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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-11-2006, 08:59 PM   #21211
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Default 12L4 pod Question

Guys on my 12L4 do I add shims to the part#4542 to level my pod?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf drawing_12l4.pdf (310.5 KB, 165 views)
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:03 PM   #21212
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the shim size really depends on the thickness of t plate you use.you do not need those exact shims.you can use any washers you like for a 4-40 screw.the way you want to shim the pod is so the chassis and pod are level with eachother.
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:09 PM   #21213
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over this past tuesday racing I was amazed by something that I never would have thought about. My 12L4 was really twitchy with the speed 12b. Ive been running a speed 8 for the longest time and it was quite a big change. At that point Paul was watching my car and noticed the rear was really low. So he raised it up a hole on the body posts, and it was like a night and day difference. I could drive the car into the corners and not worry about the car being all over the place. He said for mod he runs the rear of his body even higher. ive always cut the body at the marked lines so the thought never went through my head. If anyone has slight handling issues I would recommend looking at the rear body height and possibly raise it to calm the car down.
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:14 PM   #21214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
no tweak screws.


i ordered one 4 days ago
http://www.yokomousa.com/JA_site/new...oducts2006.htm
I like the Yokomo link which says .... for more details click here... and it gives you this... http://www.yokomo.co.jp/yokomonew/ne...su/SP-4335.pdf

The advantages outlined are somewhat amazing especially on the 2nd line from the top.
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:52 PM   #21215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aantonis
I like the Yokomo link which says .... for more details click here... and it gives you this... http://www.yokomo.co.jp/yokomonew/ne...su/SP-4335.pdf

The advantages outlined are somewhat amazing especially on the 2nd line from the top.
No, they didn't say that did they?
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:13 PM   #21216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
over this past tuesday racing I was amazed by something that I never would have thought about. My 12L4 was really twitchy with the speed 12b. Ive been running a speed 8 for the longest time and it was quite a big change. At that point Paul was watching my car and noticed the rear was really low. So he raised it up a hole on the body posts, and it was like a night and day difference. I could drive the car into the corners and not worry about the car being all over the place. He said for mod he runs the rear of his body even higher. ive always cut the body at the marked lines so the thought never went through my head. If anyone has slight handling issues I would recommend looking at the rear body height and possibly raise it to calm the car down.
I was glad to read this and want to give it a try.... I went back to a 12b on my carpet knife and was really not liking the feel at all, very twitchy not locked in at all. This was after going from the old protoform nissan gtp type shell ( love that shell, it just feels perfect). So good news to hear,I will give it a shot. But hey, would you still give the nod to the speed8? It's one I haven't tried yet. It just looks like it would be easy to drive I must say .
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:51 PM   #21217
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speed 8

speed 8 won at the IIC race this year for stock and the speed 12 in MOD
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:57 PM   #21218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator
Can someone please give me the basic differences between the CRC CK 3.1 and 3.2R? I have about an 85% complete car. I have the rear pod and complete rear axle, chassis, and front end. I am just missing some pieces to join the pod to the main chassis, shock, damper tubes etc. I am looking at picking up a used 3.1 for pieces.
The biggest difference is the 3.2R has a 2.5mm chassis and lower pod plate compared to the 2.2-ish (iir) mm thickness of the 3.1 and straight 3.2 chassis. The 3.2R chassis is a bit narrower at the rear of the main chassis plate and the easy visual reference is it is the three csk screw holes drilled around the chassis cutout between the front arms for picking up the mounting ears on the AMB transponder.

The hardware for any of these is common, so a parts car is one way to do it. There is an evolution of some hardware, particularly depending on what version of 3.1 you pick up, but nothing too bad--all the bits will fit. The key is if you have a 3.2R chassis plate you NEED a 3.2R lower pod plate and vice-versa.

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Old 10-12-2006, 04:17 AM   #21219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
I was glad to read this and want to give it a try.... I went back to a 12b on my carpet knife and was really not liking the feel at all, very twitchy not locked in at all. This was after going from the old protoform nissan gtp type shell ( love that shell, it just feels perfect). So good news to hear,I will give it a shot. But hey, would you still give the nod to the speed8? It's one I haven't tried yet. It just looks like it would be easy to drive I must say .

i have run both the speed 8 and the speed 12.the speed 12 doesnt feel as locked in at low speeds as the speed 8.both are fine ay high speed though.i prefer the speed 8 in every condition i have run in.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:40 AM   #21220
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Has any used the Zytec body and how does it feekl in comparison to the Speed 8?
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Old 10-12-2006, 07:40 AM   #21221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
over this past tuesday racing I was amazed by something that I never would have thought about. My 12L4 was really twitchy with the speed 12b. Ive been running a speed 8 for the longest time and it was quite a big change. At that point Paul was watching my car and noticed the rear was really low. So he raised it up a hole on the body posts, and it was like a night and day difference. I could drive the car into the corners and not worry about the car being all over the place. He said for mod he runs the rear of his body even higher. ive always cut the body at the marked lines so the thought never went through my head. If anyone has slight handling issues I would recommend looking at the rear body height and possibly raise it to calm the car down.
As much fun as it is to slam 1/12th scale bodies as low as possible, the how low can you go competition isn't always the best for traction. If you think about it, when you slam the back low, you reduce the angle of both the rear wing are and the angle of the front fenders. By slamming the back, you essentially take away downforce over the whole car, front and back.
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:55 AM   #21222
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The Zytec has more downforce than the Speed 8. Seems to have more drag in stock (slower) but it feels ok in stock. I think the Speed 8 has better balance though.
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Old 10-12-2006, 01:26 PM   #21223
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Guys i have been on this 1/12 forum for a some time now trying to decide which kit i should get but now corally came out with the new kit and i look sweet but no one on this forum have nothing on the past corally is this a good kit to go with.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:48 PM   #21224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unregistered
The Zytec has more downforce than the Speed 8. Seems to have more drag in stock (slower) but it feels ok in stock. I think the Speed 8 has better balance though.
Well actually I do agree partly.

The Zytec is more aggressive. Gives more front end grip.
But for overall grip and stability the Speed 8 is the better of the 2 IMHO.
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Old 10-12-2006, 04:58 PM   #21225
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Thanks for the info on the Zytec. I have a Speed 8, Speed 12B and the Zytec ... should have all track conditions covered
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