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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-22-2006, 03:20 PM   #20701
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G Ace:
What about the prototype pod, and the narrow chassis?
Asked about the new front suspension on the company website, forum for 1/12 scale, somehow the post was removed. Thanks for keeping us up to date on the new stuff. Frank and company are always striving to give us the best!
Is a new car in the works? Inquiring minds want to know......
Carpet season is rapidly approaching and I need a car and don't want to buy now only to have to replace it before the Snowbirds. I realize that the 3.2 is an excellent car but I am anal about having the "latest and greatest" .
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Old 09-22-2006, 04:25 PM   #20702
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Hey all, I really want to get into 12th scale and I need a ton of help. Can you guys please point me to where I need to go to ge started. Ie books web sites stuff like that.
Thanks
Sean
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Old 09-22-2006, 04:34 PM   #20703
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Here's a picture of Mike Haynes's Darkside Motorsports Mx2 1/12 road course chassis at the 2006 IIC, thanks to RC50.com. Complete chassis kits are now available from Darkside Motorsports for $225. Just add electronics, tires and a body. Servo saver included!
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:10 PM   #20704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truggy1
Hey all, I really want to get into 12th scale and I need a ton of help. Can you guys please point me to where I need to go to ge started. Ie books web sites stuff like that.
Thanks
Sean
Your in the right place man. I just got into as well and it's a blast. 12th scale is cool becuase every car out there is legit and you really cant go wrong with any of them. It just comes down to personal preference and opinion more than anything. Have fun with it. 1/12 are little bullets.
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:27 PM   #20705
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hanknmorgan thanks man! I couldn't get over how affordable the cars are too!!! It just looks like a ton of fun and I really need to start reading up on it. Any good web site to hit to learn how to set the cars up and the principles behind the car.
Thanks for the help guys,
Sean
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:35 PM   #20706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Awesome. And have fun racing. Try not to beat it up too bad.


I have a couple of questions about bodies actually. First of all, which 1/12 body is the most durable. (Thickest Lexan) I am a new driver, and I suck, so I want something that will not crack easily.

Also, is there anywhere that has a listing with pictures of all the avialable 1/12 bodies. I have really only seem like 3 or 4. Protoform and Parma. What are my other options. I would like to find something that is both durable and looks like a real car. Thanks.
Anyone have any input on the body situataion?
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Old 09-22-2006, 08:50 PM   #20707
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Try using "1/12 body" in the search section at either Tower Hobbies or Stormer Hobbies.
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:13 PM   #20708
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can somebody tell me why in-line axles are no good for 12h scale chassis'?
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Old 09-23-2006, 12:50 AM   #20709
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Can someone tell me what conversion ktis are avalable for the L4?
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Old 09-23-2006, 01:43 AM   #20710
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A question for the 12th scale experts .... I am racing in Australia and our National 12th scale meet is being held on an 8th scale track (site of the recently finished 200mm Nitro Worlds). Although the track will be shortened it will still be a very open track.

The question is what brushed motor will cope with the longer straights associated with this type of track. In the old days of offroad a quad motor was always good for winding out over longer straights .. better than even doubles or triples. Would a quad be worth trying? And if soi what wind? Does anyone make low turn quad motors? Say an 8 quad. If so who winds these motors.

I need an old time motor winder (where is Erik Soderquist these days )
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:28 AM   #20711
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just a quick question what motor and speedy is everyone running
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Old 09-23-2006, 03:40 AM   #20712
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Cannon,
Dude I like the bumpers.

Whether you use a single, double or a triple is really a lot up to the winders (style) way of making motors.
A single from brand A doesn't need to compare at all to brand B f.i.
On the whole the dub, and then trip, etc... makes the motor slightly less twitchy/agressive and more economicall
But with nowadays batts, that's not an issue any more.
As for the lower winds below 10t it is scarcely made a doub.
usually these are singles for their raw power.
Too hot too handle go a wind higher/more.....

Probably an 8t would be fine. if in doubt a solid 10t will be great.

Last edited by PizzaDude; 09-24-2006 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 09-23-2006, 08:02 AM   #20713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truggy1
hanknmorgan thanks man! I couldn't get over how affordable the cars are too!!! It just looks like a ton of fun and I really need to start reading up on it. Any good web site to hit to learn how to set the cars up and the principles behind the car.
Thanks for the help guys,
Sean
This should help
http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/
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Old 09-23-2006, 08:04 AM   #20714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teammediocre
Thanks team!
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Old 09-23-2006, 09:03 AM   #20715
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Tried my hand last night at some 12th action for the first time ever, running a second-hand CEFX which I think is one of the first gen models.

Had a base set-up to work with and all I can say is, AWESOME.
I have never known such grip, can't beleive what fun I have been missing out on for the last 4 years.

The net result of all my enjoyment was a big win with 3 laps in-hand over second!
This style of racing is def to my liking and what a great bunch of people.
Looking forward to next week!
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