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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-29-2006, 10:10 AM   #20866
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Hey Guys,
One thing I have found with the Slapmaster Thrust is they seem to be more picky about having the nut on VERY straight. If you use a metal one - as Brian suggests in the instructions - this is not a problem. If you use a plastic one and it is just slightly crooked - as they often are - the diff will not feel near as smooth.
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:30 AM   #20867
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i have a Associated 12L4 and durring the day the car is awsome but whe the sun goes down the car gets really loose to the level of when i turn the wheel just a little the car spins out. the car is basically stock but i did put the CRC lowerd pods on. my set up is the green spring on the center shock, white stuff on the dampiner plate, .63 T-plate, 10 deg. blocks in the front with th carbon fiber bace between them, the reactive caster set in the middle meaning a white shim on either side and .020 springs in the front i'm running 4mm ride hieght and Jaco double raps purbles in the front and double pinks in the rear the front is cut to 1.70 and rear at 1.80. what would be a good change to make to get the car not to spin out.
thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:35 AM   #20868
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Hi everyone i am just getting back into 1/12 and i am going 2 b geting a used rev 3

just wondering about anyones opinion of this car on carpet or setup advice

tire compund and which grease or fluid to use in the damping tubes

iv never had a car with them

thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:36 AM   #20869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle "hitawall"
i have a Associated 12L4 and durring the day the car is awsome but whe the sun goes down the car gets really loose to the level of when i turn the wheel just a little the car spins out. the car is basically stock but i did put the CRC lowerd pods on. my set up is the green spring on the center shock, white stuff on the dampiner plate, .63 T-plate, 10 deg. blocks in the front with th carbon fiber bace between them, the reactive caster set in the middle meaning a white shim on either side and .020 springs in the front i'm running 4mm ride hieght and Jaco double raps purbles in the front and double pinks in the rear the front is cut to 1.70 and rear at 1.80. what would be a good change to make to get the car not to spin out.
thanks
kyle
When the sun goes down, move your batteries forward position and nothing else. If they are already forward-then try pinks in the rear (no dbl wrap).
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:26 AM   #20870
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Slapmaster6000 ygpm
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:32 AM   #20871
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I never understood why people post "YGPM" (you've got private message)? Does that really need to be posted publicly? When you arrive to the forum, the forum software will let you know that YGPM, and many times in the form of a pop up window. It's usually very hard to miss.
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Old 09-29-2006, 11:56 AM   #20872
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I have a CRC 6 Pack converted 12L3. I do have the large CRC Diff and hubs. The L3 front end. I have no idea what caster is on the car. The suspension moves up and down silky smooth. Took a few hours to get it that way. I wanna run 19T and mod. Can someone please help me with a set-up for carpet. The carpet is from the same batch as the snowbirds track in 06. Tires included. I was told to start with 45mm front Purple and 47mm rears grey or white. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:33 PM   #20873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James35
I never understood why people post "YGPM" (you've got private message)? Does that really need to be posted publicly? When you arrive to the forum, the forum software will let you know that YGPM, and many times in the form of a pop up window. It's usually very hard to miss.
i agree... but some have that feature disabled, i think. i saw that it is selectable, either on or off.
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Old 09-29-2006, 12:56 PM   #20874
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Default RC12L4

Hey Folks

Can anyone tell me which Hitec servo(s) are suitable for use in the AE RC12L4 and where to start at for tire selection on carpet.

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:00 PM   #20875
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Umm, not to be a smart ass, but NONE, IMHO, they do not center well. I would go with a JR,Airtronics,KO or Futuba.



Quote:
Originally Posted by E-BUSS
Hey Folks

Can anyone tell me which Hitec servo(s) are suitable for use in the AE RC12L4 and where to start at for tire selection on carpet.

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:23 PM   #20876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-BUSS
Hey Folks
Can anyone tell me which Hitec servo(s) are suitable for use in the AE RC12L4 and where to start at for tire selection on carpet.
Thanks
The HS-81MG (metal gear) is the proper one for 1/12. Light and cheap. However I would not recommend it. I've used 3 of them in 1/12th scale before, and although they do have metal gears, they do not have bearings. I didn't think about that when I bought mine initially. I never had a problem with mine centering, the problem was over time, they developed slop. The servo saver would move alot due to the excess play. I "think" this was due to the bushings or plastic bushings used to hold all of the metal gears. It seemed to get worse and worse.

I replaced all mine with the Airtronics 94145Z servo and have been happy ever since. Metal gears and ball bearings makes for consistency, and no slop.
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:25 PM   #20877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Umm, not to be a smart ass, but NONE, IMHO, they do not center well. I would go with a JR,Airtronics,KO or Futuba.
Same non-smart-ass reply here. Most reliable I have ever used is Futaba 9602 (Euro designation, may be different in US) which is an analogue servo, built in lugs to bolt directly to the chassis in laydown mode.

Not a fan of HiTec due to centreing and gearbox problems, Sanwa (Airtronics?) went off on me after a year (centering and slack in the gearbox) but I've never used KO in 12th - perfect in TC and Off-Road however, in my cars.

Servo is one item where you get what you pay for, and in 12th you need the best. HTH
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:29 PM   #20878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The hot set up for me is Parma wheels with Trinity wheel washers and 3/8" screws.
Same here. Trinity wheel washers mean never having a wheel out of true, or one snap off from the centre. Best tuning aid out there for keeping tyres concentric to the axle!
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:29 PM   #20879
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Yes, I concur with the Futaba 9602. In fact, I could almost swear the Airtronics 94145Z and the Futaba 9602 are the same servo. They look and feel the same to me. Both have the extra ears giving you maximum mounting options.
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:32 PM   #20880
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the KO 949 is the 'crem dela crem' for 12th scale. But you usually have to slow them down... I bought a CRC T force, so with all that red i decided on a 9550 JR. It has to match you know.....

Hitec are a good cheap servo in some applications, but ill agree, not the best for something like 12th scale. Non centering is a major pain, and the speed wont leave you breatheless....
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