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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-12-2006, 06:17 PM   #21226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i have run both the speed 8 and the speed 12.the speed 12 doesnt feel as locked in at low speeds as the speed 8.both are fine ay high speed though.i prefer the speed 8 in every condition i have run in.
Yeah I have seen you flyin' with the S8 for sure. Seen some guys recently using them and they looked pretty balanced. The 12 isn't for me I dont think,I just dont get the right vibe off of it or something. I'll try the rear higher up next time then decide if it works for me. You have your 12th as a full production kit yet?
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:33 PM   #21227
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On the flip side to you guys, I never liked the Parma Speed 8. The old Proto Speed 8 seems to work okay though. The Parma Speed 8 seemed to cause a lack of steering when I used it...effect of the lower downforce shell I guess.

I personally love the Speed 12 in Stock/19 and Mod...too bad they arn't more durable though
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:42 PM   #21228
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speed 8 having no steering?wow,i found exactly the oposite.i found the speed 8 has more low speed steering and the speed 12 needs to be driven on power to get steering.the speed 8 seems to have great all around steering and the speed 12 seems like it would be better on fast sweeping tracks.
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:45 PM   #21229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Yeah I have seen you flyin' with the S8 for sure. Seen some guys recently using them and they looked pretty balanced. The 12 isn't for me I dont think,I just dont get the right vibe off of it or something. I'll try the rear higher up next time then decide if it works for me. You have your 12th as a full production kit yet?
im getting there slowly on the full kit.things have been real busy at the shop.check out the results from last weekend at speedlinehobbies.com
my 1/12th was dialed.
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Old 10-12-2006, 07:28 PM   #21230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
The biggest difference is the 3.2R has a 2.5mm chassis and lower pod plate compared to the 2.2-ish (iir) mm thickness of the 3.1 and straight 3.2 chassis. The 3.2R chassis is a bit narrower at the rear of the main chassis plate and the easy visual reference is it is the three csk screw holes drilled around the chassis cutout between the front arms for picking up the mounting ears on the AMB transponder.

The hardware for any of these is common, so a parts car is one way to do it. There is an evolution of some hardware, particularly depending on what version of 3.1 you pick up, but nothing too bad--all the bits will fit. The key is if you have a 3.2R chassis plate you NEED a 3.2R lower pod plate and vice-versa.

Scottrik
Thanks for the info on that. I was checking out my parts car, and like you said, lower pod plate is 2.2 ish and the chassis is 2.5. I guess I'll have to pick one of those up. The car has a complete big ring diff with the red crc lowered pods, so I just assumed the lower pod plate was correct! I bought a parts car.. it was on the forum for sale with a 12L3 so I should be able to complete the car now, thanks!
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Old 10-12-2006, 09:11 PM   #21231
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Default different bodz

Has anyone tried the CEFX lmp-900 body?
We like it for 19t high bite carpet. Stable w/alot of steering!!

I normally carry a s8 & a s12 when I run stock and check lap times.
Different layouts=different body choice

Thanks for the tip Chopsticks!!
Good tuning aid and quick too.
We missed ya at the Hurricane race.
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:26 PM   #21232
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does anyone make a dampning tube kit for the 12L4 ? and is it better then the pods ?

Thanks
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:29 PM   #21233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggster
Has anyone tried the CEFX lmp-900 body?
We like it for 19t high bite carpet. Stable w/alot of steering!!

I normally carry a s8 & a s12 when I run stock and check lap times.
Different layouts=different body choice

Thanks for the tip Chopsticks!!
Good tuning aid and quick too.
We missed ya at the Hurricane race.
I bet on carpet its great. My experience on asphalt was stable but more push than some other shells I'm used to. I'm trying the parma next .
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:21 PM   #21234
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I ran a 12b for the first time last weekend and it was not announced for the majority of the race how we were doing. I managed to pick-up another lap. BUT, the front of the car skipped through the first part of the turns until I dumped (braked) some speed. I must not have had the right setting on the body post or right tires up front. Can't help but think I could have been faster. I will try the speed 8 this weekend.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:24 PM   #21235
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Default speed 12

just done a speed 12
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:26 PM   #21236
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How much do you want for it?
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:32 PM   #21237
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Now you guys are getting me nervous...I ran Speed 8's exclusively the last two seasons (on carpet) and thought they had, overall, pretty good balance but I fought a front push on fast sweepers from the outset. Any time I got to where the push was almost gone I'd compromised some other area of performance enough that the payoff wasn't there.

SO, this year I picked up a 12 and a 12b to run figuring to have that high speed push eliminated with a bit more front downforce. Paid to have 'em painted (a first for me) too, and now I'm concerned they won't perform as well as my good 'ol 8's

I've also got a couple different CEFX bodies to try too...

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Old 10-12-2006, 11:33 PM   #21238
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the flash kills the flake In it the gold is 5 coloers very deep!
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:36 PM   #21239
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Correct me if I am wrong, but the 12 b does not improve downforce !?!? I need to pop over to the web site and read about it.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:42 PM   #21240
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Arrow up dpwn

from what i read the track will be the test check the lap times....make me a offer $$$$$$$ I spent a lot of time on it
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