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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-24-2006, 07:31 AM   #20731
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for the 12L4 Conversion add:

Rug Rat
Quad 12
Hara

Ok well, darn near every car except a Corally!
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Old 09-24-2006, 09:02 AM   #20732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
What common speedos don't require a spektrum cap to avoid glitching with a spektrum receiver? I have the pro M8 set up and was glitching today with a Q1 till I put the cap on. I'd rather not run a cap and was wondering if there were any esc's that didn't require them for the BEC.
You could also try the spektrum pro receiver which has a lower voltage requirement. I used my spektrum standard rx with a GTB brushless and KO digital servo with no problems though.
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:43 AM   #20733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
Lots, not in any order:

BMI
Hyperform
CRC
Diggity Design
Speed Merchant
Od Purple OD12

Pretty sure there a few more that I have missed.
Darkside Motorsports. We sell our Mx2 as both a complete kit as well as a conversion kit
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:51 AM   #20734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedigler
question for you guys. I got the Futaba S9602 servo and a Kimbrough servo saver # 114. Problem is the screw to screw it to the servo is too short and will not fit in the hole in the servo saver. Do I have the wrong servo saver or is there somewhere I can get a longer screw?

Thanks in advance,
THE DIGLER
mcmastercarr.com sells 2.5mm screws in different lenghts; 8mm to 16mm, I believe.
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Old 09-24-2006, 12:31 PM   #20735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucknuts
You could also try the spektrum pro receiver which has a lower voltage requirement. I used my spektrum standard rx with a GTB brushless and KO digital servo with no problems though.

I am using the pro system. I am not sure whether my 1/12 servo is digital or not. Id have to check. I think I am jusut going to use the caps as the only escs that dont require a cap for ther eceiver require a cap forthemselves, so you have a cap on the car somewhere. Thanks for the input about the GTX
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:28 PM   #20736
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Thanks guys for the info. I'll check it out

THE DIGLER
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:57 PM   #20737
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Thanks Guys, But I'd like to know more about the IRS Rug Rat,
Does it have a Damper plate?
What are the springs for?
Where does the Servo mount I see no Holes for it?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:33 PM   #20738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savageguy
Thanks Guys, But I'd like to know more about the IRS Rug Rat,
Does it have a Damper plate?
What are the springs for?
Where does the Servo mount I see no Holes for it?

Thanks in advance
The Rug Rat uses a tweak plate system that incorporates springs instead of using the damper plate to adjust and control tweak. The damper plate setup has replaced with dampening tubes that providing dampening and are far more consistent than a damper plate setup. Also the The reason why you no servo mounting holes is because you have to mount the servo flat onto the chassis.
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:35 PM   #20739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savageguy
Thanks Guys, But I'd like to know more about the IRS Rug Rat,
Does it have a Damper plate?
What are the springs for?
Where does the Servo mount I see no Holes for it?

Thanks in advance
you looking at getting a conversion kit ? why is it?
what do you not like about your L4?
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:48 PM   #20740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hlj
you looking at getting a conversion kit ? why is it?
what do you not like about your L4?
Well the bottom of the chassis on my l4 is pretty scratched and soon i will ned a new one, so i thought rather than getting a new chassis why not get a conversion kit.

Thanks for the information RCBAM
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:47 AM   #20741
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Anyone running the K-19 turn? Is it any good for 1/12th scale? What brush and spring and roll-out? Thanks MK
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:02 AM   #20742
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Is there any special technique to building damper tubes?
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:04 PM   #20743
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For dampner tubes.....I run green slime on them.

I have run the Komodo Dragon based 19t in 1/12th scale and its great. It does require alot of attention, cutting and new brushes every 2 runs. I run red/red springs and F brushes from EA Motorsports.
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:31 PM   #20744
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Default Receiver pack for 19t

Hi all

I am in desperate need of a solution to a huge glitch under acceleration in my 12th scale car.

I am running a GT7 with the cap and a Novak XXL and a Futaba Mini servo.

Under hard acceleration (0 throttle to full), the steerin is lost. I was thinking of going with either a 1/2AAA 300mA or 1/3AAA 150mA packs. The question becomes do I have enough time to recharge between heats if we go every 30 mins or so?

Second question, if I install this rx pack and remove the esc Positive lead going to the rx, will the rx pack at 300mA or 150mA have enough energy to drive the servo for an 8 min run?

It would sure be nice to have the ESC Positive lead be able to keep the pack up to voltage!

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:36 PM   #20745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbckevin
For dampner tubes.....I run green slime on them.
Not looking for what to put in them...but how to build them with your lube of choice.
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