can choose to support them.

If you have all the items at your disposal, then build away. Who knows, you might come up with something better.

It's rare to find individuals that want to build "speed" from the ground up. Now a days, everyone just wants to buy it and bolt it in. That's what I provide.

Brian
I hear you ......
__________________
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work
OVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 08:04 PM   #21345
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Harwood, MD
Posts: 2,522
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have a link or a pic of the thrust washer system? Where to get them?
THE DOCTOR is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:53 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0