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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-01-2006, 02:38 PM   #20941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truggy1
Cool thanks for the info man!
No problem, just make sure you get the right one for your servo manufactuer.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:00 PM   #20942
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Originally Posted by Truggy1
Cool so where do I get my hands on one?
Speedtech?
Trackside has them.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:19 PM   #20943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Trackside has them.
Outstanding!!! I'll be there on Tuesday...also going to bug a bunch od the 12th scalers...
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:27 PM   #20944
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I wont be there Tuesday. I am going to be at His-N-Hers on Thursday getting ready for the Hurricane race this weekend.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:36 PM   #20945
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Default Unity tweak/alignment station

SCORE!!

I've been hankerin' for a Unity Tweak/Alignment Station Unity Tools for about a year now but have been unwilling to plunk down $145 when I have a perfectly good $25 alignment jig and use scales to set tweak. As much as anything, I'm a gadget JUNKIE...I wanted to see one and try it. Who knows, I might like it better than what I'm doing now.

I knew if I waited long enough (quite a while, these aren't exactly common) someone would be selling off all his stuff and make a deal available on one. One came up on RC Tech last spring, but guess who missed out.

Spotted one on e-Bay last week and made a bid to get it up over it's reserve, then carefully stalked it, watching and waiting, until I pounced in the last minute of bidding.

I've got one on it's way!! I'm happier about that than the idea that racing season is just around the corner. Well...ALMOST happier. How the heck sad is that. Gadget Junkies understand though...

Scottrik
e-Bay Assasin

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:10 PM   #20946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
C2 try about 1.90" and KD-try 1.75" and go up or down to find the sweet spot on both. PLay-play with brush width (leading and trailing edges) to drop amp draw and hence motor temp. I hear the KD can run hot in a 12th and not fall off too badly.

Ray

Ray, your rollout was spot on, I had the fastest car in qualifying, running about half a sec a lap faster, but in the main, they picked it up and I ended up 2nd ,all in all, the 12x is awesome out of the box, I have a few things im going to try and Ill keep you guys posted.

thanks again
Mark
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Old 10-01-2006, 05:51 PM   #20947
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Scottrik,

You will love that system. I picked one up last year off of the for-sale boards. Keep it hidden, tho, because everyone will want to use it.

-Rich

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
SCORE!! I've been hankerin' for a Unity Tweak/Alignment Station
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:06 PM   #20948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichChang
Scottrik,

You will love that system. I picked one up last year off of the for-sale boards. Keep it hidden, tho, because everyone will want to use it.

-Rich
I'm sure. They already all use my scales all the time...I have to set them up on their own table so I've got room to work on MY stuff in my pit...then show (and re-show and re-show) everybody how to use them. If you're not careful and leave a trail of breadcrumbs it's VERY easy to get completely lost on the scales chasing stuff around and around the car.

So it's all as accurate for you as Unity makes it sound? I'm even MORE excited now!!

Scottrik
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:18 PM   #20949
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Yep! I find it to be very accurate and extremely helpful - especially for setting toe. I also use it for my TC (it is also meant also do 1/8th scale cars).

The only "bummer" thing is that the system is very wide since it is meant to also work with 1/8th scale cars. So, whenever I want to use it, I have to rotate my pit board 90 degrees for the system to fit on it. That's not that big a thing except my pit space usually gets a bit messy so I have to shove things to the side to get the board to fit sideways.

-Rich


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
So it's all as accurate for you as Unity makes it sound? I'm even MORE excited now!!
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:18 PM   #20950
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OK , first time running 12 scale and I have the L4 ( BMI chassis ).
I just aquired this speed controller and I want to use in on my 12 scale RC12L4 car for stock motor racing, 8 minute races with 4 cell ( 3300) batteries.

A couple of people have said that this ESC will draw more power from the batteries and not run for 8 minutes....

What is the best way to install an on-off switch on this speed controller?

THX
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Old 10-01-2006, 07:35 PM   #20951
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Default ...........

Quote:
Originally Posted by kartermdb
Ray, your rollout was spot on, I had the fastest car in qualifying, running about half a sec a lap faster, but in the main, they picked it up and I ended up 2nd ,all in all, the 12x is awesome out of the box, I have a few things im going to try and Ill keep you guys posted.

thanks again
Mark


He speaks the truth...........12X looks real good out of the box
If you didn't show such good sportsmanship TWICE or was that THREE times you would have walked away with 1st place hands down. Anyway you did the right thing GOOD SHOW.................
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:15 PM   #20952
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fyi--

I'm selling my back-up LRP QC2 from last season. Pre-wired with 16ga for 1/12 use, ran it 1 race day (two heats and main) to confirm it worked, then it's been in the box since then. If you're interested:

LRP QC2 esc--nearly new

We return you now to our regularly scheduled bench-racing.

Scottrik
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:29 PM   #20953
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Which speedo?

-Rich

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
OK , first time running 12 scale and I have the L4 ( BMI chassis ).
I just aquired this speed controller and I want to use in on my 12 scale RC12L4 car for stock motor racing, 8 minute races with 4 cell ( 3300) batteries.

A couple of people have said that this ESC will draw more power from the batteries and not run for 8 minutes....

What is the best way to install an on-off switch on this speed controller?

THX
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:12 PM   #20954
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Default hudy tire truer

i thought i got lucky and snagged my buddies hudy truer

picked up an arbor

seems when i go to make a pass the blade doesnt come close to touching the wheel

runs out of threads

is there a longer block for the cutting bit for 12th scale

going nuts trying to figure out what the deal is
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:32 PM   #20955
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Default .

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh

i just noticed on the block where the blade is mounted

it goes from 80 to 70 down to 60

i'm going to guess those are MM measurements


where can i find another block for the blade that goes in for a deeper cut

no idea what its called
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