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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-09-2006, 06:09 PM   #21136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman
Hey Mike D,

Which side of the rings is the recommended side to put up against the diff balls? Is it the flat side like normal.

Thanks,
Steve
Steve,

It is best to run the face with the rounded edges against the hub and axle flange. The face with the sharper edge should be towards the diff ball. This will make the diff (sometimes) easier to build and say more consistent from run to run.

Mike
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:10 PM   #21137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D
Steve,

It is best to run the face with the rounded edges against the hub and axle flange. The face with the sharper edge should be towards the diff ball. This will make the diff (sometimes) easier to build and say more consistent from run to run.

Mike
MIke-coming to the HC this year? Its only a few weeks away!!

Ray
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:33 PM   #21138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
MIke-coming to the HC this year? Its only a few weeks away!!

Ray
Ray - Unfortunatly I won't be able to make it this year... I should see you at the Indoor Champs though.
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Old 10-10-2006, 07:39 AM   #21139
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OK 19-turn racers...

We've added a 19-turn class this year to get the faster guys out of Stock. Our layouts are typically about 48' by 100', moderately technical with, usually, one full-length straight.

Our choices are what was allowed at the IIC...Komodo Dragon, Checkpoint Money, Orion (non-V2), and Reedy Spec-19.

Recommenations? Anybody know what won the IIC in 1/12 19? I know Weylin Rose kicked some rear in 19 Foam Sedan and is a EA Motorsports "factory" driver, so looking at the EA products page I'm guessing that means a KD...

Scottrik
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:10 AM   #21140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
OK 19-turn racers...

We've added a 19-turn class this year to get the faster guys out of Stock. Our layouts are typically about 48' by 100', moderately technical with, usually, one full-length straight.

Our choices are what was allowed at the IIC...Komodo Dragon, Checkpoint Money, Orion (non-V2), and Reedy Spec-19.

Recommenations? Anybody know what won the IIC in 1/12 19? I know Weylin Rose kicked some rear in 19 Foam Sedan and is a EA Motorsports "factory" driver, so looking at the EA products page I'm guessing that means a KD...

Scottrik
KD's are my favorite 19t motor, but I havent tried a Money motor. Jim Herrmann's KD in 19 foam looked like a mod on the straight and Mo Dentons KD was no slouch either.
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:18 AM   #21141
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We pretty much run only 19t 12th scale, and the KD's are my motor of choice. That being said, the Checkpoint and the Orion motors are right up there... with proper rollout respectively.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
OK 19-turn racers...

We've added a 19-turn class this year to get the faster guys out of Stock. Our layouts are typically about 48' by 100', moderately technical with, usually, one full-length straight.

Our choices are what was allowed at the IIC...Komodo Dragon, Checkpoint Money, Orion (non-V2), and Reedy Spec-19.

Recommenations? Anybody know what won the IIC in 1/12 19? I know Weylin Rose kicked some rear in 19 Foam Sedan and is a EA Motorsports "factory" driver, so looking at the EA products page I'm guessing that means a KD...

Scottrik
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:10 AM   #21142
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Does anyone sell an old school Associated front end that has been milled down to run smaller tires. I know that lots of racers just cut the steering block down, shorten the kingpin and cut away material at the top of the bock to keep the rim from hitting. It's not that much work, but I'm just not all that fond of cutting away this much material and weakening the part. I'd like to buy a few sets that are milled off the bottom of the suspension block itself. Anyone know where I can find a few sets or am I gonna have to take the time to make them myself?

Thanks.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:15 AM   #21143
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Our local track has run 19 Turn 1/12 scale last year and we have started again this year.

I agree that the Komodo is very good, the Checkpoint money (with the right gear is also good) You should also include the Corally Black Spec 19 and the Atlas based motors.

The key to all of these is the gearing. Some have a very small sweet spot, some like the Komodo have a wide sweet spot.

As to the speed. On our track, 19 turn is only 2-4 laps under modified and 6-8 laps faster than stock. This is based on the layout.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:16 AM   #21144
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Go with the KD, I tried a checkpoint the past couple weeks and although its close the KD is faster.

Mark
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:29 AM   #21145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor City Hami
Does anyone sell an old school Associated front end that has been milled down to run smaller tires. I know that lots of racers just cut the steering block down, shorten the kingpin and cut away material at the top of the bock to keep the rim from hitting. It's not that much work, but I'm just not all that fond of cutting away this much material and weakening the part. I'd like to buy a few sets that are milled off the bottom of the suspension block itself. Anyone know where I can find a few sets or am I gonna have to take the time to make them myself?

Thanks.
Shaving the top of the old skool arms is not going to weaken them too much. Matter of fact, the place I have only hat them break is the bottom kingpin to the base of the arm part. People shave the steering blocks because then you only have to be accurate once, the steering blocks rarely if ever break.

If you find the old skool blocks modded anywhere, post a link. I'd buy them just because they would have to be more accurate than the ones that are spat out of AE's mold.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:44 AM   #21146
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OK--thanks for the input guys. KD it is.

Wonder how fast Eric can get one out to me...

Scottrik
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:17 AM   #21147
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someone needs to post a pic of it done to give those who want to know a better idea...is it a must ? I have a new rev4.5 on the way and from the looks of things I guess i need to do it...or is geared more for Mod than stock?
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:22 AM   #21148
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There is a guy here in Michigan who does the lower arms and the steering knuckles for me. We're trying to convince him to just buy a bunch and sell them. He may actually just mass produce the jig he uses and sell that so folks can just do it themselves.

-Rich


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If you find the old skool blocks modded anywhere, post a link. I'd buy them just because they would have to be more accurate than the ones that are spat out of AE's mold.
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:28 PM   #21149
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its really only needed whe you run the tires reeeally small.... not sure its a necessity for club racing.
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:37 PM   #21150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
its really only needed whe you run the tires reeeally small.... not sure its a necessity for club racing.
It's pretty necessary when I club race against Chuck Lonergan, Chris Mockerman, Walter Henderson, Chris Mazzola, Josh Cyrul, Rich Chang, etc. Throw in an occasional Eli, Andy Who and Ron Ferguson and that's a fast crowd. I like to run my front tires between 1.8" and 1.7" with 4.0mm front ride height.
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