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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-05-2006, 12:06 AM   #21061
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Scottrik,
I guess you missed my second post?

I saw his gearing before my post, my quick roll out calculation was off but not by much.
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:09 AM   #21062
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Default need help on 1/12 gear ratio for brushless system

I just got a GTB 5.5R setup for my 1/12, but am wondering what kind of gear ratio i should set for the brushless system.
i am currently using 100t 65p gear, so maybe 25t pinion?
thanks
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:19 AM   #21063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
96/32 is a fair bit different than the 100/35 Tony was describing. Or did you miss that on your way to making a point? You describe a 46.5mm roll-out. If you were to use his gear combo with your tires it would be right about 49mm. And that's assuming he's running tires in that ballpark.

That said, I'm surprised you're coming off at the temperature you're reporting, but you're the guy there. I'd wager your track is a good bit more "flowing" than our tracks tend to be, because I guarantee you'd be a fair bit hotter if you ran on our track.

I run closer to a 44mm roll-out and get temps about 30-40 degrees hotter than what you're experiencing.

Scottrik
i am sure track size and how flowing it is has alot to do with it.in 19 turn on a pretty flowing track i run a 49.5mm rollout and am hard to beat.i see exactly why you run the gearing you do with a small track.i had to drop to 46 mm for a large carpet track and even lower for a tighter one.gearing is fun huh.
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:23 AM   #21064
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Since we are talking about rollouts. What should I run on a 9 double?
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Old 10-05-2006, 06:21 AM   #21065
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If anyone is still using or has used the Novak GT7 in stock 1/12th racing...

What profile is recommended?
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:46 AM   #21066
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Default help my noob

Someone explain roll out to my brother here. And help with his 65 pitch spur?? I'm not good with explinations.

need help on 1/12 gear ratio
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:02 AM   #21067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
Someone explain roll out to my brother here. And help with his 65 pitch spur?? I'm not good with explinations.

need help on 1/12 gear ratio
Page 700, about mid-way down.

As far as his 65 pitch gears, I'm guessing he experienced a case of fumble-fingers. Wish I could say it never happens to me.

Scottrik
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:55 AM   #21068
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Can someone explain if there is a way to get the slop out of an associated front end?

Thanks
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:08 AM   #21069
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If the parts are all new, then you'll just have to use shims. Also, using the CRC delrin upper arms helps along with using brass pivot balls (Niftech and others sell them). The brass pivot balls make a big difference, in my opinion. But, I run a SM rev.3 with the old skool front end so I don't mess with the dynamic front end much anymore.

-Rich


Quote:
Originally Posted by oppie33
Can someone explain if there is a way to get the slop out of
an associated front end?

Thanks
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Old 10-05-2006, 12:36 PM   #21070
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I was able to remove a lot of play be replacing my ball cups with these Dubro swivel ball links 256/4-40:

I also replaced the stock turnbuckles with shorter titanium turnbuckles from Lundsford Racing.

The shorter turnbuckles are needed because the Dubro swivel ball links are longer in length. (Sorry, I don't remember the size I ordered)
Another benefit is maintainence. If you need to remove one, you don't have to mess with poping the stock ball cups off. You simply grab a hex driver and off they come.
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1/12 forum-dubq1767.jpg   1/12 forum-lnsc1002.jpg  

Last edited by James35; 10-05-2006 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 10-05-2006, 12:38 PM   #21071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
I was able to remove a lot of play be replacing my ball cups with these Dubro swivel ball links 256/4-40:
Can ya post a pic of your car?
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:45 PM   #21072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Can ya post a pic of your car?
Yes, here is the front end. Also note that a good servo helps to remove some play as well.
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:54 PM   #21073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
Yes, here is the front end. Also note that a good servo helps to remove some play as well.
THANKS! That looks to be a pretty stout set-up. Does the eyelets have free movement on the balls?
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Old 10-05-2006, 03:32 PM   #21074
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Yes. The bolt and nut holds the ball securely from moving. The dubro plastic eyelet moves nicely on the ball. It has a lot loss play than the stock ball cups. For this reason, I suggest buying extra dubro swivel ball links. Most are perfect, but some come from the factory and the movement is too tight. I tried heating up the ball, and it works perfectly until the heat goes away, then they go back to being too snug. So I found it's easiest just to buy extra and pick out the 4 best ones.

NOTE: The holes in the CRC Delrin steering blocks are a little too big for the Dubro swivel link with the 256 bolt


Although the 4-40 bolt from the all 4-40/4-40 version would probably fit the hole better, I thought that it was a tad overkill and also heavier, so I bought the 256/4-40 version. Since the bolt and screw can be tightened down nicely, the small 256 bolt doesn't matter much as long as you don't hit anything. If you hit something, there is a chance that it may change position slightly and cause a toe-in or toe-out. So, I made my own custom spacer to make the 256 bolt fit perfectly in the steering block holes. Here is a tutorial on how to do it:

1. Buy some 1/8" brass tubing
2. Use a thin dremmel cut-off disc to make a cut lengthwise down the tube (about an inch or less is all you'll need.)
3. Then cut off some pieces that you'll need for the spacers. These are now in the shape of a "C".
4. With a needle nose, bend the "C" into an "O" around the 256 bolt.
5. Place the 256 bolt into the dremmel.
6. Spin the dremmel up, and use some sandpaper to spin the brass spacer to reduce the wall thickness of the brass spacer until it fits perfectly in the steering block hole.

Making the custom brass spacer is a lot of work, but I'm a perfectionist. I like it done right. No slop. The servo saver does not need anything special. The 256 bolt fits inside a stock servo saver perfectly.

Last edited by James35; 10-05-2006 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:14 PM   #21075
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Thanks for the tips but I think I've something similar but a simpler way of tightening up my front-end and I use these... now if only we could find them in stock
Odpurple would tell ya, the front-end on my cars are tight but loose

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=233&id=2097...the open-ended ones
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Last edited by JayBee; 10-05-2006 at 04:26 PM.
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