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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-06-2006, 08:37 PM   #21106
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I have 2 pairs of the Niftech old skool front arms with the brass bushing inserts. Brand new. Make me an offer.

I also have their rocket ring diff/axle. Have been running the same one for 5 years now. Looove it! But, that isn't for sale. LOL!

-Rich
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Old 10-06-2006, 09:30 PM   #21107
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Two cars, two Niftech axles...make mine Rocket Rings as well. Axles are the only things I have left from my old cars, building up two new cars to include these "used" axles.

And as mentioned, their bronze pivot balls are the poo too. And their traction compound.

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Old 10-07-2006, 03:44 AM   #21108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bs6ef
I'll tell you later on tonight as we have 6 RC12L4 which have been converted to the damper tubes that will be running tonight for the first time. I'll keep you posted.
How'd it go then?
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Old 10-07-2006, 09:28 AM   #21109
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Has anyone had a chance to try the new Epic Roar X in their 12th scale. I noticed one of the motor guys said it would be good for 1/12th scale. Just trying to figure if I should try it or keep running CO27's

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2006, 01:59 PM   #21110
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Im going to order a corally sp12x soon and was wondering if anyone could help with the corally tyre ratings. I know where purple and pink fall in line but maybe someone could list a soft to hard list of where their gold and silver compounds come into play.

thanks
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Old 10-07-2006, 02:11 PM   #21111
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About the Corally tires,

Partnr.(tires only)-colour - shore rating.

Front Tires
1418-Goldstar - 30
1412-Green - 32
1419-Silverstar - 34
1416-Gold - 36
1417-Silver - 38

Rear Tires
1406-Gold - 28 (slightly softer than green)
1402-Green - 28
1405-Orange (Outdoor Compound)- 28
1407-Silver - 30 (slightly softer than pink)
1408-Pink - 30

Standard setup: Silver front, Gold rear.
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Old 10-07-2006, 05:37 PM   #21112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT_TC3Racer
Has anyone had a chance to try the new Epic Roar X in their 12th scale. I noticed one of the motor guys said it would be good for 1/12th scale. Just trying to figure if I should try it or keep running CO27's

Thanks
If you are referring to the X-Stock (black can) then I would highly recommend it. It has torque and RPM. Very fast motors!
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Old 10-07-2006, 05:52 PM   #21113
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Question guys-
I've never ran a 1/12 on carpet but planning on it for a big local race coming up. With the Checkpoint $$ motor w/Infinity brushes & gold springs AND 1.75" tyres, what rollout is good to start with? The track is small-n-tight...
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Old 10-07-2006, 10:32 PM   #21114
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thanks a lot.

For mod I liked double pink pinks from jaco, so the closest would be pink and the silver stars.

now the only thing i need is the corally tire truer adaptor

One more question, how low can tires be run down to with the pod plates on the sp12x? For mod I like to run around 47mm, so Im assuming they can run at least that low, but for stock I run like 43mm. Is it possible to go that low?
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Old 10-07-2006, 10:57 PM   #21115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
thanks a lot.

For mod I liked double pink pinks from jaco, so the closest would be pink and the silver stars.

now the only thing i need is the corally tire truer adaptor

One more question, how low can tires be run down to with the pod plates on the sp12x? For mod I like to run around 47mm, so Im assuming they can run at least that low, but for stock I run like 43mm. Is it possible to go that low?
i have a corally arbor for 1/12 if you need one.
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Old 10-07-2006, 11:25 PM   #21116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
also-just FYI-these new D-style diff rings are the best I and others (chicky) have ever used. No sanding to eliminate runout. VERY flat rings from IRS.


We developed a few design interations and worked with the shop to create a manufacturable design. Standard manufacturing flatness tolerances are less then ideal. I think the final part speaks for itself.
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:23 AM   #21117
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I've got a new JR Z3650 in my CRC 3.2r and it's making a lot of noise when I turn the power on. Any idea if something is wrong with it, or is it normal?
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:26 AM   #21118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Question guys-
I've never ran a 1/12 on carpet but planning on it for a big local race coming up. With the Checkpoint $$ motor w/Infinity brushes & gold springs AND 1.75" tyres, what rollout is good to start with? The track is small-n-tight...
ANY idea guys??
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:25 AM   #21119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
One more question, how low can tires be run down to with the pod plates on the sp12x? For mod I like to run around 47mm, so Im assuming they can run at least that low, but for stock I run like 43mm. Is it possible to go that low?
I don't own the 12X, I ran a 12M.
But when I saw the prototype early this year, I saw the axle heights weren't changed. And for as far as I know they didn't changed the podplates in the production version.
With the 12M I drove with the stock spur gear (78t, 48 pitch) which has a diameter of 42.3mm, so I used the tires untill they hitted the 43mm in diameter.
With that diameter I could get the right ride height, hopes this helps.
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:34 AM   #21120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D
We developed a few design interations and worked with the shop to create a manufacturable design. Standard manufacturing flatness tolerances are less then ideal. I think the final part speaks for itself.

Hey Mike D,

Which side of the rings is the recommended side to put up against the diff balls? Is it the flat side like normal.

Thanks,
Steve
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