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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-25-2006, 10:31 PM   #20761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Excellent...and last question. How often do you tear them down and rebuild?
If by rebuild you mean clean them and replace the fluid, I like to do it every race day, but I have to admit that i don't always do it. If you let them go too long they may feel ok but will get dry and not be consistant.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:53 PM   #20762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedigler
Hey guys. Where is a good place to order JACO tires for a good price? Also what is a good combo for a tight small track running stock and a CRC carpet knife 3.2

Thanks in advance

THE DIGLER
We also sell them. I would try tire combos the others are running and if there is something to work on, explain it here for a fast response.....
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:29 AM   #20763
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Hi all, i guess this was not important enough or noone knew the answer so I will post it again. Next message has some pic of the scope printout of the voltages I am seeing.


I am in desperate need of a solution to a huge glitch under acceleration in my 12th scale car.

I am running a GT7 with the cap and a Novak XXL and a Futaba Mini servo.

Under hard acceleration (0 throttle to full), the steerin is lost. I was thinking of going with either a 1/2AAA 300mA or 1/3AAA 150mA packs. The question becomes do I have enough time to recharge between heats if we go every 30 mins or so?

Second question, if I install this rx pack and remove the esc Positive lead going to the rx, will the rx pack at 300mA or 150mA have enough energy to drive the servo for an 8 min run?

It would sure be nice to have the ESC Positive lead be able to keep the pack up to voltage!
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:34 AM   #20764
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Three files
1. Vbat across GT7 cap
2. Vbat at Novak XXL rx without cap
3. Vbat at Novak XXL rx with 6600uF cap
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-vbat-input-gt7.jpg   1/12 forum-vbat-input-rx-6600uf-cap.jpg   1/12 forum-vbat-input-rx-without-6600uf-cap.jpg  
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:59 AM   #20765
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Hi,

In reality, you should not need a receiver pack. I would focus on trying to figure out what is causing the issue first. What model Futaba servo are you using?

In general you can use the receiver cells you have listed and you should have time to recharge the pack between heats. Most folks either wire up 5 (analog servos) or 6 cells (digital servos) receiver packs and they last the 8 minutes.

-Rich
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:21 AM   #20766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Galdo
We also sell them. I would try tire combos the others are running and if there is something to work on, explain it here for a fast response.....
I would but the carpet season has not started and as far as I know they have only run TC there before... Most I know is that its older grey carpet and its a tight course.

Thanks for the help,
THE DIGLER
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:51 AM   #20767
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What motor and battery are you running? Do you regain control after the motor gets up to speed? does it do it on the bench too or is it only on the track? Does it happen every time or just sometimes? Have you rebuilt the motor and checked if the motor caps are in good shape?

Radio/power problems are tough to diagnose not in person, but we'll do the best we can to help. Using a receiver pack couldn't hurt, but may be masking a larger problem. Either size pack will last fine for an 8 minute run, and you can recharge them at .5 amps or so, so they will recharge in 30 minutes.

-James

Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all, i guess this was not important enough or noone knew the answer so I will post it again. Next message has some pic of the scope printout of the voltages I am seeing.


I am in desperate need of a solution to a huge glitch under acceleration in my 12th scale car.

I am running a GT7 with the cap and a Novak XXL and a Futaba Mini servo.

Under hard acceleration (0 throttle to full), the steerin is lost. I was thinking of going with either a 1/2AAA 300mA or 1/3AAA 150mA packs. The question becomes do I have enough time to recharge between heats if we go every 30 mins or so?

Second question, if I install this rx pack and remove the esc Positive lead going to the rx, will the rx pack at 300mA or 150mA have enough energy to drive the servo for an 8 min run?

It would sure be nice to have the ESC Positive lead be able to keep the pack up to voltage!
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:57 AM   #20768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all, i guess this was not important enough or noone knew the answer so I will post it again. Next message has some pic of the scope printout of the voltages I am seeing.


I am in desperate need of a solution to a huge glitch under acceleration in my 12th scale car.

I am running a GT7 with the cap and a Novak XXL and a Futaba Mini servo.

Under hard acceleration (0 throttle to full), the steerin is lost. I was thinking of going with either a 1/2AAA 300mA or 1/3AAA 150mA packs. The question becomes do I have enough time to recharge between heats if we go every 30 mins or so?

Second question, if I install this rx pack and remove the esc Positive lead going to the rx, will the rx pack at 300mA or 150mA have enough energy to drive the servo for an 8 min run?

It would sure be nice to have the ESC Positive lead be able to keep the pack up to voltage!
As has been stated, you shouldn't need a reciever pack, but putting one on will help you diagnose your problem. A 150ma pack will power the reciever and servo for 8 min and more just fine. If you charge it at .3 to .5 amps there will be plenty of time to charge between heats. You don't need to remove the power wire from the esc to the reciever, it is not powered up with the esc switch off (tape off or remove the switch) The reciever pack will power the servo, reciever and the control cirquit of the esc, and has plenty of power to do that.

You didn't state what type of main batteries you are using or what motor, that could give a clue. You might also try a different profile on the speed control, a stock motor setting with a mod motor could cause a big amperage drain on acceleration and lower the voltage to the reciever and servo.
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Old 09-26-2006, 11:18 AM   #20769
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Default Las Vegas Race Info

Where can I get info on the results of the Las Vegas race this past week?
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Old 09-26-2006, 11:34 AM   #20770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Where can I get info on the results of the Las Vegas race this past week?
http://www.rctech.net/iicresults/results.php
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Old 09-26-2006, 11:38 AM   #20771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all, i guess this was not important enough or noone knew the answer so I will post it again. Next message has some pic of the scope printout of the voltages I am seeing.


I am in desperate need of a solution to a huge glitch under acceleration in my 12th scale car.

I am running a GT7 with the cap and a Novak XXL and a Futaba Mini servo.

Under hard acceleration (0 throttle to full), the steerin is lost. I was thinking of going with either a 1/2AAA 300mA or 1/3AAA 150mA packs. The question becomes do I have enough time to recharge between heats if we go every 30 mins or so?
You may have already checked this, but I'll make the statement anyway. Make sure your receivers antenna wire is not touching the graphite chassis!
I had a similar problem when I first started with 12 scale. Once I moved the antenna wire, the problem was gone.
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Old 09-26-2006, 04:41 PM   #20772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedigler
I would but the carpet season has not started and as far as I know they have only run TC there before... Most I know is that its older grey carpet and its a tight course.

Thanks for the help,
THE DIGLER

I did not read the other posts to see if anyone answered you....I would start off with purple and pink.
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:12 PM   #20773
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This may have been asked before but does anyone make a brushless system designed for 12th scale cars specifically or is everyone using the same stuff the touring car guys are using?
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:22 PM   #20774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
This may have been asked before but does anyone make a brushless system designed for 12th scale cars specifically or is everyone using the same stuff the touring car guys are using?
Well...since 1/12 have been around, oh, about 20 years longer than TC I prefer to think of the situation as the touring car guys are using the same stuff WE'RE using. Brushed motors are fundamentally the same for both applications.

Then again, back in the day (1200SC battery day...) there WERE special motors for 1/12 cars with teeny little brushes and springs. I've still got a couple Trinity motors like that. They had to do some crazy stuff like that to get 8 minutes out of those batteries. And now guys STILL manage to dump 4200's...3-1/2 times more capacity!!

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Old 09-26-2006, 07:29 PM   #20775
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Thanks for the info, Scott. BTW - What car do you drive? I was looking at the speedmerchant car. Any comments?
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