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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-17-2006, 12:39 PM   #21316
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again read what was written. there is a delrin collar. that is the special "sauce"
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:51 PM   #21317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
again read what was written. there is a delrin collar. that is the special "sauce"
Here ya go... Have fun.... 1/12 forum

There's no "special sauce...."
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:55 PM   #21318
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not sure what you are pointing to, but the delrin collar rides on the outside of the bearing in the hub, not on the inside like every other collar on the market. so unless you can find that collar somewhere for a couple of $, the hpi thrust bear does you no good.
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:08 PM   #21319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
not sure what you are pointing to, but the delrin collar rides on the outside of the bearing in the hub, not on the inside like every other collar on the market. so unless you can find that collar somewhere for a couple of $, the hpi thrust bear does you no good.

So I guess the setup I've been using on my car doesn't work? Rebuilt my diff on saturday and it was working perfectly....
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:13 PM   #21320
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I am not sure I understand what you are hoping to accomplish? If you don't want to pay that amount, then don't buy it. If others feel the same as you, they won't buy it.

In the free market that we have in this country, there are always different ways of doing things and there will be price differences.

If you have all this energy and desire to claim certain prices are rip-offs, then why don't you target the big r/c manufacturers and the pricing on tires, bodies, etc. So a 1/12th body at $25 is "overpriced" going off your theory that material cost is probably less than a dollar?

Heck, why don't we just move to an economic system where there isn't any profit for anything? Forget factors such as time, people resources, research, tooling, etc. Just go off of cost of materials and make sure it all equals zero in the end...

-Rich

Last edited by RichChang; 10-17-2006 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:35 PM   #21321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Noooo... you're paying $24.99 for the ability not to buy $10 ceramic bearings, or $5 steel bearings, again, and again, and again... Why is it these sort of remarks always come from people who know the price of everything, and the value of nothing.

Anything you buy in RC is paying 10 times the cost of making it, or buying a little RC car from Tyco/Toys 'R Us. However, the value we get out of it is the fun we have, the things we learn and the friends we meet.

Buy it, don't buy it - your call. But please, spare me the argument that you know what it costs; lots of us know what it's value is, and, speaking personally, I resent you infering that I am an idiot because I buy something you can't see the value of, and I can.
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:40 PM   #21322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
So I guess the setup I've been using on my car doesn't work? Rebuilt my diff on saturday and it was working perfectly....
I don't know what "your" setup is, but if all you are doing is sliding a thrust bearing in between your cone washer and the retaining nut, then no, it does not work. all that does is off load some of the pressure on the outer bearing of the hub.

the slapmaster completely remove the pressure off that outer bearing in your hub. the beauty of it is that you use the thrust bearing where if was ment to be. your setup has a lateral load still on the outer bearing. which will fail just as if you did not have the thrust bearing at all.

and as rich says, "if you don't want to spend the money, then don't"what I am trying to do is make sure you understand what you are "not" buying. My original understanding of the slapmaster was the same as you
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:41 PM   #21323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
Just pop out the red wire, fold it back and put a tiny bit of electrical tape or shrink wrap so it you ever plan on running the ESC in a car without a reciver pack
Hope that helps,
-Shookie <><
tried that before posting.

no joy
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:43 PM   #21324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
Noooo... you're paying $24.99 for the ability not to buy $10 ceramic bearings, or $5 steel bearings, again, and again, and again... Why is it these sort of remarks always come from people who know the price of everything, and the value of nothing.

Anything you buy in RC is paying 10 times the cost of making it, or buying a little RC car from Tyco/Toys 'R Us. However, the value we get out of it is the fun we have, the things we learn and the friends we meet.

Buy it, don't buy it - your call. But please, spare me the argument that you know what it costs; lots of us know what it's value is, and, speaking personally, I resent you infering that I am an idiot because I buy something you can't see the value of, and I can.
What bearings did I buy? I took them out, cleaned tham and put them back in... First time I did this in almost 2 years, but I stripped a gear so I figured it was time.

I've been involved in RC since 1976, I've spent more than my fair share on parts....
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:58 PM   #21325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
Here ya go... Have fun.... 1/12 forum

There's no "special sauce...."

You should reference the post #.
The # of posts per page is an option, so my page 273 can be different than yours.
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Old 10-17-2006, 02:10 PM   #21326
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Here you go and I'm done with this subject...


When's the new CRC hitting the market?
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Old 10-17-2006, 02:25 PM   #21327
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yup, that is exacly what I though. that collar puts the pressure on the inner race of the outer flanged bearing. it does nothing to elimiate the lateral load on that bearing. which is how that bearing fails. the only thing that the hpi thrust does is make it a little finer adjustment of the tension of the axel.

the slapmaster move that lateral load the the outer flange of the bearing. this basically elimites completely the lateral load of the outer bearing and only uses that outer bearing for the hub to rotate on the axel, and the latteral load is not taken by the thrust bearing.

the setup you are runnign is not giving alot of improvement over not having it at all. I run that setup because I like the finer adjustment on axel tension.
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:06 PM   #21328
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Lip side goes up against thrust bearing, many of us at my track are running this setup with no bearing failure and silky smooth diffs...
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:11 PM   #21329
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but to put the flat side against the bearing, you are basically removing the usefulness of that bearing. because the flat side will ride on the bearing race as well as the flange. it does save the breaing, but you have basically removed the bearing and put a bushing in it's place.
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:15 PM   #21330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
but to put the flat side against the bearing, you are basically removing the usefulness of that bearing. because the flat side will ride on the bearing race as well as the flange. it does save the breaing, but you have basically removed the bearing and put a bushing in it's place.
The bearing spins fine.... It's all been tested and it works... The thrust bearing is nothing new....
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