R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-28-2006, 02:00 PM   #20836
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

James,
Scottrick tells me that a .210 spacer will do the trick. Can you verify that as well. Lets see if we can get this taken care of right away.

Brian
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 02:08 PM   #20837
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default

Brian,

That sounds right but i'll measure it tonight and email you to confirm.

Thanks,

James
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 02:29 PM   #20838
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default Slapmaster diff

Brian,

I also tried to use your diff this past week at the IIC. I found I had to tighten the diff more that I liked to keep the spur from spinning. What lube should i use on the thrust or should I just run it without? Also, does it take a couple of runs to get everthing to seat, or should it be good to go from the package?

Thanks,
E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 02:37 PM   #20839
Tech Addict
 
RichChang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 587
Default

I am not saying you don't know how to build a diff, but a lot of factors can cause that and the thrust bearing would be the last on my list of culprits. The type of spur being used (and how used it is), the way the diff rings are prepped, the type of diff lube, and how much diff lube is used are big factors.

There is a website out there where someone has really good steps for building a good diff. I'll see if I can find it again.


-Rich

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Brian,

I also tried to use your diff this past week at the IIC. I found I had to tighten the diff more that I liked to keep the spur from spinning. What lube should i use on the thrust or should I just run it without? Also, does it take a couple of runs to get everthing to seat, or should it be good to go from the package?

Thanks,
E
RichChang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 03:04 PM   #20840
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

My diff building process is so simple, it's mind boggling. No voodoo, dead chickens or vice grips & drill presses. I use plain old notched or D rings and carbide balls. You don't want your diff rings to slip on your hubs, ever. Carbides are expensive "once". You wont buy them again for many years unless you loose them. I have this little red tub of grease that stinks that for some reason I am fond of for diff lube. It is a little sticker then Asc diff lube, but the Asc is just fine. Just a tiny dab on each ball and assemble the diff. Because there is no longer a spring in the diff, you need to sneak up on the tension a little more cautiously. Grab both tires and try to slip the spur. If it makes your thumb hurt... it's tight enough! Go run the car some. If you hear the diff squeal even once, thighten it a tick. After a few race days, you may need to tighten one more time. Why, because the carbides will be cutting a very shallow smooth groove into your plates. You want this! It adds a little more surface area to the rings for the balls to adhere to. It's likely your diff will get better feeling with age. I have two diff's with the same balls and plate that are over 3 seasons old running mod power through them and then my baby diff that is only 1 year old. All three are like glass with this process. I never work on them... unless I get spurred having fun
Brian
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 03:21 PM   #20841
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Eric,
I actually forgot to ask you if it added more static friction then you cared for. The reason I ask, is you can build up a brand new diff with all new parts and have spent some time doing it and come up with an amazing diff... that might only last a few runs. Adding the thrust bearing will add just a tiny bit of what feels like friction, but it should be barely noticable. Some guys flict their diffs in their fingers and they go SSSSSSSSSSSSSSS for a second or two. My set up less prone to doing that.

Then there some axles, like we just found out about, that have different tollerances then the industry standards I am building the thrusts for. That's why I have that picture showing that .140 measurement. If you have something that is too close to .140, then I need to change something.

Does that help?
bb
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 04:37 PM   #20842
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Rich,
Thanks, but I don't need the site. I think Brian gave some information in his post that I will try.


diff build:
-new spur (96t)
-used ceramic balls (15 races)
-new outer ceramic hub bearing
-sanded diff rings (600 grit)
-assoc. diff lube, just enough to coat the balls
-used 11/32 nut (4 races)
-stock crc3.2r axle

My diff's are smooth and are locked no slipping what so ever. I think that I'm just used to the wheels spinning a little longer. I'm not giving up on the thrust system. I think not being familiar with it and changing to it at the iic was just bad timing on my part.

So I don't need to use any type of lube on the thrust bearing, keep it dry?

Thanks,
E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 04:37 PM   #20843
Tech Adept
 
shift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
it is dependent on your speedo. if the speedo provides the power to the spektrum rx, then you are ok, if not then you will need a cap.
I will mostlikly have a tekin G10 pro but i thought about maybe a KO vfs1 and i will be using and 8t motor
shift is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 04:50 PM   #20844
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

E:
sounds like the recipe for a super diff. But you are going to forget all that stuff soon... you wont be in there very often

I do run just a little dab of grease on my thrust, but I am sure that I am wasting that little dab. Lets just say it couldn't hurt.

The guys that run out doors need to be careful about collecting dust in their thrust bearings. If you take one wrap of masking around the delrin sleave that will cover the thrust bearing, it will act as a dust sheild. You should grease the thrust out doors.
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 05:20 PM   #20845
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,122
Trader Rating: 238 (100%+)
Default

Brian,

Could you share the brand name/type of grease in that little red tub?

Scottrik
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 05:42 PM   #20846
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,947
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

It's a company called GRB Co. out of Gardnerville, Nv. Part #1050 Type R Lithium Diff Lube. At least that's what the label on the container says. Good luck finding them because I think that they are extinc. The key word is lithium and it's red. Smells a little like the oil waste tank at Schuck's.

Slapmaster Tools now has Niftech diff thrust bearing kits, #109

I would claim that I have this fancy rapid proto-typing machine out back... but I just move the cut off bit over a little
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 05:56 PM   #20847
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,570
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to teammidget lilB
Default

What is the difference between the three castors
0
-5
-10
__________________
Bryan "Lil B" Ford

U.S. Army @ Camp Humphreys, South Korea
teammidget lilB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 05:57 PM   #20848
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

0,5,and 10 degrees of castor.use the 10's bro.are you coming out to b and b next weekend?
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 06:24 PM   #20849
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,570
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to teammidget lilB
Default

mabe
__________________
Bryan "Lil B" Ford

U.S. Army @ Camp Humphreys, South Korea
teammidget lilB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2006, 06:27 PM   #20850
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

cool,should be fun.i dont have my TC back yet so its 1/12th only for me.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:45 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0