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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-29-2006, 02:08 PM   #20881
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Can anyone tell me how the IRS front end compares to the std associated front end? Do any of the IRS upper arm mounts positions yeild the same geometry as the associated?

Mark
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Old 09-29-2006, 02:46 PM   #20882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-BUSS
Hey Folks

Can anyone tell me which Hitec servo(s) are suitable for use in the AE RC12L4 and where to start at for tire selection on carpet.

Thanks
to actually answer your question, the Hitec 225 MG is the one you are looking for. the 81 is too weak for RC cars IMO. Hitecs are not the best servos for 1/12th but they are way cheaper than all the others, which would be the only reason to consider one.

For stock start with Grey rears and Purple fronts, and for mod try Pink rears and Purple or Magenta fronts.
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:47 PM   #20883
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Thanks for all the info guys!!
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:57 PM   #20884
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I am using the futaba 9602 and I liked it...

Last edited by Fwck; 09-29-2006 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 09-29-2006, 04:14 PM   #20885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
Same here. Trinity wheel washers mean never having a wheel out of true, or one snap off from the centre. Best tuning aid out there for keeping tyres concentric to the axle!
Do you have a link to them?
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Old 09-29-2006, 06:36 PM   #20886
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You would be surprised how I need to be reminded that I have PM. I need a big stick to hit me in the head to grab my attention. Maybe the moderators could have us sellect some kind of blinking option to allert us.

Mark, I don't have a real answer for you, but you could check out their website. I would imagine that the lower outside hole is the same as Asc.

bb
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Old 09-29-2006, 06:42 PM   #20887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-BUSS
Hey Folks

Can anyone tell me which Hitec servo(s) are suitable for use in the AE RC12L4 and where to start at for tire selection on carpet.

Thanks
NOOOOO, I'm sure others have said this but I HAVE to BEG you not to get a Hitec servo. The only time a Hitec should be used is when you really don't care about centering the servo.

A drunk gerbil would be able to find center more often than a Hitec servo.

Hitec servos are garbage...
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:19 PM   #20888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
NOOOOO, I'm sure others have said this but I HAVE to BEG you not to get a Hitec servo. The only time a Hitec should be used is when you really don't care about centering the servo.

A drunk gerbil would be able to find center more often than a Hitec servo.

Hitec servos are garbage...

The hitech servo in my 12th has worked fine... but then it again it's sorta like cheap, knock-off brand guitars (like epiphone)-mostly junk but maybe one in a hundred or so is actually real good., maybe if you get one made on a tuesday as oppossed to on a friday when someone is drunk .
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:19 PM   #20889
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Default i need help

question guys

i just bought a 12L4 and i wanted to replace the front axle. i don't like using the e-clip to take out the front tires. any suggestion on what to use on that, i want something you can put a nut.
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:21 PM   #20890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony q
question guys

i just bought a 12L4 and i wanted to replace the front axle. i don't like using the e-clip to take out the front tires. any suggestion on what to use on that, i want something you can put a nut.

PSE, good axles no clips.
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:37 PM   #20891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony q
question guys

i just bought a 12L4 and i wanted to replace the front axle. i don't like using the e-clip to take out the front tires. any suggestion on what to use on that, i want something you can put a nut.
I'd recommend the CRC titanium threaded axles. Heres the link http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4115
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:53 PM   #20892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seano
I'd recommend the CRC titanium threaded axles. Heres the link http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4115
...OR pick up the exact same axles (guess who makes 'em for CRC) directly from Lunsford Lunsford Ti axles for $3 less.

Bettery yet, Lunsford offers a complete Ti kit for the front end. $36.70 gets you their Ti axles, Punnisher Ti tie rods, Ti 6-32 camber turnbuckles and Ti kingpins. See it at Lunsford 1/12 front end kit

PLUS they're super-nice people to deal with. I figure CRC gets enough of my dough ('nuther $80 today...) so I like to spread it around a bit.

Scottrik
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Old 09-29-2006, 07:57 PM   #20893
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and if you order directly from Lunsford, grab a 4 pack of the 8-32 flat head screws for the front end. Get rid of those annoying phillips head screws.
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:01 PM   #20894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
and if you order directly from Lunsford, grab a 4 pack of the 8-32 flat head screws for the front end. Get rid of those annoying phillips head screws.
Oh yeah...that too. You want the 1/2" long ones.

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Old 09-29-2006, 08:28 PM   #20895
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Default 12L4 MOTOR INSTALL

I just bought a new 12L4 and I was going to install the motor and I can not get it to fit correct. I can get in the pod area but when I tighten or try to tighten it down I can not get it to set correct. I am using a CO2 motor and I have no idea what I am doing wrong. It looks to me that the holes in the plate do not line up with the motor and the motor is hitting the T-Plate. I am using a 64 pitch 35 tooth with the stock spur gear. Is the motor can to big? I have been out of the hobby for over 3 years and I never had this problem with my last 12th scale. Did something change in the past 3 years? Can anyone give me ideas on what to do. Thanks!
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