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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-29-2006, 08:33 PM   #20896
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Default .

that pinion seems kinda high

try to line it up with a pinion on it

i was told to start with a 25 tooth pinion with a 100t spur

i could be wrong but that pinion sounds like a monster

unless you will be at a track with a huge straight away in my eye's
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:39 PM   #20897
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You will need to take a dremel or file and bevel the edge of the t-bar to fit that big of pinion gear.

Hope that helps
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:49 PM   #20898
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Default 12L4 Motor Install

In the AE instructions it tells me 35 pinion with the 100 spur for A stock motor starting point. They guys at the local track are also saying that is what they use. It is an avrage size track. I may be getting misinfomred by the guys at the track. I have not cut the tires at this time nor will I until I get my feet wet racing again and get a feel for racing again. If I need to go to a 25 that is fine but why does the AE instructions tell us to start with that if it is hard to fit? Please keep your help coming. THANKS!!!!!!!
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:30 PM   #20899
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if you have a hard time fitting a pinion i would run a smaller spur.the only time i run a 100 spur is in mod to allow for a bigger pinion for more efficient gear mesh.on my 19 turn motors i runn an 88/29.which stock motor are you running?
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:37 PM   #20900
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Thanks for your help Brian!
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:43 PM   #20901
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this is how we do 12th scale in victoria bc canada



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Old 09-29-2006, 09:46 PM   #20902
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man thats a tight track.looks like a fun technical layout.
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:51 PM   #20903
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this is where we play.gotta love florida.we run outdoors all year round
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:52 PM   #20904
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tight track yes it is . the irocc club gets 30 guys every week running 12th scale stock every sat night so its also very close racing.
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:05 PM   #20905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
Can anyone tell me how the IRS front end compares to the std associated front end? Do any of the IRS upper arm mounts positions yeild the same geometry as the associated?

Mark
I think you can make it have the same geometry... but I know that they get sloppy pretty fast... like really sloppy. So I've stayed away from them.

-Korey
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:09 PM   #20906
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Maybe you could put a 180 in that layout...



Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_morrison_
this is how we do 12th scale in victoria bc canada



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Old 09-29-2006, 10:22 PM   #20907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Maybe you could put a 180 in that layout...
Ya think?
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:33 PM   #20908
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thanks to all the people who replied, regarding the front axle 12L4.
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:16 PM   #20909
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Default Thread sizes/pitches

OK--who knows what the screw size/pitch of the Lunsford/CRC Ti axles is? I'm talking about the left hand threads that screw into the steering block. The axle nuts are 4-40.

For that matter, what is the thread pitch of the Lunsford Punisher tie rods? I know they are 3mm, but "by what"?

Along those lines, what ARE all the common screw size/pitches in our 1/12 beasties? The ones I know (or THINK I know) for the CK are:

2-56 secure/tighten the pivot assembly

4-40 are VERY common. Most of the screws and ball-studs are 4-40

5-40 for the grub screws that secure the upper arm pivot pin in the new-style mounts

6-32 right and left hand thread for the camber adjusting turnbuckles

8-32 for the diff adjusting nut and the screws that attach the lower arms

3mm X ?? left and right hand for the Lunsford Punisher tie rods

The reason for my curiosity is I'm starting to build up my two 3.2R's for the upcoming race season and THIS time I'd like to pre-tap all the holes. I'm guessing things might sit flatter if the material from cutting the threads is removed with a tap rather than displaced by running the screws into blank holes. I also think I've got a better shot of getting them screwed in straight. I imagine it should give a better "feel" for torque and allow more fine adjustment if you're not having to reef on things to get them turned in. Easier on the screws too.

Any opinons? OD?

I've done some checking...I can find ALL the taps listed above with the exception of a left hand 3mm (but I CAN find a left hand 3mm die, so go figure...). In fact I already have all the right hand taps.

Thanks,

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 09-29-2006 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:32 PM   #20910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
OK--who knows what the screw size/pitch of the Lunsford/CRC Ti axles is? I'm talking about the left hand threads that screw into the steering block. The axle nuts are 4-40.

For that matter, what is the thread pitch of the Lunsford Punisher tie rods? I know they are 3mm, but "by what"?

Along those lines, what ARE all the common screw size/pitches in our 1/12 beasties? The ones I know (or THINK I know) for the CK are:

2-26 secure/tighten the pivot assembly

4-40 are VERY common. Most of the screws and ball-studs are 4-40

6-32 right and left hand thread for the camber adjusting turnbuckles

8-32 for the diff adjusting nut and the screws that attach the lower arms

3mm X ?? left and right hand for the Lunsford Punisher tie rods

The reason for my curiosity is I'm starting to build up my two 3.2R's for the upcoming race season and THIS time I'd like to pre-tap all the holes. I'm guessing things might sit flatter if the material from cutting the threads is removed with a tap rather than displaced by running the screws into blank holes. I also think I've got a better shot of getting them screwed in straight. I imagine it should give a better "feel" for torque and allow more fine adjustment if you're not having to reef on things to get them turned in. Easier on the screws too.

Any opinons? OD?

I've done some checking...I can find ALL the taps listed above with the exception of a left hand 3mm (but I CAN find a left hand 3mm die, so go figure...). In fact I already have all the right hand taps.

Thanks,

Scottrik
Sorry I can't tell you the pitch on the steering turnbuckles. I think you typo'd but the pivot socket screws are 2/56.

One thing to consider, most of the holes are made a bit large so the screws will go in without threading them. If you thread the holes on the steering ball cups they may not be tight enough to hold adjustment or might strip more easily (don't know for sure because I've never tried it). Same goes for the camber turnbuckles. If you do choose to tap these items out I would consider only partially threading them, that will help start them straight and still keep them tight.

On the 8/32s that hold the front suspension on you can tighten down the screws so threading the arms works well, I always do this. It makes it easier to screw and unscrew them for ride height changes, and I've never had one come loose.
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