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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-16-2006, 08:59 AM   #21301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Another EXCELLENT choice is the bumper offered by Brian Bodine/Slapmaster tools. See his "site" at http://www.slapmastertools.com/ and you'll see a pic of the bumper at the bottom. His e-mail address is there too and he gets stuff out VERY quickly.

Get a thrust bearing assembly while you're at it. I've got bumpers and thrust assemblies on all three 3.2R's here.

Scottrik
That's the same one that Ashford carries. He has Brian's other accessories too.
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:14 PM   #21302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
more will give you more turn in and more aggressive feel. less droop will tone the car down,less aggressive feel.
how do you realy do this,thx
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Old 10-16-2006, 11:15 PM   #21303
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Oh Boy, the word is out.... agian! It's true. Robert at Ashford just picked up my product line. He's a super guy to deal with. He has his website up to speed and the real time inventory is very cool. Robert has been adding 12th scale product to vast inventory. It looks like he's already picked up the things we all crave.

Let's see if I can edit enough of my "sales pitch" to keep me from getting bounced out of here:

The thrust bearing replaces the cone washer that ultimately destroys the
1/4x3/8" bearing. You can run your diff tighter, therefore it lasts much
longer, transmit more power without slippage and dare I say... will be a
lifetime purchase for your car. They don't wear out. You need to let me know if you have a standard or the Niftech axle. This product does not work on the Corrally or Yokomo axles. 10th Scale Guys!!! Are you tired of blowing you diff up every other run as well? Do you have a 12th scale Niftech axle? SMT#109 Diff thrust kit was made for 10th scale cars and Niftech axles. I also have SMT#105 12th scale foam bumpers that help protect your chassis and body while greatly reducing those post hole tears and driving big dipples into the frontal "sponsor area". They weigh a whooping 2 grams! Protection from 2g's, how can you run without it?

Thanks for you inquiry,
Brian

blbodine@comcast.net
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Old 10-17-2006, 04:14 AM   #21304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
how do you realy do this,thx
you adjust the droop with center shock length.some times you will need to cut the ballcups on the shock shorter so you can shorten the shock more.the shock will bottom out and stop the chassis from lifting more.
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Old 10-17-2006, 06:40 AM   #21305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
more will give you more turn in and more aggressive feel. less droop will tone the car down,less aggressive feel.
When you say more droop you mean more downtravel on the motorpod, correct?
What would be a good starting point for pod droop?

Edit: typo
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:20 AM   #21306
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In-Line front axles

what effect will the in-line front axles have a 12th car?
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:52 AM   #21307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
what effect will the in-line front axles have a 12th car?
It will cause a huge increase in steering response and the car becomes really twitchy in general.

Most folks that try it in 1/12th don't like it (me included). But, give it a whirl and see. Won't know until you try.

-Rich
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:02 AM   #21308
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Whether I am correct in my thinking or not, but in my view there are two "components" to what the rear pod does in regards to 'droop.'

Droop for me is how far down the rear of the pod can travel down. How adjustable this is depends on whether the car has a T-bar or not. The link cars that do not have T-bars have a lot more range of how much the rear pod can sag (depending on center shock length). In general I adjust it to be either 1 - 2 mm. How do I measure that? I set my droop setting blocks from my touring car under the main chassis and then use the droop gauge to measure how far down the rear edge of the pod sits.

Sag for me is how far down the front of the pod and the back of the main chassis sit below normal ride height. In general I keep it level but sometimes I let it sag about .5 - 1.0mm below ride height.

Those two components (droop and sag) work together in affecting the car's handling - especially off and on power.

What I mean is, if the sag is set at 0mm and the droop is set at 1mm, that is effectively 1mm of droop travel. However, if the sag is set at 1mm and the droop is also set at 1mm, then there is effectively 2mm of droop travel.

-Rich


Quote:
Originally Posted by teo
When you say more droop you mean more downtravel on the motorpod, correct?
What would be a good starting point for pod droop?
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:26 AM   #21309
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I believe in Capatilism but $24.99 for a $2.00 bearing?
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:47 AM   #21310
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Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
it would be a good idea to understand what you are getting before flaming
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:53 AM   #21311
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Default Ceramic Bearings

A buddy of mine here in Michigan sells ceramic bearings for various cars and just received a new shipment which includes front and rear bearings for 1/12th cars. I do not know if he has unflanged front bearings, tho.

If anyone is interested I can ask him to post on here with his info. He's primarily just been selling them locally to the local hobby shops in the area.

Or, if you are a hobby shop and would like to carry his bearings, let me know and I'll have him get in contact with you.

His prices are low so you won't cry for a day if a bearing gets blown out in a bad crash.

-Rich
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:58 AM   #21312
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I'm not sure where you can get the thrust and races for $2, but I'll go with what you say for my argument.

You ARE paying exactly $2 for the $2 bearing. The remaining $23 is for the machined delrin collar that makes it work. In my case I paid $28 for those collars and feel they were well worth the money. Yes, I probably could make them myself, but it just ain't worth the time sourcing the material and setting up the lathe to do two or three of them when someone has already invented that "wheel".

Scottrik
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:00 AM   #21313
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have a look here folks and see if you can help

VXR Li-Po / Regulator Problem
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:19 AM   #21314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
have a look here folks and see if you can help

VXR Li-Po / Regulator Problem
Yea remove the red wire from the ESC going into the Reciver...It is tryign to give power to the reciever when there is none needed...
Just pop out the red wire, fold it back and put a tiny bit of electrical tape or shrink wrap so it you ever plan on running the ESC in a car without a reciver pack
Hope that helps,
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:35 PM   #21315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
it would be a good idea to understand what you are getting before flaming
Not flaming... check out page 273 of this very thread....


Quote:
I'm not sure where you can get the thrust and races for $2, but I'll go with what you say for my argument.

You ARE paying exactly $2 for the $2 bearing. The remaining $23 is for the machined delrin collar that makes it work. In my case I paid $28 for those collars and feel they were well worth the money. Yes, I probably could make them myself, but it just ain't worth the time sourcing the material and setting up the lathe to do two or three of them when someone has already invented that "wheel".

Scottrik
Actually $5 total....
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