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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-27-2006, 11:24 AM   #20791
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Change your local track or change your car? Lofty expectations, even though I agree with your assertion that track barriers are not always car friendly.

That's an easy one...


I had a MS2.3 and had it mostly built up, too. I panicked and sold it before I ever raced it, because I know that I am NOT a perfect driver, and one mistake with it would have been a VERY expensive day. I love the design ideas in most of the car, but to me, a throwaway chassis for a broken suspension component is a really tough sell. Even a bolt-on delrin bottom mount would be a MASSIVE improvement in the front end safety and longevity on that chassis. Add in a removable front end, and I'd buy another one again...
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:19 PM   #20792
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HI Guys,

Hope all you 12th scalers are doing great.

Just figured I would post some info here since it seems to be the most active 12th forum on the net.

At the Vegas race, I talked to Anderson from JR/Horizon about the 3550 servo that was discontinued. I explained to him that we thought it was a really good product for 12th stock, and were unhappy to see it go away.

Long story short.

Anderson e-mailed me this morning that they(Horizon) have decided to "reactivate" the 3550 servo.

Take care.-Bruce
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:23 PM   #20793
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YEAH BRUCE!!!

I will start a shrine to you and encourage others to do likewise. I'm hoarding my little supply of 3550's (three) but you know eventually even they'll break down. GREAT news.

Scottrik
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:41 PM   #20794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedMerchant
HI Guys,

Hope all you 12th scalers are doing great.

Just figured I would post some info here since it seems to be the most active 12th forum on the net.

At the Vegas race, I talked to Anderson from JR/Horizon about the 3550 servo that was discontinued. I explained to him that we thought it was a really good product for 12th stock, and were unhappy to see it go away.

Long story short.

Anderson e-mailed me this morning that they(Horizon) have decided to "reactivate" the 3550 servo.

Take care.-Bruce
Bruce Carbone... You're my HEEEEEROOOOO!!! Check your e-mail boss!!!
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:59 PM   #20795
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Scottrik,
By all means... please share your thoughts. I do take criticism well. Not all ideas are good ones! I have made my fare share of ideas into reality that flopped.

As for the MS hystory, I only know of one customer that ripped the arm off of the chassis. I have since visited that track. I know why and how he did it.

What does happen to my chassis is these small flex cracks that appear in the surface epoxy behind the arms. A drop of thin CA makes them dissapear, but it's still unnerving. Creating a male-female mold with perfect tolerances is not an easy task. Challenging... is a good word.

I will look into the replaceable front end idea some more even though it's not the arms that break. But you need to put the racing public at ease with some options.

I own some of JR's 3650 and I am very happy with them. I also have a few 3550's. What is going on with the 3550 that it is so desirable still? Is it the power consuption?

Brian
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:18 PM   #20796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
What is going on with the 3550 that it is so desirable still? Is it the power consuption?
I just like the 3550 because for me they are a known quantity--I know I can depend on them to perform how I want. I've not had that with some other servos I've tried. Probably becoming a reactionary old phart who just doesn't like to change.

I'm not big on digital servos...for me. I slow my 3550's down, last thing I need is something even faster!

Scottrik
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:30 PM   #20797
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Brian,

When I first saw your car, I said to myslf.. I gotta get one of those to try out. I thought you would have to have some kind of chassis replacement program if the arms did break. I could have handled some kind of a discount program, or something, but after talking to either you or a represtative of your company at the Snowbirds, the answer was.. full retail if I broke an arm, and was quickly told that I wouldnt break an arm. But there is no way I would buy your car if I had to buy a new chassis becuase of a broken arm. That means I need to have an extra chassis as a spare. The 2.3 is a work of art and I drool over it whenever I see a picture of one.... this is not way a flame oir slam.. just my observations.....

BTW, my diff is the envy at the track, and I tell them .. slapmaster thrust....
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Old 09-27-2006, 01:58 PM   #20798
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I have a battery question guys. Do most people use connectors between the ESC and batts or do you just solder the leads to the little battery post deals? I was just a little confused because I was reading about fusion batteries and how the cells are better because of the soldering process or whatever, but then they have the battery posts that you solder to your esc every single time you change the battery. That seems kind of silly since the whole point is to not get the cells hot while soldering. Am I missing something here? Also, if I wanted to use some sort of connector, I would have to solder it onto the cell which again deffeats the whole purpose of paying for a specail soldering technique. Thanks.
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Old 09-27-2006, 02:07 PM   #20799
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The chassis are flat out a pain in the rear to make. They are all laid by hand, cut by hand, and finished by hand. It's a labor of love and I never claimed to be in the right frame of mind. I would be much better off to out source the cutting, but I have yet to find someone capable of 3-D cutting. Flat plate is cake. If I could out source the labor, I would be able to not feel so bad about handing out a discount. At this point, I only sponsor one driver. I know that my market is small. It will only appeal to a small crowd.

But you got to addmit.... they are damn cool to look at in this day and age of flat cars we've been used to seeing for over 3 decades!

I did put one of the cars 6th in the A at carpet nat's last March. I should have filled the last spot on the podium, but I was left out of the drivers meeting explaining the "group hug" we were going to have in turn 3. I need to do more electric racing. I missed the opportunity to go to LV last week. I am looking at Snowbirds again this year. I have too much family stuff going on during Thanksgiving to pull off Cleveland.

The thrusts bearings really are something that I am proud of. I do thank everyone for all their support!!! I found that I forget about working on the diff anymore. One person asked what diff rings I use. I told them I have not purchased any in over 3 years because I don't wear them out. (I think they are D rings).
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Old 09-27-2006, 02:53 PM   #20800
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slapmaster6000 do you have a link or website to view some stuff ?
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Old 09-27-2006, 02:58 PM   #20801
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www.slapmastertools.com

Getting into 12th scale kevin?

-James
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:03 PM   #20802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
I have a battery question guys. Do most people use connectors between the ESC and batts or do you just solder the leads to the little battery post deals? I was just a little confused because I was reading about fusion batteries and how the cells are better because of the soldering process or whatever, but then they have the battery posts that you solder to your esc every single time you change the battery. That seems kind of silly since the whole point is to not get the cells hot while soldering. Am I missing something here? Also, if I wanted to use some sort of connector, I would have to solder it onto the cell which again deffeats the whole purpose of paying for a specail soldering technique. Thanks.
Yes, but the battery does not get very hot when you solder the wire to the battery bar end that is away from the battery itself. At least not as hot as the battery needs to get for solder to melt on it.
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:08 PM   #20803
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James,

Running a CRC 3.2r right now. We have a new carpet track and race it at Socal as well. Its fun and fast.

Kevin Smith
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:59 PM   #20804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Yes, but the battery does not get very hot when you solder the wire to the battery bar end that is away from the battery itself. At least not as hot as the battery needs to get for solder to melt on it.
Gotcha. That makes sense then.

Is it really a big difference going with the fusion ones vs. other matchers/builders? I need to get a new pack or two down the road sometime and someone at my track recommended the Fusion packs. What do you guys use?
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:12 PM   #20805
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Hi guys, as a newcomer to 1/12th i was hoping someone could help me out?

I have bought a Trinity Switchblade Spashett Edition and was wondering if anyone knew where i could find instruction manuals, set-ups and spares for it.

I've searched about and have come up with nothing, am i wasting my time with this car?
Feedback appreciated

Matt
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