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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-03-2006, 01:01 PM   #21001
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Last edited by dr_hfuhuhurr; 10-03-2006 at 01:26 PM. Reason: ignorance is not a virtue
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:15 PM   #21002
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A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO

Last edited by JayBee; 10-03-2006 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Sarcasm is a cheap attempt at being funny
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:20 PM   #21003
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Without the sarcasm, he is right.... please post for sale items in the for sale forums only. Please edit your for sale post.


Thanks,
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:20 PM   #21004
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Thanks...
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Old 10-03-2006, 02:06 PM   #21005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara
Just couple question about the 12L4, indoor carpet and stock motor

(1) Running stock (monster or Co27) w/96 spur....what is a good ball park rollout?
(2) Tires diameter F or R...? (that will be reference to the above roll out..)
(3) Tires...I know it is very much standard front PURPLE rear GREY...but I am wonder, is PARMA front purple = Jaco front purple? Vise Versa...Parma rear grey = Jaco rear grey...? or what shores should I use for JACO.. (I already know about PARMA)

Thanks in advance.....
Howard, I got some tires for you to try out. I will even put a fresh cut on them for you.
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Old 10-03-2006, 04:28 PM   #21006
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Scottrick - Great purchas on the Unity Tweak/set up. I've owned mine for 15+ years and it is still dead on. When I started racing again a few years back, I could never get to it, as it was being used. Now there are 2 new ones as well, and since the new ones have a better scale for degree's that what get used!

To the rest, I saw the post for the 13.5 being faster than stock motors. Our series is based on 19 turns, and we have 1 or 2 that have asked about the 4300 brushless. As I have one, I really think it is faster than a brushed 19 turn, but whats anyone's thought???
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Old 10-03-2006, 05:04 PM   #21007
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hey od thanks for the pics looks great how do you think it would do now a days.
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Old 10-03-2006, 05:05 PM   #21008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedMerchant
HI Guys,

Hope all you 12th scalers are doing great.

Just figured I would post some info here since it seems to be the most active 12th forum on the net.

At the Vegas race, I talked to Anderson from JR/Horizon about the 3550 servo that was discontinued. I explained to him that we thought it was a really good product for 12th stock, and were unhappy to see it go away.

Long story short.

Anderson e-mailed me this morning that they(Horizon) have decided to "reactivate" the 3550 servo.

Take care.-Bruce
Ok, Mr. Carbone!

I just went to the Horizon website and they still list the 3550 servo although it does say back ordered. I went ahead and placed an order for six (6) servos to let Horizon know that there is still interest in this servo. I think OD did the same. Now, since you opened this can of worms, you had better bug Anderson a couple of times a month about following through with the reintroduction of the JR 3550 servo.

Seriously, thanks for all of your support, Bruce. We racers really appreciate all that you do for the sport/hobby.
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Old 10-03-2006, 05:06 PM   #21009
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The 3650 has been on backorder for months, did they stop production of both?
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Old 10-03-2006, 09:12 PM   #21010
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the 3650 is rated at .09 sec @6.0v. but can you use it without a seperate reciever pack. will it be slower running off the 4 cell pack? reason i ask is on mike dumas speedmerchant from vegas he does not run a reciever pack with this servo. thanx
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Old 10-04-2006, 09:43 AM   #21011
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what car would be best for stock indoor cefx,slapmaster,speedmerchant,crc,AE I'm having a hARDtime picking
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:40 AM   #21012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
So I did a little research on the cars, and have pretty much changed my mind to the Speedmerchant Rev 4.5. I like the lower CG rear pod, and the narrower chassis on the 4.5 over the 3.2R. Is Speedmerchant the only place to get the car or is it carried elsewhere for lower prices?
I'm looking into a 4.5 too. Is it easier to just order the car and parts from Speedmerchant direct or are there better sources? Also, with the high voltage of the 4200 cells, is a Rx pack still an absolute necessity? Also, what bodies are the most common? I've never run 1/12 scale and hate being the noob asking dumb ass questions, but...
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:49 AM   #21013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
what car would be best for stock indoor cefx,slapmaster,speedmerchant,crc,AE I'm having a hARDtime picking
AdrianM said it best: Find a car you think looks cool and run it.

They all are fine. The Speedmerchant is the frontrunner for link cars. The t-bar cars are all good, 12L4, Hyperform, BMI, etc.
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:57 AM   #21014
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CRC is about to revolutionize 12th scale building when it releases its new front end. if you search through rc.50.com youll find pics. No more black magic (my specialty-ho hum) to get a perfect front end everytime.

some highlights include super fast and easy camber adjust with pillow ball, fast caster adjustments and no more shims on the kingpins. YOu adjust spring tension (preload or no preload) with a hex driver. Very hard to build it wrong (ie. binding). Ride height adjustment will be enough to run a rim with felt on it to a full size uncut tire. Steering arm (spindle) is now outside of the rim.

Also-with the flip of a part-you can go from unheard of caster to the caster we run now as well as choosing between 0,5 and 10 deg mounts.
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Old 10-04-2006, 10:59 AM   #21015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I'm looking into a 4.5 too. Is it easier to just order the car and parts from Speedmerchant direct or are there better sources? Also, with the high voltage of the 4200 cells, is a Rx pack still an absolute necessity? Also, what bodies are the most common? I've never run 1/12 scale and hate being the noob asking dumb ass questions, but...
If your local shop doesn't carry Speed Merchant, perhaps ordering direct is the best way. This way you can also talk to Bruce about set-up and taylor things to your local track(s). If your running 19t or stock, I don't think that the Rx pack is necessary. I was able to run the Spektrum with their cap and a QC2 (low bec voltage) and get away with it. For mod, people still seem to run the Rx pack.
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