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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-23-2002, 11:39 AM   #2116
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ROLLINGaFTGT, you should be able to finish 8 minutes with what you already have. you said that you normally run sedan, i think thats your problem. its a lot easier to finish a mod sedan race than a 1/12 scale race. depending where you have your motor geared it could make you dump a lot faster than you should. with a 13 turn i think you should have it geared around a 40mm roll out, but this is just a guess because i don't know how big your track is. if you are dumping that fast you might be using way too much throttle and you have to learn to be a lot smoother with that. also slow your motor down, run the timing at about 8-10 degrees and cut about a third off the top of one brush and do the same on the bottom of the other brush. also run trinity green springs, this will all help you to increase your run time. or if you want to spend some money you can always upgrade to 3300's.
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Old 12-24-2002, 11:24 AM   #2117
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Merry CHRISTmas everyone!

Mike509- Along with Silver fronts have you tried using a thinner lube on the damper disks? What did it do for you?

Trackdesign71- Didn't see it as i left before the snow was due to hit but i AM glad that Dosey won! It sounds like it was a great show.

RollingFGT- You've hit upon one of the most important points in running modified. It's much harder to not only turn faster laps but actually make run time to. First off you need to cycle your packs to see what they are for run time and voltage. Often racers forget that with NiMH cells they start to deteriorate after 10-30 charges. Since many racers don't keep up with how many cycles (charge/discharge) they have on a pack they often exceed these figures rather quickly. Also, modified racing of any form is harder on batteries typically than running stock so that the deterioration process starts sooner and is more severe. My bet is that your 3k packs if they were cycled at 20-30amps (whaterver the numbers are that they were matched at) would be lower than the lables. Normally when you put a pack together a rule of thumb is to subtract 10sec from the numbers on the cell for a 4cell pack and 15sec for a 6cell pack due to the extra resistance of them being a pack. Anything after this give or take 10sec is normally the pack deteriorating on the run time front. Voltage should be close so any significant loss here is also pack deterioration. If you find that the numbers of your pack are less than 490 at 20amps or 330 at 30amps discharge then i would say you need new packs first off to run 14-12turns and higher for lower turns than this. This is assuming 4cell racing where 14-12turns are considered rather mild. If you are running 6cell than these would be rather hot and you would probably need 540's at 20amps or 360's at 30amps. Now here comes the most important parts: Driver Efficiency, Car Efficiency.

Let me explain: Driver Efficiency- IF you stab the throttle instead of easing into it and out of it you will use considerably more battery juice thus needing better batteries. If you turn the wheel abruptly instead of smoothly then you will "load" the car up more and use more battery. If turn late into corners or run too deep into corners then you will "load" the car up more and use more battery to get out of the corner and thus dump. Also hitting stuff takes runtime out of your battery because it spikes the pack causing more amp draw and results in lower voltage to. I've been told that a crash can cost around 10sec or run time, i don't now for sure but i don't doubt it. If you have 4 bad crashes you could be losing major runtime and not finish.

Car Efficiency- In general a pushing car will be easier on batteries than one that steers well but you will be slower per lap. You save battery as much from not running as many laps (which is going a longer distance on the same fuel) as you do from having to slow down which keeps the car from loading up as much. In this case a better setup is needed. If your car's bearings are bad then you can lose runtime. A KEY setup point is the differential. If this is not smooth and free with the gear being locked so that it doesn't spin your car won't be fast or efficient because it won't turn and accelerate well. It will waist a lot of your power and spike the battery as the gear finally "catches" and accelerates. Tweak also plays a big roll in car efficiency as a "tweaked" car will load up one side more and be "loose" on the other side causing more amp draw per lap than normal.

Finally, check and make sure that your gearing is good. Try to make sure that you are peaking out about 3/4 down the straight. Anything less and you are probably undergeared and this can cause you to dump and if you seem to still be accelerating after 3/4 of the straight than you are probably overgeared and this will cause you to dump also. Check the condidtion of the motor and brushes and if the motor has been run a lot maybe get the magnets re-zapped if you can. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-24-2002, 11:48 AM   #2118
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Hey Tigger.....happy Kawanza or happy Channaka and a Merry New Year.... Any way are you racing this weekend? I finally got that CD burned for you that we talked about this fall....next time I see you I will give it to ya.

Merry Christmas everyone....even you Dave
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USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
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Old 12-24-2002, 12:10 PM   #2119
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Merry Christmas all and Happy New Year
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Old 12-24-2002, 01:40 PM   #2120
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Merry Xmas everyone, it's only 2h 20 to go for me
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Old 12-24-2002, 10:45 PM   #2121
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Merry CHRISTmas, only one gift to wrap and then some egg nog and to bed with me. LOL!
Kev, i am thinking of practicing at Venture on Thurs. and either racing at Venture on Sat. if you and someone else will run 12th mod with me or going up to Trackside on Sunday and doing some morning practice and inbetween rounds practice. Thus i should see you on one of these three days, no?
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Old 12-25-2002, 01:37 PM   #2122
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Nice info darnold on run time-
its also helped me to read your post,never thought about crashing taking power out of the batteries etc etc
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Old 12-25-2002, 01:49 PM   #2123
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by mike5009
[B]can anybody help me get more turn in on an older corally sp12G3.

here in the U.K we generally run Corally Gold rears & silver fronts

If you need more grip on the front try gold rears & gold fronts.
If this don't help then you could try softer front springs,or loosen the ones you have on now,
or-put addertive on the front earlyer/addertive later on the rears-(i dont know if its the same for tarmac has we only race on carpet etc)
--Hope this helps--
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Old 12-26-2002, 09:14 AM   #2124
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Happy Holidays everyone,

Hope everyone got what they wanted from Santa this year. I received today off as a gift so I'm going to the track today!!

Tigger, I need to head up your way after the first to check out Venture. Send me the address so I can map it. I'm heading to my local track today and down to Skip Starkey's this weekend to run with Sean. Going anywhere for a New Year's day race? I'm going to Cincy to run with Eli and the gang.

Dragon, Tell TR he needs to get the track set up permanently somewhere so you guys can practice during the week. I'm thinking of coming down sometime when you have another 3-day race or something.
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Old 12-26-2002, 10:15 AM   #2125
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Merry Christmas everyone! Got a few things for the car and some for my TC. Hope everyone is having a good one!
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Old 12-27-2002, 12:49 AM   #2126
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jonnysoko- really wanted to go to the new year's gig at cincy since i will be unable to make it to the Silver City Shootout (3rd leg of the USTC) but the forecast is for snow off and on from here through to cincy and my rear wheel drive TTZX doesn't like snow one bit.

I'll get you the address tomorrow for Venture and all you have to do is let me know when you are coming and we can do 12th mod! YIPEEEEE!!! Do you think you will be coming within the next couple of weeks? Big Race day is Saturday but they also race on Wed. nights, Friday nights, and Sundays.

Stevie- Thanks
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Old 12-27-2002, 04:38 AM   #2127
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I am going to the Silver City Shootout, who else is going?
Serpent USA www.serpentamerica.com, King Max Servos, Gens Ace, MIP, www.miponline.com,Schelle , WWW. Schelleracing.com, Slavich Designs, GARCIA GRAPHIX

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Old 12-27-2002, 04:54 AM   #2128
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I am going (its my home track, so i see no reason not too )
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Old 12-27-2002, 07:28 AM   #2129
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What classes will you be running? I will be in 1/10 touring pro stock, and 1/12th pros stock.
Serpent USA www.serpentamerica.com, King Max Servos, Gens Ace, MIP, www.miponline.com,Schelle , WWW. Schelleracing.com, Slavich Designs, GARCIA GRAPHIX

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Old 12-27-2002, 10:45 AM   #2130
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12th stock and pan sedan (which is a narrow 200mm 10th scale, a big 12th scale basically).
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